Rear blade choose and weight

test123

New member
Dec 10, 2020
15
1
3
SE Wiscpnsin
Morning. Looking for advice on 2 related questions: choosing rear blade and making up for the rear weight i will loose when I remove the ballast box.

I have an LX2610 SUHSD with 60” lite material bucket / front loader, ballast box with about 500 lbs of field stone on rear hitch and BR 8749 R4 industrial rear tires.

Rear blade is to supplement snow removal efforts ( long gravel drive in SE Wisconsin) and other grading uses in nice weather.

my dealer suggests land RB1560 60” Rear blade $1,010.00 …. Or…. RB1660 60” Rear Blade $1,265.00

there is also a RB0560 that he didn’t quote that is much lighter (130 lbs vs 250/280 lbs).

Any experience or advice with of these?

I’m concerned about loosing the appx. 250 lbs I’d give up by removing ballast box and adding rear blade.

I have not plowed with OUT that ballast but it seems that is essential.

thoughts?

finally- how do I replace the appx 250 lbs when I remove the ballast box? Has anyone had success in aftermarket wheel wights? Other options?

thx in advance

Thanks for everyones responses, suggestions, advice, links and pix. Much appreciated. I think i replied to each.

overall:

1. does anyone have experience with finding/using rear wheel weights on a 2610?
2.in fairness to my salesperson—he is experienced on machineRyan.Imay have spec’d 60” wide when we 1st started talking.
3. absolutley looking for used but have not seen many =or been able to find the right one.
 

woodman55

Well-known member

Equipment
L6060HSTC, RTV 1100
May 15, 2022
758
548
93
canada
Have you considered a box blade ? You can't angle it, but it does hold the material much better for longer distances. Also it is better at rearward pushing, unless to swivel the back blade around. Plus box blades seem to be much more common for summer time use.
 
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chim

Well-known member

Equipment
L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
1,807
884
113
Near Lancaster, PA, USA
Obviously, replacing rear ballast weight with a heavy blade will work ONLY when the blade is raised. If you need ballast while the blade is being used, the weight needs to be on the tractor.

A rear blade is dead weight while in use, and the heavier the blade the more ballast you'll need.

For me, a rear blade has been useful for snow removal and rough-spreading topsoil and crushed stone. For those applications a light blade was fine. For grading a box blade worked well.
 

RMS

Well-known member

Equipment
LX2610HSDC, RCR1260, PFL1242, LX2963, RB1684, WC-68 Chipper,Flail Mower
Sep 26, 2021
188
308
63
Buckfield Maine
Thanks for everyones responses, suggestions, advice, links and pix. Much appreciated. I think i replied to each.

overall:

1. does anyone have experience with finding/using rear wheel weights on a 2610?
2.in fairness to my salesperson—he is experienced on machineRyan.Imay have spec’d 60” wide when we 1st started talking.
3. absolutley looking for used but have not seen many =or been able to find the right one.
I don't believe that there are any wheel weights for the lx other than liquid ballast in the tires.
 

sansrue65

New member

Equipment
LX2610
Dec 19, 2022
11
3
3
85641
It doesnt say anything about rear wheel weights in the manual. Only liqid ballast. That is the only option.
 

Foxrunfarms

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota LX2610, 1951 Farmall M, 1967 John Deere 110 Rf, 2010 Arctic Cat 700
Apr 25, 2023
365
519
93
WI
Nice to see another SE Wisconsiner on here. I also own a lx2610. This is just my opion but I'd never buy a new blade........just seem very light duty and all look/designed the same. Online you can find used ones but usually over priced(cheaper than the dealer though), beat up and rusty. At farm or consignment auctions these blades are given away. 50.00 to 175.00 sometimes. I got a heavy duty Dearborn 6 foot blade and did some work to it. It is heavier than the newer blades and I can tell it's on the tractor. I'm actually looking at getting rid of it for 300.00 obo. The only downfall of buying older stuff is it's not 100% quick hitch . It works but not just back up and go. I use mostly a box blade and that's even heavier than the rear blade.

