PTO Driveline replacement

[bpdaniels]

Hello,
I have a B2761 quick hitch/subframe I use for a front end snowblower attachment. I made a bone-headed mistake this year, when I swapped out the belly mower and attached the subframe, I forgot to attach the driveline to the mid pto shaft and drove off. Needless to say it ben the driveline pretty good, and in two directions (not easily straightened).

Although the part # I need on page 3 of the attached parts manual is 70060-01147, it would be easiest to replace the entire driveline, part # 70001-00623. Best I could find OEM is nearly $400 for the driveline, and $250 for the one component.

Wondering if anyone has found an aftermarket for this part(s)? Weasler?

Thank you.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Your very very unlikely to find aftermarket on these parts.

 

[bpdaniels]

That's what I thought. Thank you.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Any good 'fab' shop CAN straighten the shafts out. Heck I've seen a farmboy use a 6" vice and pipe to 'fine tune similar problems.

 

[bpdaniels]

Well, I took it to a fab shop that specializes in driveline repairs, and they said they could 'try' to straighten it, but because it is bent in two directions, could not 'guarantee' they could get it to an acceptable tolerance. Hence my looking for an alternative.

My concern is that if it isn't, it will eventually damage the PTO seal, bearings, etc., and I will have wished I paid full retail for the part.

Thank you for your reply.

 

[kubotasam]

When you had it at the driveline shop did you ask about replacing the tube? Cutting the ends off and replacing the tube is something they should be able to do. I had a shaft repaired like that a few years back. The cut it, replaced the tube and balanced it. It was not cheap, however it was less than the cost of a new shaft.

 

[cthomas]

I had to replace just the tubes on my late fathers JD tractor as those green bastards wanted $1800 for a new driveshaft for the front wheels. Did this while I was working at a driveshaft shop. Did have to buy 2 sections of metric splined tube. Still use one section as a cheater bar for my ratchet.

 

[Matt Ellerbee]

When you had it at the driveline shop did you ask about replacing the tube? Cutting the ends off and replacing the tube is something they should be able to do. I had a shaft repaired like that a few years back. The cut it, replaced the tube and balanced it. It was not cheap, however it was less than the cost of a new shaft.

I just did that recently at work.

Turned out not terribly wobbly too.

 

[DustyRusty]

Is it a solid shaft or a tube? If it is a tube most driveline shops will cut it off in the lathe and then weld the ends to the tube and balance it. Cost is a factor that I can't guess which way would be less expensive.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hello,
I have a B2761 quick hitch/subframe I use for a front end snowblower attachment. I made a bone-headed mistake this year, when I swapped out the belly mower and attached the subframe, I forgot to attach the driveline to the mid pto shaft and drove off. Needless to say it ben the driveline pretty good, and in two directions (not easily straightened).

Although the part # I need on page 3 of the attached parts manual is 70060-01147, it would be easiest to replace the entire driveline, part # 70001-00623. Best I could find OEM is nearly $400 for the driveline, and $250 for the one component.

Wondering if anyone has found an aftermarket for this part(s)? Weasler?

Thank you.

Your bone head mistake can be fixed for a measly $275/$400? Pay the piper.

Dan

 

[Dustball]

I was able to buy all of the parts (Weasler) to build a new fixed length mid-PTO shaft for my B2650 and bring them to a driveline shop to have them build it for me. The old parts had 900 hours on them and were worn out. In the end, it ended up being a little more than buying the whole shaft new from Kubota.

 

[DustyRusty]

I was able to buy all of the parts (Weasler) to build a new fixed length mid-PTO shaft for my B2650 and bring them to a driveline shop to have them build it for me. The old parts had 900 hours on them and were worn out. In the end, it ended up being a little more than buying the whole shaft new from Kubota.

Did you figure out that this was going to cost more before you made your purchase or only after you acquired all the parts? The reason I ask, is if it is more expensive the way that you went, then why didn't you purchase a Kubota shaft and be done quicker with less running around? After the driveline ship does its work, how much more expensive is the whole project going to be versus a new Kubota shaft? Are the components you purchased a better quality than the OEM shaft?

 

[mikester]

Did you figure out that this was going to cost more before you made your purchase or only after you acquired all the parts? The reason I ask, is if it is more expensive the way that you went, then why didn't you purchase a Kubota shaft and be done quicker with less running around? After the driveline ship does its work, how much more expensive is the whole project going to be versus a new Kubota shaft? Are the components you purchased a better quality than the OEM shaft?

Labour and shop rate isn't free in the western world. There's even a cost to my own free labour in tools and shop time.

 

[DustyRusty]

Labour and shop rate isn't free in the western world. There's even a cost to my own free labour in tools and shop time.

Never said anything about it being free. I don't understand your quoting my post and your comments.

 

[Dustball]

Did you figure out that this was going to cost more before you made your purchase or only after you acquired all the parts? The reason I ask, is if it is more expensive the way that you went, then why didn't you purchase a Kubota shaft and be done quicker with less running around? After the driveline ship does its work, how much more expensive is the whole project going to be versus a new Kubota shaft? Are the components you purchased a better quality than the OEM shaft?

I had about $180 into parts and shiping. What I didn't know was how much the driveline shop would charge which ended up being $250. I was thinking it'd be $150-$200 but the driveline shop had difficulty with securing the smaller than normal Kubota parts in his machinery. In the end, I paid about $20 more than what I would have paid purchasing from a Kubota dealer but at least mine is balanced.

The parts I have are the same as OEM since Kubota uses Weasler parts for the driveline. I hate paying Kubota/dealer prices for parts so I try finding the actual manufacturers or alternatives whenever possible so I'm not reliant on Kubota.

I'll get the new shaft back into my hands next week. I'll take pictures showing the old vs new parts side by side. The only difference is that the new slip yoke is a bit longer than the original which is perfectly fine to me. Longer = less sloppiness on the splined shaft.

Shared parts for the mid PTO fixed length shaft

Tube
1.5" dia tube
33.5" weld to weld (for my particular shaft)
Weasler 604-0600 for 3 ft or 602-0600 6 ft

Weld on Fixed Yoke
For 1.5" dia tube
Kubota 70060-01148
Weasler 702-0600

Spring yoke
Kubota 70060-02803
0.984 (25mm) x 10 splines
Weasler 105-0610

Slip yoke
1" x 15 splines
Kubota 70060-01148
Weasler 812-0615

U-Joint
Cap diameter .965"(31/32")
Outside width 2.300" (2-9/32)
Kubota 70060-01020
Weasler 6 series 200-0600
Weasler 6 series extended life 201-0600
Moog 861
ACDELCO 45U6001

Bearing (on subframe)
1"ID
5/8" bolts (.650" hole), 3.90" spacing (must check when ordering)
Kubota 70060-00387
Actual mfg and pn- FK Bearing UCFL205-16
NTN UCFL205-100D1
FAG UCFL205-16-J7
Shuster UCFL205-16