Recent content by Joninct

Wanted to update on this. I narrowed it down to the seat switch. I forgot to mention that I had an issue with the "universal" seat snapping screws that the previous owner had installed. I had to fabricate a new bracket and it appears that there is a slight rocking motion in the track which is...

Just for the record, I know how to read a gas gauge. But it's obviously not working if it reads half full when its empty! I'll check filters and the rest and report back.

Damn. Was hoping it was simple. May still be I hope. I'll start from the tank and work my way forward. Thanks.

I searched which is why I think this may be my issue but I'm looking for clarification. The other day I ran out of fuel in my bx. I filled it up and since doing so, it wants to stall out quite often. At first it would do it as soon as I engaged the transmission after hiccuping a few times it...

OK I found a small bottle of the Loctite and ordered it. @$20shipped. I am assuming that I put some in and around the "hole" and then bolt everything together and let it sit for 24hrs?

Hmmm..$206.82 is actually less than I thought it would be. It's good to know should I decide to go that route. I will google a smaller bottle of the "stuff" and see how that pans out first. I'll let y'all know my findings. Thanks!

Ah ok I see what you mean. I enjoying learning new things! It can't hurt to try it right? I just wonder if, after spending $50 if I will ever use the bottle again... The washer idea was suggested by the hardware store guy where I went to buy new castle nuts. It seemed like an ok idea but now...

I have never used one. Is this something you would use after adding new metal like with a welder? The bottom of the taper seems fine. It is the top portion which has the most damage. Update- The Loctite I was speaking of is only available in the $50 size. The smaller tube was a different product.

So it was suggested to me today to possibly tack weld on a fenderwasher to the top of the hub arm as a means of reducing the slop. It is not as clean a fix as I would like but on paper it seems like it may work? Any others want to chime in on this? The loctite stuff is available in a 1oz size...

some pictures

SUCCESS!!!!! I was able to cut a lot of the nut off with an angle grinder. Then pried and chiseled off the remainder. I'm soaked but relieved. There is noticeable play in the hub though. I took some pictures and will try and upload them tonight. I will look into that loctite product. Many many...

Yes. Very hard to drill. Was very difficult to cut even using diamond coated saw blade. Not enough meat left to grab with vise grips. I've been trying that. I may try and cut as much as possible off the nut and see where that gets me.

Yes yes. Sorry the stud is tapered. I was exhausted and not making sense. I did use an impact but even after whacking the stud down it still spun possibly because of the elongated hole. I will try the angle grinder approach. Of course now it's raining cats and dogs. I'm not sure how I am gonna...

#80. The tie rod end part#70 I cut off just above the hub flange. So their is literally only 1/16" of material left. Vise grips keep popping off. I just heated it up again until it was red hot. Let it cool and when I can get the vise grips to hold I can tighten it ever so slightly and loosen...

It gets worse. I went to my friends shop and borrowed his wrenches. I was able to get it off thankfully. Now the issue is that the castle nut is totally seized on the cut off portion on the hub. It's my fault but I had no other option because there is no way to get a hold of the shaft and loosen...