We had a guy who worked at our kubota dealership do our 50 hour service about a year ago. He did it on the side which is going to haunt us. Jumping forward to this afternoon. I started the tractor and the low oil pressure light came on. I ran it for a couple of minutes to see if it would go away and it didn’t. The moor started knocking so I shut it down immediately. Checked the oil level and it was dry as a bone. Got under the machine and both plugs were loose and leaking. I torqued the plugs and changed the oil and started it back up to see how it sounded. Sounds fine at low rpms, but the knocking got louder and eventually started squeezing so I shut it right back down. I’m guessing the motor has singnificant damage. Why did the low oil pressure light not come on until today? Doesn’t seem like much of a warning if the damage is already being done when shows up on the dash. Anyone know what likely was damaged and how much the repairs might be?
Ran L3200 with no oil, now what?
- Thread starter KBorange
- Start date
OUCH!
A wild guess, "everything", costly.
You never know until you pull it down, you may be lucky and get away with a hone, rings and bearings, or you may be unlucky and it being a huge cost. So had it run previously with no oil, meaning the last time it was run?
Was there 5 litres of oil on the ground/
Oil light comes on with a Kubota or anything else, shut it down immediately. Running it for two minutes after you noticed the light on--yeah, the guy who serviced it screwed up, but this is on you, too. End result doesn't sound good. I wish you the best of luck.
Ohh yeah I agree, definitely on me. I just don’t understand a warning light that doesn’t come on until the damage has already started taking place. Isn’t the point of a warning light to give you a heads up that the oil is getting low? Not wait until it’s bone dry. On every mercury outboard motor I have it sends an alarm if the oil pressure is just barely low. Seems like such an easy thing a major tractor manufacturer could have done to prevent accidents. Hell even put a switch in series with the sensor that opens up when oil pressure drops and shuts the engine off.
I would say between the last time you used it and this time enough oil leaked out that it was below the oil pickup. The light doesn't come on for low oil, but for low oil pressure.
Oil pressure light is only to signify low pressure NOT low oil volume. Even with low oil volume the pressure light (typically set at around 5 psi) will remain off until the volume is low enough for where the oil pump can no longer pick up the oil.
My guess based on your description is the crank and rod bearings are gone. At a minimum the crank will need to be fixed along with new bearings. Since you continued to run the engine without oil the crank will likely need to be turned undersized.
The oil dipstick is used to check oil volume.
My guess based on your description is the crank and rod bearings are gone. At a minimum the crank will need to be fixed along with new bearings. Since you continued to run the engine without oil the crank will likely need to be turned undersized.
The oil dipstick is used to check oil volume.
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Just dropped it off at my buddies deisel shop. He's one of the best diesel mechanics in the state. Doesn't usually work on tractors, but told me it shouldn't be a problem. I'm fearing the worse, hoping for the best. Anyone know a ball park cost on a complete rebuild? Or even the price of a new oem engine?
Not to kick a dead horse but look at what has been said.
The oil pressure light came on as soon as it was started which is normal. But normally it goes out in a couple seconds, not waiting for 2 minutes. It had no way of warning you about the low oil because the engine wasn't running, it was dry just sitting there. The warning system did everything it could do to give the heads up about the pressure.
Now had it been running when you lost oil and didn't come on that would be a different story all together. This will be a costly lesson for you and a reminder for the rest of us as to how important it is to check the oil before we crank.
Some cars used to have an oil level warning indicator or light. It is/was a sensor that went into the side of the oil pan. Well due to the heat involved in the 200+ degree heat, the oil itself, and other things, they were unreliable. They'd leak. And when they did, the only way to fix them was to remove the oil pan, which meant removal of the engine....and that meant expensive, for both consumer and in warranty costs. Warranty repairs cost everyone, so that drives the cost of the car up a little. You get the idea. Oil PRESSURE indicators are just that...they turn the light on if pressure drops below 5-7 psi. Normally by the time the light comes on in the dash, it's too late...the pressure is down for a reason, and you have seconds to shut it down before damage occurs if it hasn't already.
Tractors aren't much different.
It is imperative to check the oil level fairly often. If nothing else, a dropping oil level is indicative or usage or leaking-both of which aren't good obviously. A oil level that rises is indicative of other issues as well. If it's not checked often enough, how do you know what's going on with the engine?
I hate that this stuff happens. Side work can be a way to save a dollar but occasionally ends up costing two. Out of curiousity do you have insurance on it? Might be worth calling about it....may or may not help you with it, but if they don't, you tried and you won't know unless you ask. I bet the person who did the side job feels absolutely horrible. I sure would.
There is always the option of lawsuit that so many people seem to want to take nowadays. I'd be surprised if an attorney hasn't already contacted you.
New engine for that tractor is roughly $4200. An overhaul could cost that much depending on how bad it is internally.
Tractors aren't much different.
It is imperative to check the oil level fairly often. If nothing else, a dropping oil level is indicative or usage or leaking-both of which aren't good obviously. A oil level that rises is indicative of other issues as well. If it's not checked often enough, how do you know what's going on with the engine?
