Recent content by Cryptohorse

Thanks for the advice and those drawings. Very helpful. I'm now able to use the tractor for moving hay bales around which was my major task. The guy who did my injector clean and repair said that they had a lot of junk/moisture in them and expected that the injector pump would be equally dirty...

Replaced the O-rings and now there is no fuel leak from the delivery valve housings. But I think I have a problem with the governor as I can't easily start without setting the speed control lever to high speed. Once started it runs OK but won't idle very well. I recall having to undo the fuel...

Could not find the torque for the delivery valve hosing in the workshop manual so I used the torque for injectors instead. 22 to 36 ft lbs. Think I used 30 ft lbs. Refer fuel system specs page 7-1. Do you have a better reference?

Thanks for the part number for the O-rings. I have already replaced the seals. Since they have to sit flush with the top of the delivery valve to make a good seal is there any procedure required to ensure that the seal gasket and its delivery valve are perfectly matched? I just replaced the...

Finally did a piston replacement on my B7100. Its sort of going again but I've noticed that fuel is leaking from the fuel pump connections to the injectors. It wasn't happening before the rebuild. Upon inspection it looks as if the O-rings on the connectors are broken or very hard and need...

I've got a friend who builds performance diesels for boats. He's going to check out all the rebuild requirements. Who would you recommend for parts? Not keen on paying Kubota dealer prices.

Got the pistons out. Middle one has a cracked top edge. Others seem OK. I'll have to get a rebuild kit. Plenty online but no idea who is reliable. Any recommendations for a suitable supplier? I'm in Australia but most stuff seem to come from Asia or the USA.

I found it was a big help when I removed the brackets securing the FEL frame to the main chassis. Suddenly the wheels were able to move forward :-). Works really well when you get rid of things in the way.

I am thinking and looking. I have no one to help so will have to get the wheels out on my own. Disappointing that they seem so well attached to the bottom of the motor. Maybe the trick would be to tap the exposed axle from above with a crowbar on either side to see if that will encourage the...

I managed to get the link removal tool after a 90 minute round trip. I've now removed the drag link so the front wheels can be detached. From the description above it seems that the front wheels are supposed to be rolled away from under the engine/clutch assembly which is still firmly attached...

I don't have the drag link removal tool that Kubota mention in their WSM. My Kubota dealer in Australia doesn't have them. Is there any quick fix for this? Without removing the drag link I can't separate the front wheels.

I have actually dismantled most of the tractor so many of the tasks you describe are done already. A few questions if I may. What do you call the frame and how is it possible to roll it out from under the engine? If you do this :- "Remove the bolts attaching the motor to the frame. Remove...

I think my problem might be that I have the engine secured vertically by the block and tackle for fear that it will fall through the frame and hit the concrete. From what you are saying the frame will prevent the engine from falling but will allow it to slide towards the front of the tractor...

Got a blown piston which I tried to get at via the oil pan without success. I'm now trying to pull the engine out the normal way not by splitting the tractor but by disconnecting everything attached to it and then lifting it out with a block and tackle so it can be worked on a workshop bench...

Now I'm really stuck. Got all the oil pan bolts out but the pan itself is completely unmoveable. Is there any special way to loosen it? Seems to be stuck solid.