Leaking front axle seal on L4060

[Jim Goodman]

Hi all. I have an L4060 with a slowly leaking front axle seal. I do not use my tractor much.....only about 20 hours per year. It has 190 hours on it. I use it mainly for maintaining my driveway and carrying cut-up deadfall out of the woods. It is garage-kept. Anyway, I have a slow axle seal leak at the driver-side wheel. 2 years ago, I was moving some stacks of lumber around and I was maxing out the FEL, and that's when the leak started. It's not getting worse and I check the fluid level each time I use it.

I'm a pretty lousy mechanic. I have a tendency to screw problems up worse than they were before my attempts to fix them if they are anything beyond basic maintenance. I don't have a trailer to haul my tractor and when it goes to the dealer, it's a $400 round-trip roll-back charge plus the dealer's repair bill. I've read quite a few comments that the front axle seals are not difficult to replace, but I haven't seen any YouTube videos of an L4060 front axle seal replacement. I have a WSM and it does not specifically address replacing the front axle seal. It deals with more substantial front axle repairs, but there is a photo in the WSM showing the removal of the bevel gear case and front gear case as a unit that looks easy enough for me to handle. Is that what needs to be done to replace the leaking seal or are there other seals in that assembly that could be causing the leak? (please see attached photos with notes and questions). Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I grabbed this picture from the online parts lookup at Kubota.
Maybe seal #50 is bad ? My BX23S had a similar weepy-leak. Bought the seal AND 2 of the O-rings,thinking I'd destroy one that goes between the axle cases. All are still on the shelf !. After tearing it all apart the itty-bitty teeny-weeny piece of grit must have been removed during the cleaning... You need strong 'snap-ring' pliers to get the snap rings out and back in !!! 'Bent' ones work best.....
It's not a 'tough' job,just have to have patience, proper tools and GOOD lighting. Also, take a few 'before' and 'during' pictures !!!

 

[Jim Goodman]

I grabbed this picture from the online parts lookup at Kubota.
Maybe seal #50 is bad ? My BX23S had a similar weepy-leak. Bought the seal AND 2 of the O-rings,thinking I'd destroy one that goes between the axle cases. All are still on the shelf !. After tearing it all apart the itty-bitty teeny-weeny piece of grit must have been removed during the cleaning... You need strong 'snap-ring' pliers to get the snap rings out and back in !!! 'Bent' ones work best.....
It's not a 'tough' job,just have to have patience, proper tools and GOOD lighting. Also, take a few 'before' and 'during' pictures !!!

Thank you! I found that diagram for my machine in the WSM.

 

[number two]

Could you remove the assembly and take it to the dealer for a "bench" job?
You do the simple R&R and save the transportation cost.
Good Luck!

 

[Nicksacco]

Hi Jim. Check out this thread:

Kubota L35 Front End Service - Axle and Wheels

Hi All, For anyone seeking to replace leaky seals or perform an oil change on the front end, I hope these pictures provide some inspiration. This tractor was a rust bucket and severely abused. I wanted to try my hand at restoration on something other than a motorcycle and well, it's been a work...

www.orangetractortalks.com

It may help you visualize things.
If you don't want to repair or don't have the tools and/time, @number two has a good suggestion.
The axle weighs a ton as do the wheel hubs and such. But you may not need to replace anything in the axle and just deal with the wheel hubs.
I removed both wheel hubs first then the axle during my restoration just to lighten the weight of the axle.
I also have a lift to move it around.
I live in Bahama NC so I'm close to you if you want to talk.

There is also a seal (plug) on the bottom of the wheel hubs as well that might need attention.
Number 110 in the attachment @GreensvilleJay posted.

I'm kind of suggesting that perhaps all the seals on both sides might require replacement. It isn't a hard job, but parts are heavy and you need strong circlip pliers. I've invested in Knipex for this kind of thing.

If you want to think about all this and still using your machine, definitely top off the oil in the axle. I use 80-90 weight oil.

 

[Donystoy]

Over the last few years I had to replace the seals in both the front hubs on my B7200 that is similar in design. I am sure one was damaged from excessive weight on the front end when one day I was bush hogging and saw a rock in the field that my tenant had unearthed with his plough. The closer I got to it the larger it got. I normally have the BH on the tractor when heavy lifting but not this time. The inner race of the lower bearing was completely split in two. It is not a bad job to do but takes a bit of time cleaning off old gaskets etc. Maybe you know someone who is a bit more comfortable who can help you open it up. Of course the other option as previously mentioned is to remove the one hub from the axle and take it to the dealer for repair.
If you do not have any heavy attachment for the rear of the tractor when using the loader, you should have a ballast box at a minimum.

