Got another Bobcat 743B with a dead V1702, I recently found a good running V2003T engine. Before getting the V2003T does anyone know if the V1702 flywheel will work/bolt on (the V1702 flywheel has the fins to blow air through the radiator), or will it just won't work in-place of the V1702 in the skid steer at all. Thanks
V1702 vs V2003T
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Is it a repairable issue?
Asking because I have every part for the V1702 IDI if you need them, even a new head.
I would part with any of it for cheap!
As far as the V2003 having the same crank dimensions, it does appear to be the same dimensions.
(EDIT) Just found that the V1903 V2003 V2203 V2003T all take the same crank.
I've swapped my V1702 IDI bobcat over to the Newest V2203 DI
Things to consider and probably the reasons why very few have ever attempted using V2003 for the swap.
If its Turbo engine, it's taller and will create more heat under a already tight fitting and low air circulating space.
It' a lot more HP for the pump to use, granted mine is 51HP and is doing fine and dandy, and the V2003 is 59HP.
The intake off the V1702 will fit some of the swaps, it won't if it's a turbo, and routing the air pipe for the air cleaner will be tricky.
my V2203 has fuel lines that make the swap of the original intake problematic, so I couse to make a new air pipe, and it's worked well.
You'll need to use the oil pan off of the V1702 for the rear mount.
You'll need to have the rear mount altered to fit the larger crank jornal hole and the wider spacing on the bolt holes, I did mine with a plasma torch and re-drilling the holes.
I bought a new starter for the V1702, but in hindsight I wish I would have made a new plate (altered mine) with a smaller hole and used the newer starter.
I put a new joints in the constant velocity joint (this is a must with the higher HP)
I used the high flow fuel pump (if your's is equipped with it) and eliminated the primer bulb, makes for a much better running unit, especially when fuel get low in the tank and sloshes around.
You'll need to drill and install a dipstick if it's in the pan as most are.
If you want to avoid changing out the gear case (timing cover) as I did, which it will give you the ability to convert the system to shut down with the key instead of manually stopping the engine, (really nice option) you'll need to install an oil fill in the valve cover if it does not already have one.
If you can, also get the alternator off of the newer engine if available, nice upgrade.
If you need more info just ask.
Asking because I have every part for the V1702 IDI if you need them, even a new head.
I would part with any of it for cheap!
As far as the V2003 having the same crank dimensions, it does appear to be the same dimensions.
(EDIT) Just found that the V1903 V2003 V2203 V2003T all take the same crank.
I've swapped my V1702 IDI bobcat over to the Newest V2203 DI
Things to consider and probably the reasons why very few have ever attempted using V2003 for the swap.
If its Turbo engine, it's taller and will create more heat under a already tight fitting and low air circulating space.
It' a lot more HP for the pump to use, granted mine is 51HP and is doing fine and dandy, and the V2003 is 59HP.
The intake off the V1702 will fit some of the swaps, it won't if it's a turbo, and routing the air pipe for the air cleaner will be tricky.
my V2203 has fuel lines that make the swap of the original intake problematic, so I couse to make a new air pipe, and it's worked well.
You'll need to use the oil pan off of the V1702 for the rear mount.
You'll need to have the rear mount altered to fit the larger crank jornal hole and the wider spacing on the bolt holes, I did mine with a plasma torch and re-drilling the holes.
I bought a new starter for the V1702, but in hindsight I wish I would have made a new plate (altered mine) with a smaller hole and used the newer starter.
I put a new joints in the constant velocity joint (this is a must with the higher HP)
I used the high flow fuel pump (if your's is equipped with it) and eliminated the primer bulb, makes for a much better running unit, especially when fuel get low in the tank and sloshes around.
You'll need to drill and install a dipstick if it's in the pan as most are.
If you want to avoid changing out the gear case (timing cover) as I did, which it will give you the ability to convert the system to shut down with the key instead of manually stopping the engine, (really nice option) you'll need to install an oil fill in the valve cover if it does not already have one.
If you can, also get the alternator off of the newer engine if available, nice upgrade.
If you need more info just ask.
Last edited:
Wow, that's a lot of info, and I appreciate it.
Yes it does have the turbo, I plan to take it off to reduce the power some, and git rid of the extra heat it creates.
I also have a plasma cutter, stick, mig, and tig welders, band saw, milling machine, 15"x60" lathe, tubing bender, and access to my brothers cnc milling machine.
I also build racecars so I can modify, and fabricate just about anything, build turbocharger setups for just about anything you can think of, complete tube chassis, etc.
