What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

[S-G-R]

I made more progress on the Summit Hydraulics kit that I'm adding to the M6060. I finished welding and painting yesterday and ran the wire into the cab this morning. I needed to cut off the connector on the end of the cable and it made the installation even easier and nicer. I was able to punch a hole in the factory grommet and pull the cable through. I installed all of the fittings, and stopped by the local Kubota dealer to have them make up a couple of hoses to connect the multiplier/diverter to #1 rear remotes.

I'm done with all of the exterior work. I did move the windshield washer fluid reservoir mounting bracket from the fender to the cross member. It's welded to the cross member now. I also made brackets for zip ties that I welded on the back side of the cross member. They came out of the large mounting plate that I welded to the cross member.

Summit Hydraulics makes a really nice kit, and even parts that I would expect to be cheap and merely good enough exceed expectations. The switch box for example is surprisingly nice, even though I won't be using it in this tractor. I will put it to use in my Jeep or '02 F-250 or maybe the M-1078.

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Nice, clean looking install. When are you going to give it the first workout?

 

[McMXi]

Nice job there ! Question on how it operates - It looks like you have one of your rear remotes feeding a 4 way diverter - right?? If so to operate you would select a diverter and then operate the rear remote valve. My question is what kind of switches do you have on the diverter valves ? Momentary or toggle. Or maybe your rear remote is electric and not a double acting manual valve and each of the 4 diverter switches also activate the rear remote ??? Clear as mud ???

gg

Thanks!

I'll be using a Scorpion control grip that has four momentary buttons that activate the solenoids to allow oil to flow. The control grip installs on a lever in the cab, and to operate a cylinder or similar, you hold a button down and move the lever forwards or backwards. Technically you could hold down two or more buttons at the same time to allow oil to flow to more than one cylinder or similar, but I don't see a need to do that.

I've modified one of the levers in the cab already and installed a rear wiper and defrost switch for another upgrade, but I have some wiring to connect before this Summit kit is operational.

 

[McMXi]

Nice, clean looking install. When are you going to give it the first workout?

Thanks! Hopefully I can test it out by the weekend. I want to complete a couple of other upgrades while I have access to the wiring under the right side trim panel.

 

[BBFarmer]

This ones more like "What we did on the boss's FIL's kubota". And really (thankfully) what the boss did and what I (or our new apprentice) didn't do.

And the answer for this morning is, "Almost ruined a still new $40k lift."

I was putting my crap away for the next run of crap this morning and heard the ever so unfortunate sound of something get damaged.

Boss was pulling the FIL's kuboter in for a service and WHAM..... slammed the corner of the bucket into the left rear lift column. Shes got a decent dent and nice twist to her now.

Please excuse my apprentice's a$$, it tends to alway be out. I can never understand why either. I always know when my a$$ is out LOL.

Twisted her good at the top

I posted a pic yesterday in RCW's car museum thread of a chevy wagon that was actually on our old drive on rack. We got that rack second hand out of shop that was totalled during Katrina in NO. An old Hunter 15k lb rack that was an absolute tank. And also survived 2 bucket strikes from customers.

This flimsy thinned metal thing we have never liked from the start. The shop mood has been slightly darkened.

 

[McMXi]

This ones more like "What we did on the boss's FIL's kubota". And really (thankfully) what the boss did and what I (or our new apprentice) didn't do.

And the answer for this morning is, "Almost ruined a still new $40k lift."
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I was putting my crap away for the next run of crap this morning and heard the ever so unfortunate sound of something get damaged.

Boss was pulling the FIL's kuboter in for a service and WHAM..... slammed the corner of the bucket into the left rear lift column. Shes got a decent dent and nice twist to her now.
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Please excuse my apprentice's a$$, it tends to alway be out. I can never understand why either. I always know when my a$$ is out LOL.

Twisted her good at the top
View attachment 154130


I posted a pic yesterday in RCW's car museum thread of a chevy wagon that was actually on our old drive on rack. We got that rack second hand out of shop that was totalled during Katrina in NO. An old Hunter 15k lb rack that was an absolute tank. And also survived 2 bucket strikes from customers.

This flimsy thinned metal thing we have never liked from the start. The shop mood has been slightly darkened.

Have you ever stood on an empty soda can and then tapped the exterior resulting in rapid collapse (buckling)? Buckling is a scary prospect for sure and a real concern when structures are designed for vertical loads and not lateral loads.

 

[BBFarmer]

Have you ever stood on an empty soda can and then tapped the exterior resulting in rapid collapse (buckling)? Buckling is a scary prospect for sure and a real concern when structures are designed for vertical loads and not lateral loads.

