Lift Cylinder Honing Questions

haanzel

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I am replacing the 3PH lift cylinder o-ring on both of my tractors. Searching on here, some suggest to hone the cylinder. I have some questions on this.

1- Is honing required or suggested? What if it is not done?
2a- If it needs to be done, how do you do this? Perhaps my google fu is off, but I can't find a good video on it.
2b- What are some suggested honing tools? The HF one? Or a ball honer?

Thanks.
 

TheOldHokie

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I am replacing the 3PH lift cylinder o-ring on both of my tractors. Searching on here, some suggest to hone the cylinder. I have some questions on this.

1- Is honing required or suggested? What if it is not done?
2a- If it needs to be done, how do you do this? Perhaps my google fu is off, but I can't find a good video on it.
2b- What are some suggested honing tools? The HF one? Or a ball honer?

Thanks.
Unless its scored dont.

Dan
 
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RCW

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I would heed both Dan and Kenny’s advice. Sounds like don’t do it unless necessary.
 
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ferguson

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Den 's correct. I worked in a machine shop through high school they repaired los of cylinders only remember a hand full of times we honed the bore & like said only when it was scored or dented.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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If you post a picture of the inside of the cylinder we can usually tell you if it needs work.
 

haanzel

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Here is the one from my L2600. Looks good, the only questionable area is the ridge at the bottom near the back of the cylinder. It does not go around full circle, mainly at the bottom and sides.
 

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haanzel

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This one is more suspect on my 5100. Piston shows wear as does the cylinder. The 3PH works fine except it does whine when in use and I have to touch the lever to make it stop. Eventually the 3PH will lower itself, which is the reason for the o-ring exchange.
 

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dvcochran

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Not to get overly complicated, but the right way to check a cylinder is with rigid mounted depth gauges. This tells you it the cylinder is round. Then, it the scratches are not too deep the cylinder can be honed. The heavy scratches on the piston tells me the cylinder(s) has been abused and improperly loaded frequently. This is likely the cause of the cylinder wall scratches. The rust and pitting in the other photo could be from poor maintenance and water in the oil.
Rebuilding a cylinder that is in good shape after teardown that blew out the rod gland is doable work for a layperson. What I see in the photos need to go to a hydraulic shop.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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B1500 or B5100 you have said both????
I would like to know to see if it has a removeable liner because you should either change the liner or hone it and get a new piston.
 

TheOldHokie

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Not to get overly complicated, but the right way to check a cylinder is with rigid mounted depth gauges. This tells you it the cylinder is round. Then, it the scratches are not too deep the cylinder can be honed. The heavy scratches on the piston tells me the cylinder(s) has been abused and improperly loaded frequently. This is likely the cause of the cylinder wall scratches. The rust and pitting in the other photo could be from poor maintenance and water in the oil.
Rebuilding a cylinder that is in good shape after teardown that blew out the rod gland is doable work for a layperson. What I see in the photos need to go to a hydraulic shop.
What I see in the photo is a cylinder that is integral to the top cover casting on the 3pt. Its scratched and out of round. No easy or cost effective way to correct that. Honing will remove the scratches and possibly make it closer to round but it will be even more oversize than it already is. Replace the piston and oring and hope for the best.

Dan
 
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TheOldHokie

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B1500 or B5100 you have said both????
I would like to know to see if it has a removeable liner because you should either change the liner or hone it and get a new piston.
If it has a replaceable liner things get a lot easier and the hone stays in the tool chest.

Dan
 
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haanzel

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Wolf, it's a B5100. Early on when I got it I thought it was a 1500 and updated my sig as such, but now I cannot access the signature to change it. Does the B5100 have replaceable liners? EDIT- I upgraded my account and updated my sig.

I could also try to find a used top cover that is is good condition. Otherwise I was thinking of just replacing the o-ring in the 5100 and hope for the best. It works fine outside of the drop/squeal I mentioned.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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You forgot to change your equipment.. I took care of it.
The B5100 does not have a replaceable liner.
I would take a hone to it just to soften up the scratches and scotch bright the piston then new seals.
The squeal is a valve issue not a piston issue.
But fixing the squeal could be getting pretty deep into the valve.
 
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