20231129_082641~2.jpg
20231226_123217.jpg
 
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woodman55

Well-known member

Equipment
L6060HSTC, RTV 1100
May 15, 2022
758
548
93
canada
I agree about old back blades not being worth much. I have a mid 70"s Massey Ferguson six ft blade my parents bough new. I have asked dealers twice about trading it in, and both times they said, if you have any use for it at all, you are better off keeping it, as they are not worth much.

After almost 50 years it is still in great shape, so a good quality one will last forever. My Kubota dealer does not even stock them, as the few people who want them buy used.
 
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Foxrunfarms

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota LX2610, 1951 Farmall M, 1967 John Deere 110 Rf, 2010 Arctic Cat 700
Apr 25, 2023
365
519
93
WI
I agree about old back blades not being worth much. I have a mid 70"s Massey Ferguson six ft blade my parents bough new. I have asked dealers twice about trading it in, and both times they said, if you have any use for it at all, you are better off keeping it, as they are not worth much.

After almost 50 years it is still in great shape, so a good quality one will last forever. My Kubota dealer does not even stock them, as the few people who want them buy used.
I like to have 1 tool for multiple jobs. The box blade seemed ideal for dirt and snow.....pros and cons but for what I paid for the rear blade it can sit behind the barn until I need it. Or sell it for something bigger.
 
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madplanter

New member

Equipment
2620 w loader/backhoe/mower
Jan 8, 2024
15
4
3
Pa.
Morning. Looking for advice on 2 related questions: choosing rear blade and making up for the rear weight i will loose when I remove the ballast box.

I have an LX2610 SUHSD with 60” lite material bucket / front loader, ballast box with about 500 lbs of field stone on rear hitch and BR 8749 R4 industrial rear tires.

Rear blade is to supplement snow removal efforts ( long gravel drive in SE Wisconsin) and other grading uses in nice weather.

my dealer suggests land RB1560 60” Rear blade $1,010.00 …. Or…. RB1660 60” Rear Blade $1,265.00

there is also a RB0560 that he didn’t quote that is much lighter (130 lbs vs 250/280 lbs).

Any experience or advice with of these?

I’m concerned about loosing the appx. 250 lbs I’d give up by removing ballast box and adding rear blade.

I have not plowed with OUT that ballast but it seems that is essential.

thoughts?

finally- how do I replace the appx 250 lbs when I remove the ballast box? Has anyone had success in aftermarket wheel wights? Other options?

thx in advance
your tractor has no down pressure; the weight of the blade is then only thing making it scrape. Too light and it will be worthless for anything for harder material.
 

madplanter

New member

Equipment
2620 w loader/backhoe/mower
Jan 8, 2024
15
4
3
Pa.
I have a RB1684 on my LX2610. When I have it angled, I still get good coverage past my wheels (with 2.5" spacers). Not sure of the weight. I bought my speeco quick hitch from Good Works Tractors and I believe they have a weight bracket to fit on the quick hitch if you want to add more weight.
That tractor can actually handle a 6 foot scraper blade thats actually digging?
 

RMS

Well-known member

Equipment
LX2610HSDC, RCR1260, PFL1242, LX2963, RB1684, WC-68 Chipper,Flail Mower
Sep 26, 2021
188
308
63
Buckfield Maine
That tractor can actually handle a 6 foot scraper blade thats actually digging?
I use it primarily for snow and it works well. Especially with wet snow that the blower won't handle. Also used to drag snow away from the buildings. Haven't had a need to use it in dirt.
 
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FTG-05

Active member

Equipment
L4330 w/FEL, RTV-XG850 and ZD326S
Jul 21, 2013
248
91
28
TN
It doesnt say anything about rear wheel weights in the manual. Only liqid ballast. That is the only option.
No it isn't:






I also agree with MtnView's comments. 84" wide would be the minimum I would consider for a rear grader blade.

