TSC Majic Paint

olthumpa

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Has anyone used TSC Majic Paint in the gallon can and how did it work for you?

I got a gallon of their gray primer, a gallon of the orange, their hardener and their thinner.

Let me start by saying that I am not a body or paint man.

I sand blasted the fenders, dash and hood/bonnet. I then etched everything. Applied two coats of primer, wet sanding between each coat and waited 3 - 4 days between coats. First coat of orange, 4 days then wet sanded before final coat. Added hardener to final coat. (put on with a brush)

Results:
Drying time is horrible. Painted boom pole as described above. after final coat I left it inside for 5 days then in the sun for 4 more days. The first time I used it some of the paint easily came off. :( The hood, after almost a month to harden, after the last coat, still scratches easily even with the hardliner added. :mad: (Sprayed on) The dash after 2 months still scratches easily. :eek:

The quality of my work is far from perfect but I expected much better results. I followed their directions exactly.

Curious if you have used their paint and what the results were?
 

Daren Todd

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I haven't even seen the tsc stuff so don't really have anything to compare to. My first thought on the paint job is two different types of paint were used. I understand that you used the same brand. Just wondering if one was a lacquer based paint with an enamel primer or vise versa :confused: If different styles were used, then they will not dry and harden correctly since the solvent in one style paint is used to clean up the other. :eek: I made that mistake years ago giving a motorcycle a paint job. Got some hi dollar paint and primer off the shelf and didn't know that you can't mix and match. Made a huge mess. :rolleyes:

I then ended up going to an auto body supplier for a pint of paint, primer and hardner and had much better results.

I used to get gallons of the rustoleum paint from ace hardware, thin it down (can't remember what I used for thinner) and use a low pressure hi volume sprayer with pretty decent results :D
 

hodge

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I've used it in the spray cans. It is heavy, and it does take a lot more time to cure. Once cured, though, it seems fine. I've used it for some various projects, including painting the bucket on dad's JD after welding on some hooks. I have not used it in the cans.
It does smell.
 

olthumpa

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. . . My first thought on the paint job is two different types of paint were used. I understand that you used the same brand. Just wondering if one was a lacquer based paint with an enamel primer or vise versa :confused: If different styles were used, then they will not dry and harden correctly since the solvent in one style paint is used to clean up the other. :eek: . . . .
This is the combination that they told me was what I needed.


The primer was:

Majic® All-Purpose Oil Base Shop Primer, 1 gal., Gray
8-2480

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/majicreg%3B-all-purpose-oil-base-shop-primer-1-gal-gray

The paint was:
Majic® Town & Country Tractor, Truck & Implement, 1 gal., Kubota Orange Exterior Oil Base Enamel 8-297
1


http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp...logId=10051&mpe_id=10051&ddkey=http:ClickInfo

Majic® Reducer, 1 Pint

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/majicreg;-reducer-1-pint


Majic® Catalyst Hardener, 1/2 pint 8-0950-4


http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/majicreg;-catalyst-hardener-1-2-pint
 

Dr Honda

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Well....


I think I see your issue. You said that the first coat of paint, you didn't add the catalyst? I think it needs it to cure properly. It may have been dry to the touch... but it may not of cured. Then, when the top coat hit it... I'm sure it went soft again.


I've used the spray cans, and it seems to kick-off just fine. (but not as fast as something like rustolium)
 

olthumpa

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Thank you Daren, Hodge and Honda for your response.

Daren and Hodge, I bereave that I have answered your questions, if not please ask for more clarification.

Honda, " You said that the first coat of paint, you didn't add the catalyst?" They said to only add the hardliner to the last coat.


"I think it needs it to cure properly. It may have been dry to the touch... but it may not of cured. "
According to the can, "Drying: Normally dries in 5 to 10 hours at 77F and 50% relative humidity. Temperature and humidity will affect dry time. Allow 24 hours before recoating"

I waited 3 - 4 days between coats. I had a temp and humidity gauge in the area that I painted in. It recorded the high and low for the day. I had a small heater and a dehumidifier in there also to control these. Humidity was set for 35 - 40% and never went above it. Temperature was between 80 -85F. Before recoating I put them in the sun for about 6 hours, wet sanded when it was outside, then back inside for at least an hour before I applied another coat.

At least for the time being, I am not going to re do it. I have plenty of everything to do it though.

My main purpose for starting this thread was for others to have some info on the Majic paint and to try to gain some incite into what I may have dome wrong. Also, I had planned on redoing the complete FEL and redoing some implements also.

Thank you again for your time.:)
 

D2Cat

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This may be part of your problem, "This is the combination that they told me was what I needed."

Very few folks working in stores (of any kind) know much about the products they sell.

I am not a painter, either. I'd rather take a beating then paint something. However, I have painted my L305. I don't remember the brand of paint, but I got some coaching from a retired body man.

He told me so much about how to mix, what to mix, how to spray, how long to wait, etc, etc. etc. All good information, I'm sure, but more then I needed to know for my simple mind!

I do remember I used the hardener in each coat, not just the last one.

I'd suggest looking online, asking someone else or just confirm the information told to you was correct.
 

Daren Todd

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just checked out majic's website and checked there instructions. Here's a link to it.

http://www.majicpaints.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Paint-Training_TSCWEB.pdf

I checked the reviews on the paints and primer. the multipurpose primer review said it was junk and wouldn't dry. I'm thinking they recommended the wrong primer for your application.

They said the paint was good though. according to the directions, the paint requires a hardener for every coat.
 

olthumpa

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Well, I guess at some point in the near future I will have to strip and repaint everything.:mad:

Was planning on taking the FEL off late summer/early fall to do some work to it then repaint it before putting it back on. I guess I will be doing some additional painting then.

Thank you everyone for your help/suggestions/research, I greatly appreciate it.:)
 

CaveCreekRay

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Dude... That sucks!

Having gone through a big paint project on mine, I feel for you.

:confused:
 

olthumpa

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Dude... That sucks!

Having gone through a big paint project on mine, I feel for you.

:confused:
Thanks!:)

I was not looking for perfection but more to protect it. If the paint will not harden and stay on/comes off easily, I do not see much of a choice but to redo it.:(