So it's 49 degrees this afternoon and I needed to move a trailer full of decomposing hay to my garden site to use as cover and I use my L 3301. This tractor is new and I just logged 14 hours on the meter. Unhooked the trailer and started back up the hill to return the tractor to the shed when a couple of lights started to flash on the right side of the dash. Looking on the decal on the left fender it shows that the Regeneration and engine rpm lights are the flashing lights. What the heck; 14hrs ? The fuel cap hasn't even been off the tank, how could any crud be in the system? Any advice?
New L 3301 problem
- Thread starter sparky45
- Start date
So if ur not kidding about what that means? It needs a dpf regent so u rev it up until the rpm light goes out and the dpf regen light will quit flashing and stay on solid. Do not touch anything now. Either keep driving it or let it sit at that rpm until the dpf light goes out and then ur back to normal operations. I assume ur dealer told u this?
It was telling you it needed to do a Regen on the dpf. That has nothing to do with the fuel cap being off or “crud” in the fuel system. You need to raise the rpms and work the tractor to allow it to burn the soot build up in the dpf.
Thank you for the kind replies gents, and you must be kidding about the dealer telling me about the "regen". When I bought my L3301( I went to the dealerhip and sat on the tractor and discussed it with the salesman) it was a nice sunny day and decided on the tractor. When it was delivered and I signed for it, we were in a downpour situation. Long story short, the tractor delivered wasn't the tractor I sat on and thought I was buying. The tractor I received was over a year old and had been outside in the elements during that time. Even though it was a 2017 model I was "sold" a 2018 tractor. Has something to do with when a tractor is put in service. At any rate, maybe the "regen" is a response to setting so long. So, no, the dealer didn't tell me about any "regens".
Sparky, the regens are a part of normal operations for these tractors. Read this thread, there is a printable set of directions as a pdf file that is easier to understand than the owners manual. But whatever you do don't ignore those lights on your dash! The thread is in a sticky at the top of the Operating forum where your thread is.
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28108
Holler if you have more questions.
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28108
Holler if you have more questions.
Regen has nothing to do with the tractor sitting either. Don’t mean to sound like an a$$, but you need to read up on the emission system your tractor has. Sorry to hear that your dealer did you that way. Aside from not selling you the tractor you sat on,(which may be common in n the tractor world, not common in my world on the automotive side). But they should have at least told you about operating it. The soot build up is just normal operation in a Diesel engine. So many variables in the amount of build up and frequency of regens that you will experience. I don’t have a dpf equipped tractor, but 14 hrs for a Regen doesn’t seem that far off. If you didn’t let it complete the Regen then you need to. You should be able to make it do a parked Regen if nothing else.
Hope they at least gave you the manual for the tractor. Read up on the dpf operation!
So, are you in Sedan, France, South Australia or Kansas?
I guess that since you are having DPF problems that it is probably Kansas.
FordTech. Over the years I have had more than one car dealer try the old "Bait and Switch" tactic of doing exactly the same thing.
The last time was in 2010 where the salesman promised me that I would not be getting the "Demo" that they had used for many months. But sure enough, when they were giving me the papers to sign, I checked the VIN and it WAS the Demo. Now if I had not written the VIN number of the demo down, I would have been stuck with it.
This was a new car at a major dealership. When I refused to accept the car, the Sales Manager tried to act like I had to accept the car anyway. I went to another dealer in a city close by and bought from them. I reported the other dealer to the BBB and to that brand's regional manager.
I guess that since you are having DPF problems that it is probably Kansas.
FordTech. Over the years I have had more than one car dealer try the old "Bait and Switch" tactic of doing exactly the same thing.
The last time was in 2010 where the salesman promised me that I would not be getting the "Demo" that they had used for many months. But sure enough, when they were giving me the papers to sign, I checked the VIN and it WAS the Demo. Now if I had not written the VIN number of the demo down, I would have been stuck with it.
This was a new car at a major dealership. When I refused to accept the car, the Sales Manager tried to act like I had to accept the car anyway. I went to another dealer in a city close by and bought from them. I reported the other dealer to the BBB and to that brand's regional manager.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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If he bought it new from a dealer, it came with the "Operator's Manual" I am sure.
What he did not do as everyone on here tells ALL new owners is:"Read the manual and read it again, and again!"