The extra power will kill the hydraulics on the machine because they were not made for that extra horsepower unless you are careful of how you use it. So I'm removing the turbo to take away some of that extra power, so making some new tubing for the exhaust, and intake to work is not a problem.
If the engine checks out ok all I have to load it up, bring it to my shop, and let the fun begin. I'll also take pictures of what I had to change to make it all work so if anyone else want to do it they can see how I did it.
Yes it does have the turbo, I plan to take it off to reduce the power some, and git rid of the extra heat it creates.
I also have a plasma cutter, stick, mig, and tig welders, band saw, milling machine, 15"x60" lathe, tubing bender, and access to my brothers cnc milling machine.
I also build racecars so I can modify, and fabricate just about anything, build turbocharger setups for just about anything you can think of, complete tube chassis, etc.
The extra power will kill the hydraulics on the machine because they were not made for that extra horsepower unless you are careful of how you use it. So I'm removing the turbo to take away some of that extra power, so making some new tubing for the exhaust, and intake to work is not a problem.
If the engine checks out ok all I have to load it up, bring it to my shop, and let the fun begin. I'll also take pictures of what I had to change to make it all work so if anyone else want to do it they can see how I did it.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I don't know for sure but think you can deturbo that on that motor without changing some parts, I know the the fuel cams are different and possibly the injectors?
Hope you can get it to work out for you.
Like other diesel engines with turbos their probably isn't any real differences with the fuel injection. Like the early 1980's Ford 6710, and 7710 tractor the only difference between the two is the 7710 had a turbo while the 6710 didn't. Both had the same engine, but the turbo only added 19 more horsepower to the 7710, so taking the turbo off the V2003T it will probably loose 10 - 15 horsepower without doing anything else to it. The engine won't notice the turbo isn't on it, but if the turbo doubled the power it would be a different story with the injection system, at least in my experience.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Kubota does not play by the same rules as others, I've looked it up the V2003 uses different parts than the V2003T
Different injection pumps, Different injectors, and possibly Different fuel cams (Can't confirm that one).
I know starting there should be no real difference but when you go to full revs then things will change.
I think you'll run into a fuel mixture issue.
But I haven't messed with a whole lot of turbo models or tryed to De-turbo them...
I'll be interested in what you find out what you run into or not.
FWIW: The 743's handle the extra horsepower very well, I've been running mine for 3 years and have zero engine / drive train issues.
Different injection pumps, Different injectors, and possibly Different fuel cams (Can't confirm that one).
I know starting there should be no real difference but when you go to full revs then things will change.
I think you'll run into a fuel mixture issue.
But I haven't messed with a whole lot of turbo models or tryed to De-turbo them...
I'll be interested in what you find out what you run into or not.
FWIW: The 743's handle the extra horsepower very well, I've been running mine for 3 years and have zero engine / drive train issues.
That kind of figures, the V1702 is kind of tight on the exhaust side of the 743B. I only seen the pictures of the V2003T so far, and the turbo isn't as big as I thought so it may go in (I can change how the turbo is mounted to the engine to move it if needed). Make some heat shields out of stainless steel to help control some of the heat. I plan going to get the engine from my friend sometime this coming week, but I'm going to check, and test it out before even start to put in. People on the Bobcat forums always warn about putting a more powerful engine to the hydraulic system in the 743B, but this one will be for occasional farm use, and not full time construction work with a "experienced operator" (I was a heavy equipment field mechanic for over 15 years). Who knows it could be the first 743BT if the engine turns out to be useable, so hopefully we'll find out sometime this coming week, should be interesting.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Like i said earlier, the weak link is the constant velocity joint that couples the motor to the trans, if you replace that with new one, somewhere in the range of $140 you will be good.
https://www.loaderpartssource.com/bobcat-743-skid-steer-spider-front-rear-u-joint-kit.html
I do own a construction company and run mine hard sometimes, and have zero issues, but I do take good care of my equipment.
The turbo model adds about 100mm in height, but the exhaust pipe could easily be modified to help make up the room.
It's the fan shroud that takes up alot of room.
I'm looking forward to what you come up with, and if you need help with wiring for the stop solenoid I can do that.
https://www.loaderpartssource.com/bobcat-743-skid-steer-spider-front-rear-u-joint-kit.html
I do own a construction company and run mine hard sometimes, and have zero issues, but I do take good care of my equipment.
The turbo model adds about 100mm in height, but the exhaust pipe could easily be modified to help make up the room.
It's the fan shroud that takes up alot of room.
I'm looking forward to what you come up with, and if you need help with wiring for the stop solenoid I can do that.