Recent content by bevis

I put the fender back on yesterday afternoon and mowed with it for about 30 to 45 mins. The temp, shot with a temp gun, was about 195 to 200 at the head / rad / water neck. Thats seems ok considering that the temp here was in the 90's. No bogging or smoking. The fuse did not blow. It seems that...

Well so far i have not found the problem but the problem is gone so far. I replaced the fuse and it blew once again. I then started chasing the wiring back and could not find anything amiss . I put in a new fuse and turned on the key. The fuel pump runs and pulls less than 2 amps. So blowing a...

3. how can I test if the fuel overflow system is working? Is it possible to have a blockage and not bypass fuel back to tank? Thus causing fuel leaks. Can I just blow air through tubes and injectors back to tank? I just didi this as i thought that it may be blocked. I took the body off and...

We are not talking about a pump wiring fuse or i would have already replaced the wiring. We are talking about a 10 amp main fuse that terminates on the AC terminal of the ignition switch. In that circuit are also the headlamps / fuel pump / oil pressure light and the hour & temp meter. Wish it...

Ok after some tbl shooting and removing the body ( wow, access finally ) i find that the pump is not working ( no voltage to it ). I go straight to the battery and pump and bypass work fine. I start looking for the fuse i see on the schematic. I find it blown. Put in a new fuse and start...

its electric. great idea. thanks

I now have all 3 manuals. The user / G5200 WSM and the D600 WSM. I now see a lot i didn't understand. I need to verify that the return system from the injectors is not plugged. I think that is going to be step 1. It looks like something has been repaired on the return side as you can see from...

you are correct about the coupling separation but that will not eliminate the load placed on the motor from pulling the weight of the tractor and the load put on it by the HST during driving . But it will be a good for a static test. Is this a good product ...

If i remember correctly, when you get the 2 bolts out of the driveshaft flange, there is not enough room to clear the fiberglass flange on the front of the pump to pull the shaft out of the rubber coupler in the back of the crank.

is there any special procedure for pulling the injectors ?

I will see if the ports are tight, thats an easy enough test. So issue that the next step, if the ports are tight, would be replace all 3 injectors ? Is there any special procedures for changing the injectors or are they just like a car injector ?

also after looking at it more this morning, it appears that the fuel system is open loop and not a dead head system. i see what appears to be a return line to the tank. i think i should make sure that its not obstructed. Is that what I'm seeing ? An open loop system ?

just for my education, how is the timing changed, advance or retard ? Also I'm told that its just a coincidence but all this all started right after i cleaned the sump screen. Right after i put it back in with new Orings, i started the motor to check for leaks and thats when the coupling...

please get the specs and i'll check the valve lash. i have no idea what it should be or how to go about it. thanks

i read a thread on here somewhere that was talking about changing injector timing. I have no idea if someone has messed with that in the past or not. I also suspect that no chemical that you put in the fuel will be aggressive enough to address the injectors. don't you have to be real careful...