Massey 1010- cracked bell housing from loader attachment

[Rosher18]

Hi all,

This isn't about a Kubota so I put it in "Off-topic", even though the tractor is orange and it's my in-laws' tractor.

I was replacing the water pump and oil pump and found a massive crack in the left side bell housing, right where the Bush Hog 1846 QT loader attaches.

What's the fix for this? I have heard that aluminum castings don't really like to be welded but this is a solid tractor with 2142 hours on it and I don't want them to have to buy a new one.

If this needs to be moved to a different sub-forum, please let me know.

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[Newlyme]

How old is it? Maybe you can find a used bellhousing?

Best of luck to you. Please let us know the outcome.

 

[Newlyme]

Even to attempt to weld it properly it would have to come out.

 

[Daren Todd]

Usually the bell housing is cast into the engine block and not a separate piece that's replaceable. If it's the transmission side of the engine, you would need to replace the case most likely.

Either way, it's not gonna be an easy fix. Pulling the engine and taking to a good reputable welding and fab shaft may work as far as fixing the bell housing.

But the other issue is why it cracked in the first place. I'm not sure on the Bush Hog loader, but the woods subframe for the Massey 1010 didn't have much support for the loader. It attached most likely to a similar spot on the side of the engine and then to the back axle. Then had a piece that bolted to the front of the tractor. The woods loader I have on my L1501 came off from a Massey 1010 and came with the existing subframe. Which I had to modify heavily

So, after fixing the cracked bell housing, your gonna have to figure out a way to strengthen the subframe so it relieves the pressure off the bell housing.

When I modified the subframe to attach to my L1501, I made a cross member that bolted to the bottom of the transmission and the side of the bell housing on the engine. It also attsched to the subframe that went down each side of the tractor.

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[SidecarFlip]

All I can say is WOW. Looks like it's Massively junk to me. Your in-lws ever wash that thing?

 

[D2Cat]

It appears to be a fairly recent crack. Like Daren said, the fix will be time consuming to take apart, find applicable components, and put back together. Then be sure to reinforce the mounting hardware.

That's a sad situation!

 

[BigG]

Looking at the pictures and the information you gave I would guess it would be less expensive to replace the machine. It looks like you would need to replace the main seal while you have the tractor split in two. Also you should look at the clutch and throw out bearing.

The cracked bell housing might be repairable but it will always be very week. What other damage was done to the housing. The clutch rod or other parts may be worn or damaged.

The Massey parts will not be cheap.

Looking at Tractor House the replacement tractor might prove to be cost effect fix to the problem.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Welding cast aluminum is always iffy at best, you would be best to just replace it.

You would need to double check the part, but I think this is what you would be looking for.

https://www.wengers.com/parts/clutch-483/clutch-housing-3436486m2.html

 

[Rosher18]

How old is it? Maybe you can find a used bellhousing?



Best of luck to you. Please let us know the outcome.

Thanks for the response. According to the serial number and TractorData.com, it's an '83.

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[Rosher18]

Thanks for your support everyone, I'll throw some more details around now that I'm home and done with the immediate work.

It's an '83 1010-4, making it the gear drive model. It does look like a recent crack, judging from how clean the edges are. After I got it running I moved the loader up and down, used it to gingerly lift the front wheels off the ground, and didn't seem to flex the crack too much. I can't believe the installation didn't include arms that connected further back toward the rear axle.

I know as recently as 1993-4 it didn't have the loader on it, thanks to some home videos that featured the tractor.

Wolfman, do you know if the hydro version that you sent would fit up to the gear drive model? I can see clutch bolts if I look inside at the right angle...

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[torch]

Cast aluminium can be welded quite successfully. However, it will have to be stripped completely to the bare casting and thoroughly cleaned, with the joint ground out to remove oxides. Then it needs to be heated up slowly in an annealing oven with an inert gas (eg: argon) to 200° overnight before welding and cooled down slowly in the same oven or at least blanketed for several more hours. It's not something your average welder is equipped to do. Look for a marine or aerospace welder in your area.

 

[D2Cat]

I just noticed this evening in Concord, Ark. someone is selling a Massey1010 with 523 hours for $3000. I saw it on FB marketplace.

Might be able to put it back together and sell part to get your money back.

 

[lugbolt]

I just noticed this evening in Concord, Ark. someone is selling a Massey1010 with 523 hours for $3000. I saw it on FB marketplace.

Might be able to put it back together and sell part to get your money back.

Miller Equipment Sales. I passed by it Sunday and never gave it a thought. They do a lot with different tractors and it may be worth a call, maybe they have some parts. Reminds me I need to call & see if they have anything for my 1145 MF.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Extruded aluminum and cast aluminum are 2 different animals to weld. I weld extruded all the time (Tig) but would never attempt to weld cast simply because of the impurities in the metal, porosity and difficulty level.

 

[lugbolt]

cast can be tig'd but it won't be pretty. I typically have to run higher % EP for cleaning, just strike an arc on low amp and work around the area to be welded without puddling or adding filler, the higher EP tends to clean the area somewhat. For welding, it's more brazing it than anything. Just did an outboard foot a couple hours ago. It wasn't pretty but it satisfied the owner as a $50 welding job is about $1700 cheaper than a new foot assembly. The problem with cast is that not all cast is the same. Some of it is just junk and attempting to weld it results in it just balling up. There is where you have to warn the person who's requesting it to be welded-it might or might not work. After a while, you kinda learn what jobs to take not to take on.

 

[Newlyme]

....The problem with cast is that not all cast is the same. Some of it is just junk and attempting to weld it results in it just balling up. There is where you have to warn the person who's requesting it to be welded-it might or might not work. After a while, you kinda learn what jobs to take not to take on.

This is exactly what I was taught at the Lincoln Electric Welding School.
Our instructor told us that you may have to remind the customer that it was already broken when it came through the door.

 

[lugbolt]

Reminds me I need to go out to the shop and tig up a crack in the JD push mower deck. Hit a turtle with it last year while mowing the ditch and wouldn't you know it, he cracked the deck shell (cast aluminum). Cracked his shell too, unfortunately.

 

[Rosher18]

Reviving a very old thread.

They continued to carefully use it for a few more months until it blew up the 4 wheel drive in the front end. It went to a shop where $6k of repairs were done, which included replacing the bell housing, re-sealing the water pump to the engine after extracting a broken bolt from the block, and cleaning up the metal bits from the front axle. They were unable to locate a replacement for the broken gear, so now it's a 2 wheel drive which should work okay enough for them until winter, when it will likely become stuck unless my mother in law remembers to use the differential lock.

Thanks for all the replies everyone. We'll be watching that new bell housing and I'll try to help them remember to be gentle with it.