 

[Jim Goodman]

Could you remove the assembly and take it to the dealer for a "bench" job?
You do the simple R&R and save the transportation cost.
Good Luck!

Great idea, thank you!

 

[Jim Goodman]

Hi Jim. Check out this thread:

Kubota L35 Front End Service - Axle and Wheels

Hi All, For anyone seeking to replace leaky seals or perform an oil change on the front end, I hope these pictures provide some inspiration. This tractor was a rust bucket and severely abused. I wanted to try my hand at restoration on something other than a motorcycle and well, it's been a work...

www.orangetractortalks.com

It may help you visualize things.
If you don't want to repair or don't have the tools and/time, @number two has a good suggestion.
The axle weighs a ton as do the wheel hubs and such. But you may not need to replace anything in the axle and just deal with the wheel hubs.
I removed both wheel hubs first then the axle during my restoration just to lighten the weight of the axle.
I also have a lift to move it around.
I live in Bahama NC so I'm close to you if you want to talk.

There is also a seal (plug) on the bottom of the wheel hubs as well that might need attention.
Number 110 in the attachment @GreensvilleJay posted.

I'm kind of suggesting that perhaps all the seals on both sides might require replacement. It isn't a hard job, but parts are heavy and you need strong circlip pliers. I've invested in Knipex for this kind of thing.

If you want to think about all this and still using your machine, definitely top off the oil in the axle. I use 80-90 weight oil.


View attachment 94061

Nicksacco, thanks very much for this information. I'm sure I'd screw this up. I think number two's suggestion to pull the assembly and take that to the dealer is the ticket. I'm currently have Super UDT2 in the front axle, and intend to switch to 80w-90w oil, but I'll get this issue fixed first. I'll keep topping up with UDT2 until then.

I have a rolling floor jack, so I'm presuming I can use that to roll the disconnected hub assembly away from the axle. I'm a retired carpenter with woodworking tools and can make a cradle for the hub assembly so it doesn't roll off the jack. Another dumb question....when pulling the hub assembly, does the shaft in the photo remain in the axle housing or does it come out with the hub assembly? I'm asking because I want to make sure I'm not risking bending that axle shaft.

I also would like to know if there are any special measures I need to take to align the splines on the end of the shaft with whatever those spines are interfacing with inside the hub?

If I need to rent a lift, I'll do that, but hoping I can do it with a rolling floor jack. I've attached another version of the photo from the WSM asking about that shaft. I've also attached a diagram of the front hub, FYI.

I used to have an L48 TLB but it was starting to cost a lot of money in repairs that I was not capable of performing and I was done with the heavy work on my property and wanted to be able to quickiy install 3PH imlements, so I sold it and got the L4060 which is fine for my needs now. I didn't have a way to store the L48 indoors, and being stored outside took its toll. I can get the L4060 into a garage. But, there is a big difference in the FEL capabilities between the L48 and L4060 as I found out when I moved that lumber around and that hub started leaking. I do have an old Gannon rollover box blade on the back of the L4060 for ballast.

Any of my above questions that you can answer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your offer to talk. I may take you up on that in the future if I run into problems.

 

[Jim Goodman]

Over the last few years I had to replace the seals in both the front hubs on my B7200 that is similar in design. I am sure one was damaged from excessive weight on the front end when one day I was bush hogging and saw a rock in the field that my tenant had unearthed with his plough. The closer I got to it the larger it got. I normally have the BH on the tractor when heavy lifting but not this time. The inner race of the lower bearing was completely split in two. It is not a bad job to do but takes a bit of time cleaning off old gaskets etc. Maybe you know someone who is a bit more comfortable who can help you open it up. Of course the other option as previously mentioned is to remove the one hub from the axle and take it to the dealer for repair.
If you do not have any heavy attachment for the rear of the tractor when using the loader, you should have a ballast box at a minimum.

Thanks. I do have beet juice in the tires and an old 6' Gannon rollover box blade on the rear, that weighs close to 1000 lbs for ballast.

