I've been using Amsoil synthetic grease, NGLI # 1, for years, now. With its relatively high price ($9.75/tube + shipping), I am looking for a synthetic grease that I can buy local, Any ideas/experiences? 
Synthetic grease question...
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85Hokie
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I've been using Amsoil synthetic grease, NGLI # 1, for years, now. With its relatively high price ($9.75/tube + shipping), I am looking for a synthetic grease that I can buy local, Any ideas/experiences?
AS much as I love the the synthetics, I use that $6 tube red sticky grease bought locally. I find most of it on the outside of the grease joints anyway!
Some on the floor too! I grease the machine often - probably inside the ten hour mark, I have gotten better at not wasting the liquid gold however - two trigger clicks on the ol' pneumatic grease gun and the old seeps out enough to be seen. If I had places that did NOT seep out - I would use the synthetic all the way around. I do not use synthetics on those car engines that burn oil either, as much as it does a better job, that fact that it like the grease that oozes out, the fact that it is forced out over a short time is an expensive venture. al m
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IMHO,as far as the question of synthetics or conventional,as far as all lubes,it is much more important that you use them regularly that what one you use
Im usually not one to disagree, but thin runny cheap grease like all the garages use to lube chassis components arent worth the cardboard its packed in.
The any kind heavy duty grease at least gives you a barrier, which is what is its intended purpose.
I prefer to spend the extra dollars to get a decent lubricant, although it being a heavy grease and it harder to pump, its money well spent-down the road.
al m
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I'm not saying don't buy expensive lubes,(my 2004 Toyota has never had anything but synthetic), I'm saying what every you buy,use it regularly.
The best oil needs to be changed,and there's not a grease that does any good in the gun
A couple of questions?I've been using Amsoil synthetic grease, NGLI # 1, for years, now. With its relatively high price ($9.75/tube + shipping), I am looking for a synthetic grease that I can buy local, Any ideas/experiences?
Which Amsoil grease do you use?
Where do you get it for that price?
GPOR1CR-CA Case of 10 $92.85+shipping, from amsoil site.
I got a feeler out to somebody on fleabay, to see what their shipping is. My amsoil account is dormant, haven't ordered from them in several years, last time I bought it, I bought 4 cases, but that lasted at least 8 years.
Tomorrow, I gotta call amsoil to reset my password, as my email has changed since I last ordered...
I use the NLGI#2 of the same grease. I would suggest you become a dealer just so you can get better prices for your own use. My price on a case of 10 is $68.44 and 4 cases is $270 which makes it $6.75 a tube. No need to go cheap on grease when you can get the best for that price. Only thing you'll have to do is pay membership dues and the price difference on 1 case of grease will more than cover those.
Being in the Bearing Biz I can tell you that its Not recommended to use 100% synthetic on applications where a rubber lip seal is holding the grease in ( Wheel bearing for example) the 100% synthetics done have the petroleum additives it takes to keep the seals pliable. sure you can do it, but the seals wont last as long.
Wow, guess I need to spend more for grease! I have a 15 gal. barrel of Lithium based Lubriplate I use on everything at the farm. Maybe my stuff is wearing out too fast and I don't know it.
Come to think about it, I have a couple of partially filled 5 gal. pails of grease I use from time to time.
I don"t think I've bought a tube of grease since gasoline was .75 a gallon.
Guess my stuff will bring less at the estate sale.
Come to think about it, I have a couple of partially filled 5 gal. pails of grease I use from time to time.
I don"t think I've bought a tube of grease since gasoline was .75 a gallon.
Guess my stuff will bring less at the estate sale.
Hadda call them today to set up preferred customer account. Price for the case of 10 +the membership was $99.22. The one on fleabay wanted $9.65/tube + $25.00 shipping. I don't think so...
The main thing I use it on is the undercarriage wheels, on the ASV RC-30. It has 24 dust caps, on 24 wheels, that were originally "permanently" lubed with some kind of cheap grease, that separated into oil and wax. After replacing 2 bogey wheels, at a cost of $160.00 per wheel, I drilled each dust cap, welded a 1/4" NF nut on to each, and threaded a zerk into each. I grease them 1 or 2 times a year, now, and have had no further failures...
