My Kubota M5040 shuttle shift won't move with the engine running. When I try to put it in forward or reverse I can feel the tractor move a little but shifter won't move. Anyone have suggestions to cure this problem? Thakns.
M5040 shuttle shift won't engage
- Thread starter country gal
- Start date
Which model of M5040 as there are a number of them?
Is your shuttle hydraulic or synchro?
Does your clutch pedal operate normally?
Dave
Thanks Dave for the questions. The model is an M5040F 2 wheel drive/Rops. The shuttle is hydraulic. Yes the clutch pedal operates normally.
Clutch pedal linkage on hyd shuttle is attached to hyd valve. My suggestion would be to locate test port & check for correct pressure on the hyd shuttle
whitetiger
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Staff member
Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
If the Shuttle Shift lever will not move, the cable has failed. I am thinking there is also a PSB about cable routing to soften the curve.
I will check the PSBs and let you know. Right now, I gotta Bounce,,,,
I am providing three pages from the WSM regarding the hydraulic shuttle.
It is important that you understand that the clutch pedal and the shuttle lever are both controlling the same internal transmission mechanism.
There is no typical dry clutch on these tractors. There are two clutch packs with multiple plates. One pack for forward and one for reverse.
Initially focus on the mechanical aspect of the shuttle lever by reading page 1 and two. A cable problem or an adjustment problem is most likely culprit rather than internal hydraulic pressures.
Whitetiger may find there is a design issue with the cable running between the shuttle lever and the valve.
Dave
I tend to agree with you about it being a cable problem. This tractor has 860 hrs on it and this is the 2nd time I've had a problem with the shuttle shift. Thanks for the pages.
Sheila
I purposely only run hydraulic shuttle tractors because when I'm running my round baler, I leave the pto rpm set at 540 constantly so when I stop the baler for it to wrap a bale and then start the sequence again, a dry clutch tractor would be eating clutches. With the hydraulic shuttle, the modulating valve engages the wet pack in a progressive manner, eliminating any jerky start and there is no wear on a dry clutch plate.
You can check the pack pressure, there is an access port on the side of the valve and the pack pressure is externally adjustable. You'll need the correct fitting to access the check port and a liquid filled pressure gauge that reads to 3,000 psi. I got my fitting and gauge from Motion Industries but, you can also get it from your dealer or a Parker Hannifin outlet.
The recommended pack pressure is called out in the WSM.
Be apprised however that increasing the pack pressure above the recommenced pressure will cause the pack to lock up in a more aggressive manner.
You can check the pack pressure, there is an access port on the side of the valve and the pack pressure is externally adjustable. You'll need the correct fitting to access the check port and a liquid filled pressure gauge that reads to 3,000 psi. I got my fitting and gauge from Motion Industries but, you can also get it from your dealer or a Parker Hannifin outlet.
The recommended pack pressure is called out in the WSM.
Be apprised however that increasing the pack pressure above the recommenced pressure will cause the pack to lock up in a more aggressive manner.
Great information. Thank you for the help. I'm ready to go attack this project and hopefully get it fixed. Like everyone else "I need my tractor to work".
Sidecarflip
What you state about hyd shuttle has limited to no wear on damper clutch when starting forward/rearward motion is true but the spring loaded center of the damper clutch must absorb the shock of beginning motion. My neighbor's tractor with very similar damper clutch had the s[rings fail in the clutch center requiring a tractor split to R&R damper clutch
What you state about hyd shuttle has limited to no wear on damper clutch when starting forward/rearward motion is true but the spring loaded center of the damper clutch must absorb the shock of beginning motion. My neighbor's tractor with very similar damper clutch had the s[rings fail in the clutch center requiring a tractor split to R&R damper clutch
whitetiger
Moderator
Staff member
Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
Here is the PSB referring to the shuttle shifter cable. I have replaced a few of them, most exhibited the same scenario as yours. The cable fails and you can not get enough stroke out of the lever to fully shift the shuttle valve resulting in loss of one direction or both.
Thanks for the info on the new routing for the shuttle cable. I checked the part number on the new cable I purchased last Friday and the one they sold me is off by 1 number. I will call them tomorrow morning and see if they have the correct part. Has there been any additional updates on the length of the cable or routing since 2009? I had a tractor repairman come over today and he seems to think it's the clutch. I am not totally convinced he is right. Is there any way I can rule out one or the other so I make sure I do the right repair the first time? Thanks for everyone's help.
Look at the attached photos. There is no clutch in the traditional dry clutch style on the hydraulic shuttle. There is one on the synchro shuttle
Bolted to the flywheel is a damper disk which, in performance terms, is the same as the center guts out of a traditional cutch but it does not fail from wear as a traditional clutch.
This damper disk incorporates springs to dampen out power pulses from the engine to avoid this wear on the transmission.
All traveling clutch action whether from the synchro lever or the clutch pedal all takes place in the two shuttle clutch packs.
Perhaps a more knowledgeable on Kubota's repairman is needed.
Dave
That is true. Actually the springs absorb the jerk from going shuttle forward to shuttle reverse and 'dampen' the abrupt direction change. Not that it's happened to me but I would imagine in loader work, going from F F to R at any sort of ground speed would be very hard on the springs in the damper plate, but then it would also be hard on a conventional clutch damper springs as well.
The damper plate isn't a 'clutch' anyway. Just a multiple spring dampened plate where the engine side splines (crankshaft output) mate to one part of the plate and the transmission side mate to the other with the springs allowing the 2 sections to move independently. It's a neat design and with the hydraulic actuated travelling packs, makes for a nice power transmission system with no parasitic loss, like a hydrostat has.
If you do directional changes at higher ground speeds, you can destroy the damper plate spring pack and it will require a spit to replace but normal operation under normal circumstances shouldn't cause the damper to fail. Like anything else, abuse it and it will eventually puke.
Thanks Dave for the photos and suggestion for a more knowledgeable tractor repair person. Do you know of any tractor repair service besides dealers in the north Houston, Conroe or Cleveland, Tx area?
Sorry but I am a long way a way in Canada.
Paying a dealer to at least do a diagnosis may save you money in the long run.
Dave
Often people do not understand the engineering behind certain components and rely on opinions of those without a true understand of the design.
For those owners truly wanting to learn design details incorporated into their machinery I offer the following pages.
Dave
For those owners truly wanting to learn design details incorporated into their machinery I offer the following pages.
Dave