Rear Remotes - Planning stages, need advice

[number9]

I've had this discussion running over on TBN but thought I could post it here too and get some more input.

I have a Kubota L3800 with FEL. I am wanting to add a Top-n-Tilt setup but want to take my time and plan this out and try and get it "right" (not have regrets) the first time.

There isn't a lot of room on the L3800 to mount the valves in a clean way and I'd really like to use a loader type valve / joystick with Float for running the TnT. I'd like to have the Float on the top link to allow Rotary Cutter, Finish Mower and Box Blade follow the ground. I want to add a Power Beyond valve/remote as well while I am at it, but am fine with a single lever for that function or using a diverter valve may be even better. I want as clean an install as I can work out.

These are the two valves I am looking at and think they might fit well down in between the seat and RH fender and work well for what I have in mind. I know I'll have to do some fab work to get them mounted and creative hose routing, but that's fine as I am not in a bug hurry to throw them on in the next week. I want to take my time and do it well and I suspect hose routing will be the most challenging part of this process.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7401&catname=hydraulic

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9SV-3-Y&catname=hydraulic

I like the fact that the Prince SV valve has a joystick option to control 2 valves. I also like that I can get it with 2 float sections for the TnT. I really want to get the valve mounted down between the seat and fender and have the lever sticking up where my hand would be operating the 3pt lever. Just seems like it would be more natural than going from the 3pt lever back to up on the fender or ROPS and back.

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[number9]

I searched a lot today on the forum and seems a lot of people use the Prince SV series valves for rear remotes. I think I am either going to go with a 3-spool Prince SV, with 1) float, 2) float, 3) DA spring center and add the optional joystick and install it on spools 1 & 2. Run the TnT off the joystick and have the 3rd for whatever I end up needing it for. I am worried that the valve will be just a bit too big to fit in where I want it to though. I've got 3" wheel spacers, so I *could* move the fenders out a couple inches if it came to that, but I'd rather not get into all that.

I was also able to find a thread where someone else had used the first joystick valve I posted in this thread and installed it exactly where I want it to be. From the thread he said it worked out great. He hasn't been on the forum in a couple years though I don't think. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/137147-thanks-all-help-tnt.html Trouble with this is I'd only have a 2-spool valve and it only has 1 float. If the Prince SV is just too big, maybe I'll have to go this route and add a diverter valve for spool-1 and run the TnT off of it so they both have float and then use spool-2 for the 3rd function.

If I decide to get a grapple later on, I'll probably just run a hose from the rear of the tractor, up to a QC at the factory loader valve, then down the boom to QC on the cross bar behind the bucket.

I found a complete manual for the SV series valves today and the SV valve with 3 SVW sections is 8-5/8" tall x 8-3/4" wide x 3-1/4" thick if it is standing on the float caps with the handles pointed to the sky. Gonna be tight I'm affraid, but I'm gonna build a cardboard mockup today and see how it looks down in there.

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[number9]

I placed my order for TnT with Brian at Fit-Rite this morning, so I've GOT to get some valves now


The SV valve with 3 SVW sections is 8-5/8" tall x 8-3/4" wide x 3-1/4" thick. I made a box this evening that is 9" x 9" x 3-1/4" to see how it was gonna work out and after giving it some good looks, I think it will work out after all. I can't get crazy with the hoses and fittings, but I want to do them neat and as "just right" as I can anyway.

Here the box down in the spot I want to mount it (seat is folded up in most of these pics). I used a scrap piece of wood under the box to hold it in place while I looked and took pics. I plan to cut the unused panel above the box out to make room for the joystick and 3rd lever.

Here's a look from behind.

From behind with the seat folded down.

From above with the seat down.

From above with the seat folded up and a tape showing the room I've got to work with for the fittings and hoses.

I think it looks like it can work out. I need to double check and confirm that the joystick will move into Float in the directions I want (from the seat - forward for spool-1, Top link and to the right for spool-2, Tilt link). If that checks out, I think I'll order the valve, joystick and a few fittings and pick up a length of 3/8" Hyd hose in town so I can start figuring out exactly where it needs to land and then start working on a mounting setup for the valve under there.

What do you guys think? You see anything that I am missing and will stop me in my tracks?

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[skeets]

Looks like you have it pretty well figured out, but maybe a little cramped to me, but maybe when you get the valve body in place it wouldnt look so much

 

[bandaidmd]

that valve that you linked too in the old thread on tbn is not the exact valve that is now being sold at surplus center .
heres some pics of the one from surplus center that i used, it is the one you linked to in post 1.
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10650&page=2

 

[number9]

Started the mockup last night. Here's the valve put together and painted.

First thing was to remove the fender and get better access. This panel that covers the 3ph lever has to be trimmed to allow the joystick to come up beside the seat. I want this to look as factory as possible so it's more standing, looking, thinking, than action so it's slow going.

I had to make a mount bracket to mount the end of the panel after it's trimmed. I want to use the bolt that holds the 3ph lever stop since it's already there and will look factory. I removed the panel and ground the welded nut off the bottom. Then put the panel back on and made a bracket just like the other two. Marked the bracket for the hole location, drilled the hole and then welded the nut back onto the bottom of the newly made bracket. There will need to be more brackets welded to the main fender support brace to mount the valve on, so I'll wait and paint it when it's all ready to bolt on.

