Recent content by ADDfarmer

OK, thanks for helping to educate me:D I ended up bolting the loader valve back on as I discovered that the original bolts worked themselves out rather than shearing off (yes, that probably wouldn't have been hard to do). So... I'll continue with my procrastination (I can't really have the...

Poked around and found my seals. Only have the top dust seals. So... Will be ordering the seal kit. Wondering, however, whether the detent kits would be needed as well: 020 and 070 (not sure why they're different). Thanks for the tip on rotating the spools. Not real sharp on any of this...

Yeah, saw the manual on the loader. It's still not clear, though looking again they do seem to show the valve coming out the bottom (Page 21). Some of the issue is that they have alphanumeric indexing on some of the parts but these don't show up in the parts list (so I really don't know what...

Figured that this thread was appropriate for tagging on to... The seals on my valves have been leaking at the top of the block for a while now I had the valve body attaching bolts break (or fall out- not sure yet) so it looks like I'll take the time to finally fix the leaks: I've had seals...

OK, success! I used a 3/8" swivel socket through the bottom opening: I had to run out and buy one. It was a bit touchy to get enough torque on things w/o slipping and rounding the bolt head. While a bit tricky getting that bolt out, it was nowhere as tough as getting it back in! Trying to...

I'd attempted to add a picture but neither the picture or the link materialized. Trying again... If the image doesn't attach to this post then here's a link to it: https://www.dropbox.com/s/h9ovymi2daq7lok/P1100106.JPG

Thanks for including the diagram. I have removed the pipe that is listed as #080. What I am unable to figure out is how to go about removing the bolt on the other pipe (you have that highlighted- it's #040). I would prefer to not have to take the entire tractor apart in order to get that pipe...

Not sure if I'm identifying things correctly so here are the part numbers: Pipe: 6C150-1350 Hose: 6C070-13190 Those end up connecting to: Pipe: 6C070-13160 (exposed pipe that wraps down around the fitler on the left side)

Was working in some heavy brush and managed to get the pump's return(?) line hose popped off the return(?) line pipe. I have to wonder whether this has EVER happened to anyone else, EVER... Anyone have any ideas on how I can get these reconnected? The hose is "L" shaped and I cannot aim it...

The OPC is functioning except to deliver the right voltage to the fuel shutoff relay. So... rather than shell out $200+ dollars for a new OPC I decided to bypass the OPC for the switching power to the fuel shutoff solenoid relay. I cut the white/blue wire to the fuel shutoff solenoid relay and...

Wolfman, thanks for the kind offer. I think that I am able to do the repairs on the Bosch relays- they can be opened; issue/concern is with the light wire on the coil and subjecting the heat from the soldering iron (I've got experience with soldering though). OK... I ran tests this morning and...

Great! I can't wait for more electrical fun! :rolleyes: Actually, I should probably re-check the fuses! My conundrum started because I'd had lost my dash lights and it wouldn't start. The new improperly wired light relays resulted in blowing the 5amp and 10amp(? dash) fuses. And at first I...

After all my headaches I've learned a bit more about relays. It seems that the use of diodes is more pervasive than not. The reason diodes are used is to keep power surges from the collapsing coil from causing more wear on the contacts, as well as back-surging. I'd like to think that none of...

Got it, thanks! I'll report back on my findings tomorrow.

eserv, thanks for responding (I'm really feeling adrift). I do have power on the white/blue wire. What I don't have is power getting OUT of the relay to the solenoid. According to the spec I found on these relays the one that's in the tractor might have a diode in it: they state that it's an...