Ratcheting Top Link and Levelling Recommendations?

[xlntech1]

Hi All,

I have a B2301 and I'm tired of how hard it is to adjust my box blade when grading. I was thinking it would be nice to have a ratcheting top link. Anyone have suggestions on that?

I'm also wondering if it's a bad idea to put an adjustable levelling arm on both leveling arms. It comes with only one from the factory but it seems like it would be easier to adjust both sides a little bit rather than adjusting one side a lot.

 

[85Hokie]

Hi All,

I have a B2301 and I'm tired of how hard it is to adjust my box blade when grading. I was thinking it would be nice to have a ratcheting top link. Anyone have suggestions on that?

I'm also wondering if it's a bad idea to put an adjustable levelling arm on both leveling arms. It comes with only one from the factory but it seems like it would be easier to adjust both sides a little bit rather than adjusting one side a lot.

You should not need two leveling arms......then again - it has been done before!

As for a top link......hydraulic is a way to go! - also - you can use a sliding top link, much like a HODGE stabilizer.......pull pin, move place pin back in!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Ratchating top link would be fine, but finding one that will fit you tractor might be tough.

Look at a TNT kit (Top and Tilt) thats the way to go.

Putting 2 adjustable side links on it can be done, (you'll have to make it), just not advisable.

 

[RCW]

All top links aren't created equal in my book.

I bought a replacement for my stock one from a Mahindra dealer, of all places. TSC has same stuff, just didn't have the shorter one I was looking for.

Adjustments are much easier.

 

[Corney]

All top links aren't created equal in my book.

I bought a replacement for my stock one from a Mahindra dealer, of all places. TSC has same stuff, just didn't have the shorter one I was looking for.

Adjustments are much easier.

That be ratcheting?

 

[xlntech1]

Ratchating top link would be fine, but finding one that will fit you tractor might be tough.

Look at a TNT kit (Top and Tilt) thats the way to go.

Putting 2 adjustable side links on it can be done, (you'll have to make it), just not advisable.

I don't have the hydraulic connections. I will cost me about $1000 to add hydraulic and it's not really worth that (though it would awesome).

 

[xlntech1]

Ratchating top link would be fine, but finding one that will fit you tractor might be tough.

Look at a TNT kit (Top and Tilt) thats the way to go.

Putting 2 adjustable side links on it can be done, (you'll have to make it), just not advisable.

Why isn't it advisable?

 

[Stubbyie]

Here's what I saw at an antique tractor show. No specifics, so might have to kind of figure things out.

Get a ratcheting type load binder and unscrew the hook ends. Shop around as different brands of binders have different body lengths and diameters.

Find right-hand and left-hand nuts (yeah, I know, but they do exist and are out there, somewhere--maybe Fastenal or McMaster-Carr (maybe Tractor Supply for, you know, tractors)) that match your threaded top-link ends.

Weld a nut onto each end of the body of the ratchet binder.

Screw the top-link ends into the nuts welded to the binder body.

I saw it, it worked. Owner wasn't there to ask questions. I know it was a ratchet load binder because, well, I know them, and the brand name on the handle was Lebus (may be off on spelling, don't know if they're still around except in my truck toolbox, may have folded into Columbus-McKinnon, Peerless, or one of the other few chain-and-hoist names still around).

Come to think of it, just cut off the hook-ends and weld a replacement ball (Tractor Supply) onto the ratchet binder's existing RH- and LH-threaded shaft.

Please post back your continuing experiences if any so we may all learn.

 

[mendonsy]

The problem with a ratchet is that they are made to work in one direction. A top link needs to support force in both directions. When the attachment is lifted the top link is in tension to hold it up, when it is lowered the top link is in compression to maintain level.

 

[xlntech1]

The problem with a ratchet is that they are made to work in one direction. A top link needs to support force in both directions. When the attachment is lifted the top link is in tension to hold it up, when it is lowered the top link is in compression to maintain level.

I'm talking about a ratchet to turn the turnbuckle. Imagine just taking a normal top link and (if you could) attaching a ratcheting box-end wrench to it so you can turn the housing using a ratchet action. I have found one but it's too long for my tractor. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/TL175_Ratchet-Top-Link_10890.htm

I haven't been able to find a 20"-28" version of that.

 

[85Hokie]

Hi All,

I have a B2301 and I'm tired of how hard it is to adjust my box blade when grading. I was thinking it would be nice to have a ratcheting top link. Anyone have suggestions on that?

