New rear hitch and more!

[Dieselbob]

Picture 1 shows my new trailer hitch setup with an optional 80 LBS of counterweight added. My buddy gave me the weights, which are from sort of exercise machine. It also has a six way plug that when plugged into a jumper harness with a flasher relay to my power port on the back of the tractor, allows all of the lights on my utility trailers to flash. This is helpful because I often have to venture out onto a busy road to get between properties. The guts of the hitch was originally a Reese receiver salvaged from a 1977 IH Scout.

Pic 2 shows the hitch with my optional cast iron weight block installed in the receiver. I don't know what the cast block WAS, but I got it at a farm auction for $5 and added the hitch attachment.

Pic 3 shows the hitch with my newly built V-ripper attachment.

 

[olthumpa]

Really like the ripper attachment idea, steal it I mean borrow it.

just realized that that I have been stealing the wrong steel for a while.

 

[Dieselbob]

I stole the idea of using the hitch to attach the V-ripper to the tractor from somebody here, so I guess we are all a bunch of thieves!

 

[pendoreille]

How did you rig the electric brakes to trailer. (picture 1)

 

[Dieselbob]

I didn't do anything with the brakes. I mounted the 6 way recepticle on the hitch. I have a 12 volt power outlet I put on the back of the tractor. I made a jumper harness that provides power to the tail/marker pin on the 6 way recepticle. I wired a two prong flasher relay into the jumper harness. When I power up my 12 volt outlet via the switch on the dash, the tail and marker lights on the trailer blink.

 

[pendoreille]

got it thanks....was thinking electric brakes

 

[Dieselbob]

You COULD use the same basic principle for a trailer brake circuit. Put a spring loaded switch on your dash and run a dedicated power wire to the back of the tractor, and jumper it into the brake power circuit on the trailer recepticle. For slow tractor speeds, that should produce satisfactory results.

 

[Tooljunkie]

I like it. Should work well. Mine has two more pockets for 2x2 5 foot tubes, for moving pallets and stuff. I have had 600 lbs on the back, just barely carries it. Thats really all i need. The reciever is handy for all sorts of things. Like a vise or a toolbox for certain situations.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You COULD use the same basic principle for a trailer brake circuit. Put a spring loaded switch on your dash and run a dedicated power wire to the back of the tractor, and jumper it into the brake power circuit on the trailer recepticle. For slow tractor speeds, that should produce satisfactory results.

It will work, but it will also put you into the steering wheel as it will lock the trailer brakes up.
The brake controller pulses the signal to the brakes to make them slide and not grab.

 

[Dieselbob]

Well, maybe you could use some sort of reostat to dial down the braking power to a lesser level. Given the choice between eating the steering wheel and getting shoved down the hill by a trailer, I think I would chose option one. Neither of the trailers I use behind my tractor have brakes, otherwise, I would be willing to do some engineering tests.

 

[olthumpa]

Use a pendulum brake controllers with mechanical gain that you can slide.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/towing/equipment/protective-towing/brake-controllers1.htm

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I wouldn't try and re-inventing the wheel just buy one of these and mount it on the tractor.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Journey-HD-...-2-to-8-Brake-Systems-52740-USA-/151577328166

 

[olthumpa]

I wouldn't try and re-inventing the wheel just buy one of these and mount it on the tractor.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Journey-HD-...-2-to-8-Brake-Systems-52740-USA-/151577328166

That is exactly what I was talking about, the old style manual units.