Looks like I am going to have to cut the 3ph lever off and weld it back on at an angle so it won't interfere with the joystick when in the full up position. Maybe, but I think it will have to be modified.

That's all I got done last night, got a late start. Hope to make a lot more progress today and for sure over the weekend.

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[bandaidmd]

great progress on the hydros!
Now we need to work on lighting for the photos.lol

 

[number9]

Tell me about it - my shop needs about 4 times the lights that it has now....that's coming on another project

Got some progress made this weekend. Everything is still in mockup and has to be taken back down and painted when my paint gets here Tuesday. Got the valve mount made and installed. Fits real good. The joystick is going to be a little tight, but playing with the lever rotation should get it lined out.

Valve fits real good on the inside of the fender.

I wanted the QCs to be all vertical like Paul did his, but he only had 4 and I've got 6. Didn't want them to get down beside the lift arm on the 3ph so I notched the mounting braket so the top 2 would be up higher in the bend of the ROPS.

Gonna work on the return to tank tomorrow. Think I am going to try and copy what another member did (forget who it was now) and dump it to the top of the housing rather than T into the loader block down under the floorboard.

I'll post up more and better detailed pics when I start the final assy.

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[bandaidmd]

Looks great and well lighted.lol
I thought you were using a loader valve? Why 6 qc's

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[number9]

I used a Prince SV stack valve with 3 work sections. First two have float and are controlled by the optional joystick. 3rd section is normal spring centered and will be used for whatever comes down the road....figured may as well add it now while I am in all this. The handle for it isn't in the pics, still have to fab one up cause the mount sticks back under the seat.

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[bandaidmd]

I used a Prince SV stack valve with 3 work sections. First two have float and are controlled by the optional joystick. 3rd section is normal spring centered and will be used for whatever comes down the road....figured may as well add it now while I am in all this. The handle for it isn't in the pics, still have to fab one up cause the mount sticks back under the seat.

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oh, I will have to look that one up.

 

[number9]

Got all the painted parts put on and the joystick and lever adjusted and lubed. All the NPT fittings pipe dropped and installed. I copied from another members install and made a plate for the transmission ports and JB welded a NPT fitting on it so the return to tank just dumps right there by the valve. As long as it don't leak it'll make for a cleaner install. Now just need the hoses to arrive and test this sucker out!

Pulled some pics off my phone of what I did for the 3rd work section lever and the plate I copied from Steve. Each work section came with a standard control lever, so they were all extra parts since I'd ordered the joystick and enclosed handle options. I just cut those standard handles up to make the dog leg handle.

Also a couple pics of the TnT and QC plate installed. Last two pics is after all the parts were painted.

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[bandaidmd]

Nice clean looking install, is there a can full of " Mistake" fittings.lol
I have quite a few in my "inventory"

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[number9]

Think I've got 6 lol, and then 6 45* fittings that I got just to see of they might fit better in some spots. I put a LOT of thought and notes and drawing into it.

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[bandaidmd]

I hope your vertical stack of QD's dosn't cause you any issues on the supply side,remember that the hoses wont flex very well for about the ffirst 6 inches.
That valve you used? the front handle is a four way like a loader valve and the back handle is a two way forward and back?

 

[number9]

They shouldn't, hopefully. I used 1/2" air hose with a deep wall socket slipped over the end to mimic what the Hyd hose will be like when figuring out the routing and lengths.

On the valve, it's 3 work sections. First two have float, rear one is standard spring centered. I want to control the TnT cylinders with a joystick and both cylinders be able to float. So I got the optional joystick kit and it replaced the factory tops of the first two work sections and operated them both. The rear work section, I wanted the enclosed handle kit so 1) it's all enclosed to the elements and 2) so I'd be able to fab up any kind of screw in stick because I knew it would be back under the seat and would need to be some sort of hacked together custom stick.

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[magicheater]

Really glad to see someone investing the time to increase the hydraulic functions of their tractor. Doing it how you are will continually reward you for as long as you own your tractor. A lot of thought and of course extra fittings left over are often the case but the satisfaction of use after completion makes ALL the expense and time seem like a real bargain. NICE!

 

[kenanb]

They shouldn't, hopefully. I used 1/2" air hose with a deep wall socket slipped over the end to mimic what the Hyd hose will be like when figuring out the routing and lengths.

On the valve, it's 3 work sections. First two have float, rear one is standard spring centered. I want to control the TnT cylinders with a joystick and both cylinders be able to float. So I got the optional joystick kit and it replaced the factory tops of the first two work sections and operated them both. The rear work section, I wanted the enclosed handle kit so 1) it's all enclosed to the elements and 2) so I'd be able to fab up any kind of screw in stick because I knew it would be back under the seat and would need to be some sort of hacked together custom stick.

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Hello. I am going to install rear remotes on my L3800. I really like your setup! I want to ask how the valves are working for you. Is there any internal leaking? Would you use the same valves again? Would it be possible for you to post a couple of pictures of the completed project that shows the hoses installed? Thank you.