That is the EXACT analogy the boss used. Being quite pissed at this point, He went ahead and raised the tractor a few feet off the ground and said, "Lets see if the MF'er will collapse like a coke can."

Shes raises and lowers fine but that entire column has obviously been compromised now. And the metal on the column is flimsy enough we know we could probably straight it with some wood blocks and the forklift, but there is a pretty decent ripple at the base of the column now.

And I'm not sure what the FIL's MX5100 is weighing in at but we've been known to exceed the lift capacity often in that bay.

 

[Russell King]

That definitely needs to be repaired or never used.

 

[g_man]

Thanks!

I'll be using a Scorpion control grip that has four momentary buttons that activate the solenoids to allow oil to flow. The control grip installs on a lever in the cab, and to operate a cylinder or similar, you hold a button down and move the lever forwards or backwards. Technically you could hold down two or more buttons at the same time to allow oil to flow to more than one cylinder or similar, but I don't see a need to do that.

I've modified one of the levers in the cab already and installed a rear wiper and defrost switch for another upgrade, but I have some wiring to connect before this Summit kit is operational.

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That makes a very nice set-up. Thanks for the info !

gg

 

[RMS]

Went to my dealer today and bought the filters and oil/fluids for the 400 hr service. Definitly not cheap, but at least I'm doing the labor myself.

 

[trevoroni]

Spread 5 dump truck loads of dirt onto the garden with the B6000.

From this....

To this...

Those clumps in the back are still frozen.
I'll give it a day or 2 and spread them out then time to put the rototiller on.

 

[nerwin]

Someone said to me it's unsafe to weld on bucket hooks because they will fail and break off. Have any of you broke them?

The bucket hooks I got are made in USA and forged steel..not cast iron lol. They were trying to tell me they are cast iron 🥹

I just looked up the specs of my bucket hooks...they are g100 alloy forged and heat treated, etc. I even doubled welded them with plenty of heat. I think these hooks have a breaking strength of around 30k pounds. I don't think my tractor would come close to ever breaking these things...I'm sure I'll break the tractor before those!! I just want them to occasionally pick up things that I can't physically pick up. Not like I'm lifting up I beams or trying to pull a out a stuck excavator lol.

 

[trikepilot]

I also went by the dealer and got my 5gal bucket of SUDT2 as my 400hr hydraulic fluid change is coming in June when I next get a chance to do it. Also grabbed the 2 seals per side to repair the leaky front axle seals. Actually only one side is leaky but I went ahead and grabbed them all to stockpile and avoid any cost increases and shortages if these tariff shenanigans continue.

I also finally got in after a 4+week backorder, the fittings from Discount Hydraulic Hose to be able to properly finish the rear remotes and front third function I recently added.

 

[McMXi]

While I had the right side trim panel loose I added two more switches to the M6060 for upcoming upgrades i.e. rear wiper and rear defrost. Note to self: Despite the desire to push new buttons, don't push the rear wiper button until you've made the proper connections or else you'll spray the inside of the rear window with washer fluid!!!

I finally got around to swapping out the useless cigarette lighter for a dual USB charging port. I bought that USB port for the MX at least three years ago but still need to swap out the lighter in that tractor. Kubota if you're listening!! Stop installing cigarette lighters in tractors!!! Install USB ports instead!! Regardless, I put the cordless Dremel to good use and opened up the existing hole for the USB port.

I plan on tapping into the +12V and ground wires that connected to the lighter (that I'm now using for the USB port) for power to the Summit Hydraulics multiplier/diverter. It's a 15A circuit so no issues there. The USB will only be consuming 5A or so when a phone or similar is plugged in.

Not sure if I'll ever get to use the accessory outlet next to the USB port, and I need two more switches to fill up the panel shown below. I don't like seeing switch blanks. I have some decent LED lights to add front and rear so a couple of additional light switches should do the trick. My brain says that I should have front light switches to the left of the defrost, and rear light switches to the right of the defrost. Yeah, I like that. I guess I'll be moving a switch.

 

[McMXi]

Someone said to me it's unsafe to weld on bucket hooks because they will fail and break off. Have any of you broke them?

The bucket hooks I got are made in USA and forged steel..not cast iron lol. They were trying to tell me they are cast iron 🥹

I just looked up the specs of my bucket hooks...they are g100 alloy forged and heat treated, etc. I even doubled welded them with plenty of heat. I think these hooks have a breaking strength of around 30k pounds. I don't think my tractor would come close to ever breaking these things...I'm sure I'll break the tractor before those!! I just want them to occasionally pick up things that I can't physically pick up. Not like I'm lifting up I beams or trying to pull a out a stuck excavator lol.

