Recent content by cliffboyer

That engine, with respect to a G5200 mower, is tuned at about 14hp. It runs a hydro trans through a propeller shaft and either a 44'' or 48'' deck from belt driven PTO. I have almost no experience with ZTR type mowers, but thinking the d600 might be underpowered.

Have successfully welded several plastic items with a Weller soldering gun with a broad flat tip. A zip tie works well as filler material.

Brilliant idea! Maybe from a Craftsman mower?

Looks like a fun project. I think you got a good deal. Just the fact you found one that isn't beat to pieces or half-ass repaired is a bonus. I agree, freezing water caused the bulges. There's an opening some where. Also interesting the ends of those two cylinders are very rusted. Makes me...

Sold today.

Absolutely, I agree with that assessment as well. I carry the belief that being in a more rural setting, heavily into farming crops, that the ORD is of a lower Bio content. Could be off-base with that thinking. But hey, ignorance is bliss at times!

Not to high-jack OP thread, but you ask a fair question. Supporting evidence....none really. That advice was given by a dealer that sells & maintains well built tractors. They been around a long time too, probably seen a lot of fuel related issues, and get a lot of related bulletins from...

Agreed, probably to early to say if an issue. Fuel quality is important. You running pump diesel from local truck stop or ORD? My dealer advised to stay away from pump diesel. Too much bio-crap in it. Clogs up DPF faster, making REGENS more frequent.

I think I'm 3rd owner of my mower, and to best of my knowledge it has not been modified. I can start the engine and NOT be in the seat, and I can dismount from the seat with engine running so long as PTO is not engaged. The moment I lift off seat with PTO on, RPMs start falling off...

Smokeless, good to hear you are it getting sorted out. Bruce, you are absolutely correct in that none of the electrical switches will kill the engine, and act as you describe. And bypassing would have minimal influence on operational safety, so long as one didn't attempt to start with PTO...

See if this helps. I remember seeing two switches in the schematic. Solenoid power goes thru both switches, but second switch might only be present if a gear drive (switch on clutch pedal). As you know, these must be closed for tractor to start. You are correct, the seat actuated cable kills...

Best bet is to remove battery and the two metal screens (directly under the steering wheel & one where PTO lever is). This will grant you access to most everything in the dash. Rather tight confines, but workable. As I recall, there are two safety interlock switches. One is on the PTO lever...

Unfortunately they are a must have item in this age. I have a cheapie ($35) that has its issues, but has decent video quality and does the job. Biggest lessons I learned with the cheapie: I don't need a built-in screen for viewing, and be sure it doesn't use proprietary software for...

Any of the lower cost (<$100) units (Mastech, UNI-T, Amprobe, etc) are fine for general use. Auto-range vs manual select are a personal preference. Manual ones do tend to keep you focused more on what task you are performing. But figure on buying a good set of leads. Most of the budget...

Check out this thread. I posted a few replies with some pics & some thoughts. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/cruise-control-on-l2501.39914/#post-338559