 

[Nicksacco]

Nicksacco, thanks very much for this information. I'm sure I'd screw this up. I think number two's suggestion to pull the assembly and take that to the dealer is the ticket. I'm currently have Super UDT2 in the front axle, and intend to switch to 80w-90w oil, but I'll get this issue fixed first. I'll keep topping up with UDT2 until then. Yep - good idea. Definitely need to keep the gears lubricated.

I have a rolling floor jack, so I'm presuming I can use that to roll the disconnected hub assembly away from the axle. I'm a retired carpenter with woodworking tools and can make a cradle for the hub assembly so it doesn't roll off the jack. Another dumb question....when pulling the hub assembly, does the shaft in the photo remain in the axle housing or does it come out with the hub assembly? I'm asking because I want to make sure I'm not risking bending that axle shaft. Anything you can do to make moving these heavy things around will save your back! As you can see the shaft is splined so it will just slip out of the hub assy. Just be careful and go slow. The shafts are really stout.

I also would like to know if there are any special measures I need to take to align the splines on the end of the shaft with whatever those spines are interfacing with inside the hub? I think you're asking if there's some sort of timing marks when reassembling - no.

If I need to rent a lift, I'll do that, but hoping I can do it with a rolling floor jack. I've attached another version of the photo from the WSM asking about that shaft. I've also attached a diagram of the front hub, FYI. YES See Diagram

I used to have an L48 TLB but it was starting to cost a lot of money in repairs that I was not capable of performing and I was done with the heavy work on my property and wanted to be able to quickiy install 3PH imlements, so I sold it and got the L4060 which is fine for my needs now. I didn't have a way to store the L48 indoors, and being stored outside took its toll. I can get the L4060 into a garage. But, there is a big difference in the FEL capabilities between the L48 and L4060 as I found out when I moved that lumber around and that hub started leaking. I do have an old Gannon rollover box blade on the back of the L4060 for ballast.

Any of my above questions that you can answer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your offer to talk. I may take you up on that in the future if I run into problems.

See my answers above in RED
I'm not that far from you so let me know if you need help.
The front hubs come apart pretty easy but the weight is significant - so moving them around can be dangerous if they roll off a bench or something.

I'm curious what the dealer will tell you the cost will be. And exactly what they will look like when returned. (Will they clean them up?)
Are you planning on working with the Louisburg Tractor? I know the parts guys there, but never had work done there as I do my own.

 

[Jim Goodman]

See my answers above in RED
I'm not that far from you so let me know if you need help.
The front hubs come apart pretty easy but the weight is significant - so moving them around can be dangerous if they roll off a bench or something.

I'm curious what the dealer will tell you the cost will be. And exactly what they will look like when returned. (Will they clean them up?)
Are you planning on working with the Louisburg Tractor? I know the parts guys there, but never had work done there as I do my own.


View attachment 94121

See my answers above in RED
I'm not that far from you so let me know if you need help.
The front hubs come apart pretty easy but the weight is significant - so moving them around can be dangerous if they roll off a bench or something.

I'm curious what the dealer will tell you the cost will be. And exactly what they will look like when returned. (Will they clean them up?)
Are you planning on working with the Louisburg Tractor? I know the parts guys there, but never had work done there as I do my own.


View attachment 94121

Thanks for your answers and thanks for your offer to help if I need it. I use The Tractor Center which used to be called Senter Tractor in Garner on 401. I had the front axle seals replaced on my L48 by them and it was, I thought, very reasonable. I think it was about $300 per side a couple of years ago.

 

[Heavyopp]

Resurrecting an old thread. Makes more sense than starting a new thread.

Question - Is the "Plug Seal" at the bottom of the front gear case made to hold oil in?


I have a leak in a L5740. Really looks like it's leaking from the plug seal. Doesn't seem to be coming from higher up. I have not pulled the tire, been running a wood chipper on the 3pt hitch so very little driving, wasn't worried about it. Leaks when stationary and warm but when it leaks it drips pretty good.

Is the plug seal a friction fit? is it realistic to think I could remove it with chisel or some sort of pry tool, clean it, and reinstall it with some permatex to make a positive seal?

Thanks for the help.

Jer

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes the plug is an oil seal.
And yes you can pull it clean it up the seal and case and reinstall.
Most commonly the seals leak from pressure in the case so check the vent.