I'm also wondering if it's a bad idea to put an adjustable levelling arm on both leveling arms. It comes with only one from the factory but it seems like it would be easier to adjust both sides a little bit rather than adjusting one side a lot.

Let me ask you this, when you are changing the attack angle on the box blade, you sitting in the seat? Can you reach the top link? On my old 53' ford, I could rest the blade down spin the top link easy from the seat, raise and low it again and adjust again and with a couple easy turns and you are in business, now if you are off the tractor....I get it!

Now as for having both side go up and down, here is one problem with that, typically the left side is fixed (looking from rear) and the right side is movable - so a person can spin around and use the dominate hand and adjust, the left side is set at 0 so to speak so that the right can go up and down more or less equal from the "zero" point. IF BOTH were adjustable, then some point down the line the left one would be way off zero - and then your range of motion would become far less in one direction and more in the other, almost to a point where you are extending both or shorting both at the same time.

In theory it would be nice - in practicality it would take more time. And if you ever had one fall off because you spun to the last few teeth.....you will understand the frustration of adjusting both!

 

[xlntech1]

Let me ask you this, when you are changing the attack angle on the box blade, you sitting in the seat? Can you reach the top link? On my old 53' ford, I could rest the blade down spin the top link easy from the seat, raise and low it again and adjust again and with a couple easy turns and you are in business, now if you are off the tractor....I get it!

Now as for having both side go up and down, here is one problem with that, typically the left side is fixed (looking from rear) and the right side is movable - so a person can spin around and use the dominate hand and adjust, the left side is set at 0 so to speak so that the right can go up and down more or less equal from the "zero" point. IF BOTH were adjustable, then some point down the line the left one would be way off zero - and then your range of motion would become far less in one direction and more in the other, almost to a point where you are extending both or shorting both at the same time.

In theory it would be nice - in practicality it would take more time. And if you ever had one fall off because you spun to the last few teeth.....you will understand the frustration of adjusting both!

I can't reach it from the seat without trashing my back. So every time I adjust I have to jump off. I do the same thing you are talking about, drop it, adjust until tight, raise/drop, adjust. Just seems like a handle/ratchet shouldn't be this hard to find for something that gets really hard to turn but has to be turned fairly often.

Thanks for the thoughts on having two adjustable levelers.

 

[Daren Todd]

Take your top link apart and take one of the end pieces to tractor supply. Might be the same thread size and pitch as one of there ratchet style binders they make some with a folding handle that you could bungee to keep the handle out of the way


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[mendonsy]

I'm talking about a ratchet to turn the turnbuckle. Imagine just taking a normal top link and (if you could) attaching a ratcheting box-end wrench to it so you can turn the housing using a ratchet action. I have found one but it's too long for my tractor. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/TL175_Ratchet-Top-Link_10890.htm

I haven't been able to find a 20"-28" version of that.

OK, now I understand what you are doing! GearWrench makes a 2" box end ratchet wrench that might do what you need. Expensive though!

 

[xlntech1]

It's just so frustrating because it seems like such a no-brainer.

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Customized-Tractor-Top-link-ratchet-assembly_60301237866.html

Too bad they only sell in lots of 30.

 

[mendonsy]

I saw a "request sample" on that web page. Maybe they would send you one???

 

[kckndrgn]

I think I saw one of those at my local Tractor Supply store today. Didn't think much of it, but I can't find it on their website. I have to go back tonight or tomorrow and I'll double check and take a picture of it and try to get their part number.

 

[Lennyzx11]

I was in our Atwoods today and they had these on the shelf. It was made by Speeco.


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[D2Cat]

That ratcheting link is a common item at a farm store. They are use frequently to make adjustments to a brush mower cutting height if a cyl. is not in place.

I have one hanging in the barn because I installed a hyd. cylinder to connect to a remote to adjust the mower if I'm in a rocky area. Pulling/pushing a lever is quicker/safer then cranking!!

 

[GWD]

The problem with a ratchet is that they are made to work in one direction. A top link needs to support force in both directions. When the attachment is lifted the top link is in tension to hold it up, when it is lowered the top link is in compression to maintain level.

Actually, the ratcheting chain load binder ratchets in both directions. Otherwise, you'd be SOL when cinching down a tractor on a trailer. They come with a variety of ends.

While you are correct about them working in the tension direction, there is no reason that it would be a problem in the compression direction if they had the correct ends.

http://www.truckntow.com/cargo-control/load-binders.html?p=2

Then, cut off the ends and weld on a top link ball end.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-top-link-end?cm_vc=-10005

Disclaimer: I've never done it but it certainly could work.