I hate that this stuff happens. Side work can be a way to save a dollar but occasionally ends up costing two. Out of curiousity do you have insurance on it? Might be worth calling about it....may or may not help you with it, but if they don't, you tried and you won't know unless you ask. I bet the person who did the side job feels absolutely horrible. I sure would.
There is always the option of lawsuit that so many people seem to want to take nowadays. I'd be surprised if an attorney hasn't already contacted you.
New engine for that tractor is roughly $4200. An overhaul could cost that much depending on how bad it is internally.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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So oil has been leaking possibly for a year, since last service, a year earlier, and you've never seen a puddle of oil or a leak?
Oil level has not been checked often?
As others have pointed out, Oil pressure lights reflect loss of oil pressure not low oil level.
Light means stop, not keep running and hope it goes away.
Rebuilt engine would run about $3500 and about $1500 for labor for install.
Rebuild kit will run about $1500 and crank about $1000 and labor for install and rebuild about $2500.
So either option will cost you about the same about $5000 if your lucky.
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In the early 70s when automobile companies we***8217;re moving away from oil pressure gauges to oil pressure warning lights, the pressure warning light were commonly known as idiot lights.
If not checked at start up and light bulb burns out with associated loss of no oil pressure warning. I was surprised to see my new Kubota B2650 with cab and all the bells and whistles does not have a oil pressure gauge only the idiot light.
One of my first projects will be to install a oil pressure gauge and voltmeter, right after installation of the hooks on my FEL and wheel spacers
If not checked at start up and light bulb burns out with associated loss of no oil pressure warning. I was surprised to see my new Kubota B2650 with cab and all the bells and whistles does not have a oil pressure gauge only the idiot light.
One of my first projects will be to install a oil pressure gauge and voltmeter, right after installation of the hooks on my FEL and wheel spacers
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Smokeless
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Amen. I am a new L 3901 owner and after a learning curve (primarily regen) i really like this tractor. Might have looked closer at 2501 and no regen, but we are settling in.
However, one of my first observations was no oil gage. Would prefer a volt meter as well. Kubotas are well respected, but adding oil gage could easily potentially save an engine. But then again i am old school
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baronetm
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Oil pressure gauge, Do NOT assume the oil pressure gauge in all vehicles is an actual pressure gauge showing you the actual oil pressure developed by the oil pump in conjunction with the resistance of pushing oil thru your engines oil galleries, bearing, rings etc.
I have a 2004 Dodge Cummins with 120k miles, last fall all of a sudden driving down the road my oil pressure warning light came on, it also has a factory installed gauge, a useless option I purchased with the truck I find now, it went to Zero also. I immediately pulled over shut the engine down and pulled the dip stick, full of oil, restarted the truck and the oil pressure gauge read normal for 10 seconds then to Zero, the dash warning light and alarm also came back on. Because it sounded normal and it was full of oil and appeared electrical I gambled on running home, about 6 miles for more diagnostics with a real gauge tapped off the oil filter housing test port, 70 psi hot.
The gauge is a smart idiot light, it means nothing. The dash warning light with audible alarm is the true oil pressure sensor readout, run off a 30 dollar oil pressure sending unit. Neither of which really tell you of actual oil pressure, its status is either on or off depending on oil pressure or sensor failure.
The idiot oil pressure gauge shows a higher oil pressure 65-70 psi when the engine is cold and after the ECM sensors see the engine at a certain temperature the oil pressure gauge drops to 40-50 psi. It gives you a false sense of knowledge of knowing what your expensive engine is actually doing and only mimics what you would assume your oil pressure is in a hot engine. So plumb in an actual oil pressure gauge with a hose running to a test port, it will give you true pressure readings on any vehicle.
Just for your information.
I have a 2004 Dodge Cummins with 120k miles, last fall all of a sudden driving down the road my oil pressure warning light came on, it also has a factory installed gauge, a useless option I purchased with the truck I find now, it went to Zero also. I immediately pulled over shut the engine down and pulled the dip stick, full of oil, restarted the truck and the oil pressure gauge read normal for 10 seconds then to Zero, the dash warning light and alarm also came back on. Because it sounded normal and it was full of oil and appeared electrical I gambled on running home, about 6 miles for more diagnostics with a real gauge tapped off the oil filter housing test port, 70 psi hot.
The gauge is a smart idiot light, it means nothing. The dash warning light with audible alarm is the true oil pressure sensor readout, run off a 30 dollar oil pressure sending unit. Neither of which really tell you of actual oil pressure, its status is either on or off depending on oil pressure or sensor failure.
The idiot oil pressure gauge shows a higher oil pressure 65-70 psi when the engine is cold and after the ECM sensors see the engine at a certain temperature the oil pressure gauge drops to 40-50 psi. It gives you a false sense of knowledge of knowing what your expensive engine is actually doing and only mimics what you would assume your oil pressure is in a hot engine. So plumb in an actual oil pressure gauge with a hose running to a test port, it will give you true pressure readings on any vehicle.
Just for your information.
Smokeless
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3901/Loader/Rear Blade/Box Blade/LP Mower/Pallet forks IH M,,Cub & sickle mower