Rebilding the engine on a B5100

[miro]

I've had the B5100 for about 7 years.
It is a manual transmission, and I use it mainly for snow blowing in winter and for pulling a wagon around our rural property in summer / fall
and to drag / level the 3/4 km gravel driveway ( I have a bigger 1952 Massey 30 for grading the driveway) .
So except for the snow blowing which I do, maybe 3 - 4 times in a winter, it doesn't work all that hard.
Over the past year, I have noticed that when it get nicely warmed up , that the oil light comes when it is set to idle speed.
I don't let it run that way . I rev it up a bit to get the oil light to extinguish.
Lately, when starting , it fires on 1 cylinder and then after about a minute or so, the second cylinder fires up.
It blows white smoke when it's doing this.

Seems to me that it's getting worn ( no surprise here).
The clutch has always been a bit "grabby" , so a re-build would likely mean that I should do the clutch as well.

I'm OK to do most maintenance on the tractor and have done rebuilds on smaller engines, but never done a rebuild
on something like the diesel engine on the B5100.

The tractor is 4 WD and has a front, electric PTO , which drives the snow blower - I like this feature a lot.

My question here is : Is a re-build of this small engine a "do-able" job ? ....and...
What might be the steps that I'll have to go through to get the engine out?

I searched this web site quite a bit and have a ( vague?) idea of what's involved, but some finer details would be very helpful.

I'm OK with the tractor as it is, but seems to me that it should be done a bit sooner than wait until there is a big, bad, noise from the engine.

Miro
(near Port Carling, Ontario)

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Don't jump the gun here because what you describing might be all external.

Bad oil pressure switch will give false reading and false lights.
Manually test oil pressure.

Smoking like your describing and a lazy cylinder can be because a glow plug is not working properly, and or a Injector is failing.

Test Glow plugs!
Then if both are good, pull the injectors and test compression.
If compression is good then have the injectors tested.
If injectors test good then you'll need to pull the injection pump and have it tested rebuilt.

One quick way to tell if these engines need rebuilt is it they have excessive blow by.
Does it have that?

 

[D2Cat]

Oil light could be coming on at low RPM because the plug in the end of the cam fell out! Was a common thing in the older engines. Plug was alum and cam shaft is steel. After a kazillion heat/cool cycles the alum is ejected and falls into the oil pan.

Cure is to remove the front of the engine and replace the plug. I used an old "roller" from a tapered roller bearing and weld it in place.

 

[miro]

There doesn't seem to be blow by from the engine when running , even after an hour or two to heavy snow blowing - no blue smoke , or black smoke.

I will follow up with the glow plug testing and the injector work, once I get up north and the snow has gone away. Likely won't have to do much more snow blowing with the warm weather we've been having.

From what I've read, maybe I should be using the 5W49 Rotella diesel instead of the 10W30 gasoline engine oil.

I sure like that little tractor.