L3830 HST: No start: Click-click-click-flatlined

[Nigel]

Hi all,

I have a (500 hours) L3830 HST that isn't starting.
* Turn the key,
* Coil heater clicks off as it should
* Turn key to start and...
* You hear a few clicks and then the entire panel goes dark.

Remove and re-insert key and the panel is still dead.
Wait for a 30 minutish random amount of time and it the panel will light up again.

Plenty of juice in the battery and I am getting full voltage to the starter.
All of my running lights, indicators, high beams work just fine.

Seems like something is charging up and there is no go until it discharges.

Could it be a bad relay or is it a safety interlock that is sticky??

I don't really get why the panel would black out.

Thanks!

 

[Tooljunkie]

Battery. Or. Related. Cables. Period. Nuf said.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'll second what Tooljunkie said.

Did you have the battery load tested?
Even a bad battery can show 12V until loaded then have a N/C internally.

Also a bad ground connection can do everything your saying it's doing.

 

[Nigel]

Thanks! -- Battery is good. I'm checking the grounds/cables...

 

[lugbolt]

Check the cable that runs from the starter to the battery. Common for them to become broken, near the battery.

 

[Nigel]

You guys were correct.

It was the GROUND cable from the battery. It had failed. Replaced it and it started right up.

Check the simple stuff first. You'd think I'd remember that by now.

Thanks!

 

[CaveCreekRay]

Nigel,

All these guys have made great suggestions worthy of checking...

The L-3800 has a history of exactly what you describe (clicking sound on start attempt with no starter engagement).

The culprit is the HST pedal safety switches.

The HST pedal has two "idiot" switches (lawyer...idiot, same difference) that prevent the starter from engaging with the pedal in either FWD or REV even an RCH. (RCH is a technical term for incredibly small I'll have to 'splain to you via PM...)

At the factory, these switches are adjusted right up to the neutral point on the HST pedal. Over time, the pedal either gets stiff from dirt or the linkage to the switches wears and the regime they control gets tighter. Either way, the result is the same: Tractor no-workie. For some reason, not all of the dealers even know about this issue. The first time I took mine in for it they checked out my new battery that didn't solve the problem and they lubed the pedal. In a week, the problem was back. The next technician knew of the issue and widened up the neutral position for a couple of handy results: 1. The tractor starts now with 100% reliability. 2. I can actually move the tractor from the ground FWD and REV ever so slowly when slinging a load on the FEL or hitching up an implement. VERY handy and something I use all the time.

The linkage to the switch (or switches... I have not seen them) comes vertically off the pedal and the switches live somewhere just under your instrument cluster, just inboard of your right foot. I am told, they are just under the edge of the cover above the pedal.

You can tell very simply if this malady is the one you face: Simply move the HST pedal back and forth, trying to find the real "center," then try and start it. If that doesn't work, turn the key and rock the pedal through neutral and if the starter engages for a second, that is your issue.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

 

[MadMax31]

Nigel,

All these guys have made great suggestions worthy of checking...

The L-3800 has a history of exactly what you describe (clicking sound on start attempt with no starter engagement).

The culprit is the HST pedal safety switches.

The HST pedal has two "idiot" switches (lawyer...idiot, same difference) that prevent the starter from engaging with the pedal in either FWD or REV even an RCH. (RCH is a technical term for incredibly small I'll have to 'splain to you via PM...)

At the factory, these switches are adjusted right up to the neutral point on the HST pedal. Over time, the pedal either gets stiff from dirt or the linkage to the switches wears and the regime they control gets tighter. Either way, the result is the same: Tractor no-workie. For some reason, not all of the dealers even know about this issue. The first time I took mine in for it they checked out my new battery that didn't solve the problem and they lubed the pedal. In a week, the problem was back. The next technician knew of the issue and widened up the neutral position for a couple of handy results: 1. The tractor starts now with 100% reliability. 2. I can actually move the tractor from the ground FWD and REV ever so slowly when slinging a load on the FEL or hitching up an implement. VERY handy and something I use all the time.

The linkage to the switch (or switches... I have not seen them) comes vertically off the pedal and the switches live somewhere just under your instrument cluster, just inboard of your right foot. I am told, they are just under the edge of the cover above the pedal.

You can tell very simply if this malady is the one you face: Simply move the HST pedal back and forth, trying to find the real "center," then try and start it. If that doesn't work, turn the key and rock the pedal through neutral and if the starter engages for a second, that is your issue.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

I think you typed slower than him. He got it.

 

[ranger4327]

I am having a similar problem, altho my panel does not go blank..... For about a year, I occasionally get clicking and no crank. Today, after tractor started fine, I turned tractor off, then turned key and NOTHING. Ignition lights came on but no clicking. After a few tries, the clicking returned but no crank. Eventually tractor started after a few attempts.

I might also add that randomly, the tractor will stall after I get off the tractor. Sometimes it remains running, other times it will stall when I get off it. Thinking this might be linked to starting issue as well. Perhaps it is the 'pedal switch' ????

thanks

 

[allencf]

Had the same same with my 3800, removed the guard from the HST safety switch and adjusted the switch... cranks now each time .. motor stall when getting off the tractor is probably coming from the same switch... after adjusting you should be ok for both issues.

 

[ranger4327]

Had the same same with my 3800, removed the guard from the HST safety switch and adjusted the switch... cranks now each time .. motor stall when getting off the tractor is probably coming from the same switch... after adjusting you should be ok for both issues.

it will cause the CLICKING tho? I figured it would be a solenoid/starter issue....