Recent content by Fedup

First thing I would check would be will it start with the PTO on? There is undoubtedly a PTO switch somewhere near the lever. That switch would be part of the safety start interrupt circuit as well as affecting the lights on dash display. There may some overlap in the circuits involved...

You're getting oil out of the breather tube hoses on top of the clutch housing? If that's the case it's probably not an oil foaming issue. More likely oil leaking into the clutch housing from the transmission, then getting slung around by the flywheel and forced out the vent tube. At least...

Tractor Data doesn't list the M9960D. Closest they show is M9960HD. That would be 4WD open station tractor with 8 speed transmission. Could that be what you have? Having been out of the "dealership" loop for some time now (last place I was employed the shop rate was like $65/hr.) so that goes...

That cylinder comment is only partially correct. The cylinders are actually full of oil nearly all the time. The volume of oil on rod end of each cylinder is slightly less tan on the base end, true, but not enough to make a noticeable difference on the dipstick. When loader "is on the floor"...

Only problem here is they have been closed for three or four years.

The low pressure switch is on the high side. That side should never be below 30 or so PSI. If static pressure is at 30 or less the system should not be operating.

Your static pressure is about right, certainly not low. The pressure differential in the system is the primary job of the expansion valve. The pressures you're seeing now tell me your valve isn't closing down quite enough while in operation. Low side pressure is too high, the high side pressure...

In my experience your pressures are way off. I've rarely seen a system (R134A) run properly at over 25 PSI on the low side. I usually get get good results between 15 and 20 on a hot day. Your high side seems way low to me. I'd expect 150 to maybe near 300 on a hot day, particularly so on...

If he jacked it and couldn't turn the wheel, how does that translate to a smashed hydraulic line?

I would revisit the "rock stuck under it for a bit" experience for a possible related issue there. The "brake pedals at different angles" observation brings up the chance that one (or more) of the rods may be bent and one of the brakes is being partially applied? Might be worthwhile to pull some...

You might also consider just replacing the cover. Doesn't look like all that big a project. Probably no more than all the "patch" attempts you're planning. https://www.colemanequip.com/parts/details/KubotaParts/Transmission-Rear-Cover/K2581-11212/

Can you replace the entire gearbox? Probably, but you still have get the existing gearbox off. Will the shafts be the same (other than the shear bolt size) on both ends of the two gearboxes? Will the frame mounting bolt size and pattern match between the gearboxes? Until you take this one all...

I would say it's salvageable, but the gear teeth are a long way from "new condition". You can clean and dry the gears, then using a hand grinder knock the high spots off the edges of the teeth and they will probably survive a few more acres. Take the hog nose apart and see what the hidden parts...

You know it has to have at least SOME free play. If that is minimal already and it still won't fully release with pedal fully down, the problem is deeper than simple adjustment.

Doesn't have to be a cheap valve. I've seen the same problem with Kubota valves and couplers. A male end with a pipe plug threaded into it installed in the couplers works too.