saftey interlocks & fuses???

[royboy42]

Hey fellers. Awesome site. Really enjoy the vids!

I just bought a L1500 and draged a 4ft box blade round the yard for an hour or so then parked it. before i got off i decided that's not where i wanted it so i hit the switch and it wouldn't even turn the starter.

I probed around with the multimeter. found out how hard it is to hold two test leads push in the clutch and turn the knob at the same time. reckon i need to get some alligator clips.

Got the battery on the trickler. Tested the starter off the tractor it spins like a top and gets kicked out by the solenoid. I'm wondering if ain't the start knob itself as it doesn't appear that there is a very complicated electrical system.

I'm waiting on a I & T manual to show up in the mail. Hopefully it'll have some sort of wiring diagram in it.

In the meantime is there any other safety interlocks beside the one on the clutch? how bout any fuses?

any info would be appreciated.

Thanks for any future replies and once again kudos on the videos.

 

[aquaforce]

I&T manual Some swear by them and some swear at them


Mine kinda pizzes me off at times when it doesn't have something I need. I am going through my engine and when I want raw data I have to read through a whole section telling me how to do something just to get the numbers I want. Some engine things are not there but the index says it is


I would think you can check continuity through the safety and the start switch while the battery is disconnected.
Probably the start knob.
Good luck

 

[Ob1kubota]

Welcome Mr. Roy... Here's a thought... put it all back together and use a remote push button switch across the starter solenoid and the positive battery terminating on the starter. See if it cranks, since you have bench tested the starter you need to put it back in the circuit. The issue is between the starter push button, the starter relay and the fact with key on your not getting 12 volts to the starter solenoid coil. Make sure all your interlocks are in neutral... meaning the range selector in neutral position, depress the clutch petal eventhough it may not be necessary on this older tractor and the gear shift in neutral as well. If nothing happens its your ignition start fuse, open wiring ( no continunity ) or bad contacts on starter push button. You have a multimeter simply check backyards to the fuse block for voltage and where you loose it in the one line diagram that will be to you soon will be the open component. Please let us know what you find because your hard work will help others and that is what we are all about on this forum. Remember, all interlocks will be on the 85 & 86 poles of the starter relay. Think of them as "signals" to your high current handling cables that cause the starter to engage the starter reduction gear and thus complete the auto ignition process.

 

[royboy42]

thanks for the welcome OB1. Oddly enough it does have an ignorant
"safety" lock on the clutch pedal.

I would think you can check continuity through the safety and the start switch while the battery is disconnected.
Probably the start knob.
Good luck

Aqua that's exactly what i did. Got the wife to set on the throne and push in the clutch and turn the various switches and i'd read a short from the solenoid push on connector back to the hot terminal when the left switch was in any position besides turned all the way off and the left switch was turned to the right.



After charging the battery off the tractor for two cycles of 2 hours on 10A and 1 hour on 2A. I connected the battery back up to the tractor, after replacing what appeared to be the factory terminals. turned the left switch all the way to the right and then turned the left switch to the right for 3 secs or so then to the left and thump thump thumpity thumpity thumpity off we went dragging the box blade in little circles with a big grin on my face and the smell of fresh dirt in the air.

I've never seen a battery drain down so fast that it wouldn't even turn the starter over. I'm wondering if the alternator/regulator is/are working as they should. I reckon time will tell. The alternator belt was way too loose with probably an inch of deflection on the top part. Hopefully with the new terminals and tightening the alternator belt will remedy this.

Thanks for your thoughts on this fellers.

 

[Ob1kubota]

Roy just put your voltmeter on the battery terminals with the engine RPM at half throttle and see if you don't have 13.2 volts on the battery. If 12.8 or greater your generator is okay. If you feel there is a parasitic draw on the battery remove the negative battery cable from the battery pole and put your amp-meter in series with the cable and negative pole and read the milli-amps scale and if .450 amps or more pull each fuse you can find on the tractor until it goes away and that will be your source circuit of the battery drain.

 

[royboy42]

I hate testing stuff. I do that all day at work. I like the idea of enjoying myself and moving dirt in order to test the charging system.

It only drains the battery with the left key turned on. last night i found out how he didn't notice the way it was getting drained setting up with the key on. the little dash light for the tach actually works. the headlamps are intermittent though.

It's started up 3 days in a row now. After i shut it down yesterday i did do a voltage check and the battery read 12.5 with the tractor off and i had been riding for a couple of hours. So i figure it must be getting charged.

Feel free to correct me if i'm wrong but my understanding of this particular charging system is that it's not constantly charging the battery like todays vehicles do.

 

[Ob1kubota]

The little generator constantly puts out voltage via the engine drive so I don't know how the voltage regulator could hold off back feeding the battery. I know how your feel dude testing stuff all day long. H...., I'm a service manager and I don't understand why I want to fix stuff all night, (LOL) HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

 

[royboy42]

well it's been 2 weeks since all this debacle and it's started every time i've asked too. which has been almost daily.

I believe the new battery teminals and tightening the alternator belt has solved any past issues.

Thanks for the ideas.

Oh yea the I&T manual finally showed up. What a waste of paper. Only 1/4 of the entire book even applies.

 

[Ob1kubota]

roy ... the I&T manual where did you get this from? I thought they called them WSM ( Work Shop Manuals)

 

[royboy42]

http://www.booksamillion.com/product/9780872886469?id=4536462326096

I ordered thru the local store.