DPF regen frequency varies widely between models and how they are operated. The information Sheepfarmer put together is a good read, and highly recommended.
There are several threads here about the L01 series, one of which I believe had ballbark 15 hours between regens. My L4060 averages 57 hours between regens, but it’s really comparing apple to oranges between models.
The generally considered best practice is to keep the rpms up on dpf equipped machines, and to not idle for extended periods. I keep the rpms at 1500 or so, and shut down if I’m not using the tractor for 5 or 10 minutes.
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There are several threads here about the L01 series, one of which I believe had ballbark 15 hours between regens. My L4060 averages 57 hours between regens, but it’s really comparing apple to oranges between models.
The generally considered best practice is to keep the rpms up on dpf equipped machines, and to not idle for extended periods. I keep the rpms at 1500 or so, and shut down if I’m not using the tractor for 5 or 10 minutes.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
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To answer a few questions:
Yes; Kansas
Yes; I got the manual with the tractor
Yes; I read the manual but in fairness I didn't think @ 14 hrs I'd need to do a Regen
Yes; Regen is complete and all the flashing lights are off.
No; dealer DIDN'T explain the "Regen" system.
Thanks to all respondents, even those who think I'm an idiot. Not new to tractors, just new to the DPF thing. Now I know.
Yes; Kansas
Yes; I got the manual with the tractor
Yes; I read the manual but in fairness I didn't think @ 14 hrs I'd need to do a Regen
Yes; Regen is complete and all the flashing lights are off.
No; dealer DIDN'T explain the "Regen" system.
Thanks to all respondents, even those who think I'm an idiot. Not new to tractors, just new to the DPF thing. Now I know.
Sparky, sometimes the internet can be helpful and sometimes it's a pain in the ...posterior! Don't let comments run you off. Pay close attention to Sheepfarmers help with the regen stuff. She is detail oriented and explains things so they can be understood.
If you have more questions come right back with them, you'll get good answers (most of the time).
If you have more questions come right back with them, you'll get good answers (most of the time).
I agree...14 hours seems pretty early. If, in those 14 hours, you had a lot of low RPM or idling time, that will cause the regenerations to occur more frequently. I bought a brand-new MX4800 tractor this past summer, and the first regen was at 37 hours. I run the tractor basically wide-open cutting fields with a flail mower...I thought 37 hours was premature.
I've owned a few modern Ford and RAM diesel pickups that perform DPF regenerations, so I was already familiar with the process. To me, it doesn't seem like it makes a lot of sense to burn extra fuel to incinerate carcinogenic material in order to save the planet, by hey...what do I know!
You need a new dealer.
Sounds like your dealer took advantage of you by unloading an "aged inventory" tractor on you. Such tractors have additional incentives from Kubota, which he likely pocketed.
That said, the aging has nothing to do with your regeneration issue unless your tractor was demoed repetitively during the inventory period without substantial run time or regeneration prior to delivery.
More than likely, your battery will fail prematurely as well.
SDT
When the tractor was delivered, it did have over 4 hrs on the meter; don't know if that would have been a contributing factor, but 4 hrs of idling or puttering around might be a reason though.
Thanks everyone for your input. I have learned my lesson concerning this dealer. It's a good tractor (I think) just to early to have any problems IMO.
Thanks everyone for your input. I have learned my lesson concerning this dealer. It's a good tractor (I think) just to early to have any problems IMO.
The early battery fail comment was a good one. Not long ago my B7800 would crank but not fire. After a lot of time messing with it the problem turned out to be the battery. Although it would crank just not robustly enough. New battery solved the problem, in all honesty the battery was >10 years old. Diesels have their quirks.
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beaterboss
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Sparky, my 3901 did its first regen at 17 hours. But working it harder through the Winter has extended those hours to 32 and 44 hours between regens. I try not to let it idle below 1500rpm for any amount of time except for warm-up. (warm-up is AT 1500rpm). Regens are pretty uneventful, and I just keep right on working, waiting for the light to go out. No issues as of yet, and Kubota seems to have a good reputation for their EPA Mandated systems. Time will certainly tell. I WAS worried about the extreme cold weather up here, and how the regen's would be affected, but it doesnt seem to make much of a difference. Run it hot and hard, and work the thing. Thats what it's made for.