Yep! There's an expert under every rock! I would say that @Kennyd4110 is an expert and I'd buy weld on hooks from him in a heart beat ... and plan to. Ken offers weld on hooks with a 6,600 lb working limit and some of those are in my future.

Weld-On Products - BoltOnHooks LLC

Weld-On Hooks and other accessories for compact tractors.

www.boltonhooks.com

The local Kubota dealer welds bucket hooks onto all buckets as standard practice, and they do a nice job!

Forged steel, cast steel and cast iron are all different. Forged is the way to go for sure.

 

[nerwin]

Yep! There's an expert under every rock! I would say that @Kennyd4110 is an expert and I'd buy weld on hooks from him in a heart beat ... and plan to. Ken offers weld on hooks with a 6,600 lb working limit and some of those are in my future.

Weld-On Products - BoltOnHooks LLC

Weld-On Hooks and other accessories for compact tractors.

www.boltonhooks.com

The local Kubota dealer welds bucket hooks onto all buckets as standard practice, and they do a nice job!

Forged steel, cast steel and cast iron are all different. Forged is the way to go for sure.

The ones I got are made here in USA by Laclede and they're made out of forged G100 Alloy if I'm reading it correctly it has a working load of around 15k pounds and breaking strength of like 30k pounds or something. I'm not entirely familiar with these things but either way I don't think I'm gonna break them! These are what the Kubota dealer recommended and what they also install if customers request it and never had an issue with them.

 

[Kennyd4110]

Someone said to me it's unsafe to weld on bucket hooks because they will fail and break off.

"Someone" always has an opinion, LOL.

I doubt your hooks will fail, who knows about the welds though

But, I'm not sure that Laclede forges them in the states, their website does not mention it. Their website also says they are G70, not G100.

I can assure you ours are however:

 

[trikepilot]

I finally got around to swapping out the useless cigarette lighter for a dual USB charging port. I bought that USB port for the MX at least three years ago but still need to swap out the lighter in that tractor. Kubota if you're listening!! Stop installing cigarette lighters in tractors!!! Install USB ports instead!! Regardless, I put the cordless Dremel to good use

Amen, brother!

I'll see your USB and raise you a similar one but with a digital voltmeter on it. I have swapped too many of these out for useless cigarette lighters. Boats, tractors, RTV, my Transit van, my old Outback, generator, man... I lost count.

A large step drill bit also does an excellent job of prepping the hole but most of mine have been plug-n-play into a std cig lighter hole.

 

[BBFarmer]

While I had the right side trim panel loose I added two more switches to the M6060 for upcoming upgrades i.e. rear wiper and rear defrost. Note to self: Despite the desire to push new buttons, don't push the rear wiper button until you've made the proper connections or else you'll spray the inside of the rear window with washer fluid!!!

I finally got around to swapping out the useless cigarette lighter for a dual USB charging port. I bought that USB port for the MX at least three years ago but still need to swap out the lighter in that tractor. Kubota if you're listening!! Stop installing cigarette lighters in tractors!!! Install USB ports instead!! Regardless, I put the cordless Dremel to good use and opened up the existing hole for the USB port.

I plan on tapping into the +12V and ground wires that connected to the lighter (that I'm now using for the USB port) for power to the Summit Hydraulics multiplier/diverter. It's a 15A circuit so no issues there. The USB will only be consuming 5A or so when a phone or similar is plugged in.

Not sure if I'll ever get to use the accessory outlet next to the USB port, and I need two more switches to fill up the panel shown below. I don't like seeing switch blanks. I have some decent LED lights to add front and rear so a couple of additional light switches should do the trick. My brain says that I should have front light switches to the left of the defrost, and rear light switches to the right of the defrost. Yeah, I like that. I guess I'll be moving a switch.

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That's a very clean install.

I also desire the location of your pto switch.

Usually an hour or so into cutting, I"ll develop this gangster lean that causes me to occasionally whack mine with my right elbow.

 

[Siesta Sundance]

https://a.co/d/gViFOVb

Picked this little guy for my 12V cig oulet on the SVL, the dust cover still works with it installed.

 

[nerwin]

Amen, brother!

I'll see your USB and raise you a similar one but with a digital voltmeter on it. I have swapped too many of these out for useless cigarette lighters. Boats, tractors, RTV, my Transit van, my old Outback, generator, man... I lost count.

A large step drill bit also does an excellent job of prepping the hole but most of mine have been plug-n-play into a std cig lighter hole.

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I should have added a voltmeter to mine, I think mine has a dummy light though if it drops below certain amount but I'm not too sure on that.