And, in fact, I made this decision several years ago for my Kubotal L4330 ~40 hp tractor. I chose the 96" (8') wide rear grader blade.

The downside is that I bought it from a no-name dealer out of North Dakota or someplace like that. My bet is there is no one here has ever heard of them.







 
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test123

New member
Dec 10, 2020
15
1
3
SE Wiscpnsin
Thanks for everyones responses, suggestions, advice, links and pix. Much appreciated. I think i replied to each.

overall:

1. does anyone have experience with finding/using rear wheel weights on a 2610?
2.in fairness to my salesperson—he is experienced on machineRyan.Imay have spec’d 60” wide when we 1st started talking.
3. absolutley looking for used but have not seen many =or been able to find the right one.
[/QUOTE
Thanks for everyones responses, suggestions, advice, links and pix. Much appreciated. I think i replied to each.

overall:

1. does anyone have experience with finding/using rear wheel weights on a 2610?
2.in fairness to my salesperson—he is experienced on machineRyan.Imay have spec’d 60” wide when we 1st started talking.
3. absolutley looking for used but have not seen many =or been able to find the right one.


Closing the loop on this thread. I ended up buying a Landpride RB1672 from my dealer, $1400 included tax and delivery. It is Much more $ than I wanted to spend but couldn‘t find anything used nearby. I was ready to buy from Everything Attachment which was recommended here but they are back ordered for 4 or 5 months. We probably wont get any more snow but I’ve already done a little driveway grading. Thanks again for everyone’s comments and suggestions.
 

fried1765

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
6,908
4,340
113
Eastham, Ma
No it isn't:






I also agree with MtnView's comments. 84" wide would be the minimum I would consider for a rear grader blade.

And, in fact, I made this decision several years ago for my Kubotal L4330 ~40 hp tractor. I chose the 96" (8') wide rear grader blade.

The downside is that I bought it from a no-name dealer out of North Dakota or someplace like that. My bet is there is no one here has ever heard of them.







"no one has ever heard of them" ????
Bad bet!

Everything Attachments "6 Way Deluxe Scrape Blade".......best built blade on the market....or sadly......it WAS the best built blade on the market.
I love mine, and this one is even built for the extension wings, which mine is not.
 

sansrue65

New member

Equipment
LX2610
Dec 19, 2022
11
3
3
85641
No it isn't:






I also agree with MtnView's comments. 84" wide would be the minimum I would consider for a rear grader blade.

And, in fact, I made this decision several years ago for my Kubotal L4330 ~40 hp tractor. I chose the 96" (8') wide rear grader blade.

The downside is that I bought it from a no-name dealer out of North Dakota or someplace like that. My bet is there is no one here has ever heard of them.







Dont know what tractor you have there but talking specificaly the LX2610, which i have. Does not take wheel weights. But im sure it can handle an 84" rear blade. I have a 72" from EA and it is plenty for what I do with it.
 

FTG-05

Active member

Equipment
L4330 w/FEL, RTV-XG850 and ZD326S
Jul 21, 2013
248
91
28
TN
"no one has ever heard of them" ????
Bad bet!

Everything Attachments "6 Way Deluxe Scrape Blade".......best built blade on the market....or sadly......it WAS the best built blade on the market.
I love mine, and this one is even built for the extension wings, which mine is not.
 
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Reactions: 1 user

FTG-05

Active member

Equipment
L4330 w/FEL, RTV-XG850 and ZD326S
Jul 21, 2013
248
91
28
TN
Dont know what tractor you have there but talking specificaly the LX2610, which i have. Does not take wheel weights. But im sure it can handle an 84" rear blade. I have a 72" from EA and it is plenty for what I do with it.
RIF:

" And, in fact, I made this decision several years ago for my Kubota L4330 ~40 hp tractor. I chose the 96" (8') wide rear grader blade. " (Also note that it's also listed right under my avatar).

And you missed the point about wheel weights: If there are none available; Make your own - like I did. No holes in your wheels? Drill with 5/8's or 3/4" drill bit will fix that. It's not hard.
 
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