I wonder if that's suppose to apply to every brand of synthetic grease. I've used 100% synthetic for over 30 years on everything including wheel bearings and never had any problems with seals.
I didn't know it was a bad thing either. I used it on the wheel bearings for my Donzi (speedboat) trailer, All new bearings and seals (4wheels) and had two bearing failures in two years.. got to looking into what happened and the seals failed. told one of the guys at work (Timken) and he told me about the syn greases not keeping the seals rubbery.. Made sense I guess. then found out the AAR (Association American Railroads) doesn't want us to use the Syn grease on the Lip type seals for that very reason. average life of a Railroad bearing is 500,000 miles. we do use it on other bearings (same bearing different type seal) and some have passed the 1M mile mark.
Just curious, what brand grease were you using? I've never had any problem but maybe I've been lucky.
How did you weld the grease zerk on, TIG, MIG, or JB Weld? I wanted to do this but the ASV dealer said the rear bearing will not get any grease.The main thing I use it on is the undercarriage wheels, on the ASV RC-30. It has 24 dust caps, on 24 wheels, that were originally "permanently" lubed with some kind of cheap grease, that separated into oil and wax. After replacing 2 bogey wheels, at a cost of $160.00 per wheel, I drilled each dust cap, welded a 1/4" NF nut on to each, and threaded a zerk into each. I grease them 1 or 2 times a year, now, and have had no further failures...
I recommend that you use Amsoil Water Resistant grease, it's made for boat trailer wheel bearings, they are in the water when they load/unload the boat. Also less $ than the current grease you are using.
Travis
The rear bearing gets grease, from the front one. There are no seals between the bearings, just behind the rear one. I took the grease cups out, mounted them in a lathe, drilled the correct sized hole, for the 1/4-28 NF tap, tapped them.
Then I took a bolt, and threaded 2 nuts on it, and threaded it into the dust cap, and locked it down. then I took a mig welder, and welded the nut to the cap. Them caps are thin, the hardest part of the job was filling the blow out holes, cause the only wire I had was .35 and it likes to blow through.
As for the selection of grease, I wanted something that I can also use for the pins and bushings, in the loader arms and attachments. That's why I went with #1 instead of #2...
Ordered the grease, on monday, got it on wednesday. Amsoil is pretty good at shipping...
The rear bearing gets grease, from the front one. There are no seals between the bearings, just behind the rear one. I took the grease cups out, mounted them in a lathe, drilled the correct sized hole, for the 1/4-28 NF tap, tapped them.
Then I took a bolt, and threaded 2 nuts on it, and threaded it into the dust cap, and locked it down. then I took a mig welder, and welded the nut to the cap. Them caps are thin, the hardest part of the job was filling the blow out holes, cause the only wire I had was .35 and it likes to blow through.
As for the selection of grease, I wanted something that I can also use for the pins and bushings, in the loader arms and attachments. That's why I went with #1 instead of #2...
Ordered the grease, on monday, got it on wednesday. Amsoil is pretty good at shipping...
I went through a similar situation, i just used a nut, never welded to grease cap. Was on a boat trailer and worked fine.
Again, necessity is the mother of invention.
Thanks DIYDave!The rear bearing gets grease, from the front one. There are no seals between the bearings, just behind the rear one. I took the grease cups out, mounted them in a lathe, drilled the correct sized hole, for the 1/4-28 NF tap, tapped them.
Then I took a bolt, and threaded 2 nuts on it, and threaded it into the dust cap, and locked it down. then I took a mig welder, and welded the nut to the cap. Them caps are thin, the hardest part of the job was filling the blow out holes, cause the only wire I had was .35 and it likes to blow through.
As for the selection of grease, I wanted something that I can also use for the pins and bushings, in the loader arms and attachments. That's why I went with #1 instead of #2...
Ordered the grease, on monday, got it on wednesday. Amsoil is pretty good at shipping...
Do you ever have any problems with the zerks getting broke off? Do you use loctite to keep the zerk in place? My neighbor suggested that I remove all 24 wheels and drill at a angle directly between the bearings, I like your way better!
Merry Christmas ! Please keep the rc30 ideas coming, it's like Christmas Day every day when I get on this forum!