Got busy this afternoon; gathered the filters and Oil and started changing out for the 50 hour service. Oil change and filter replacement went smoothly, then came the Hydraulic Filter change. Long story short, I couldn't budge the filter at all. Neighbor came over and brought his filter tools (he services large JD's and Olivers and he couldn't get it to move either. So, what am I to do? How do others take care of the problem; I even used a 16" pipe "cheater bar" without any success. I've NEVER had this problem on any of my other tractors, trucks or cars. What now?
L3301 50 Hour Service
- Thread starter sparky45
- Start date
cliffboyer
Active member
Equipment
L3301 w/LA525 loader, G5200 mower w/RC48 deck, Kawasaki 610 Mule, DR mower
Kubota installs filters then paints everything. My guess is paint is bonding it. Try cutting around it with razor knife to break that bond.
Take to dealer that sold it to you. Tell him you cant get the filter off and you think there is something wrong. That way if he messes it up..... He can warranty it. It should not be that hard. If a dang cheater pipe won't get it, it was installed and tightened too much
I have used several methods on first change filters:
Chain wrench
Cold chisel and hammer on base
Air chisel on base
The impact tools do well if you can access the filter, a longer bit may be necessary.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Chain wrench
Cold chisel and hammer on base
Air chisel on base
The impact tools do well if you can access the filter, a longer bit may be necessary.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Are you talking about the hydraulic filter (RH side) or the HST filter (LH side)??
I've NEVER had a hydraulic filter "that" tight. Not ever and I've serviced hundreds of those tractors.
HST filters are always tight but I've only had maybe 2 or 3 that required an air chisel to get them loose-and those were Grand L's and MX's. L01's never. Pair of channel locks will almost always get 'em loose.
I've NEVER had a hydraulic filter "that" tight. Not ever and I've serviced hundreds of those tractors.
HST filters are always tight but I've only had maybe 2 or 3 that required an air chisel to get them loose-and those were Grand L's and MX's. L01's never. Pair of channel locks will almost always get 'em loose.
Makes sense Cliff is right. I noticed that there isn't much collapse on the gasket and if over tightened it's going to go metal to metal. Add paint sealing the two together it would be a bear. Try softening the paint bond with break clean or something for a while and try it again, should help.
big channel lock pliers will get it off. You are talking about the RH big hydraulic oil filter with the magnet
That's what I had to do. A razor knife followed by a little WD-40 goes a long way toward getting it loose!
Finally; FINALLY got the blankety blank thing off. Got a large strap wrench from my neighbor and with ALL my weight (200) and jerking force the filter moved a smidge and I knew I had it. Lost about ½ quart of Hdraulic fluid which I will replace when I get to the dealer.
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions; never going through that again.
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions; never going through that again.
cliffboyer
Active member
Equipment
L3301 w/LA525 loader, G5200 mower w/RC48 deck, Kawasaki 610 Mule, DR mower
Good deal!
I maintain that every manufacturer that has a product requiring filters, employs a gorilla to install them!
I maintain that every manufacturer that has a product requiring filters, employs a gorilla to install them!
MOst spin on filters instruct the installer to smear a little oil or grease, etc. on the rubber gasket during installation.
They issue this instruction so as to lubricate the gasket so during installation it wont grab and twist or deform. (Most people think it is for the purpose of improving the sealing against leaks but that is INcorrect.)
The oil/grease/etc will coke and harden so as to make some filters virtually IMPOSSIBLE to remove after awhile. It can be so badly cooked as to virtually WELD the gasket and filter in-place and drive you nuts trying to remove it.
A MUCH BETTER method (and one we use in aviation) is to use silicone grease (such as Dow-Corning DC4) instead. This product is often used also to lubricate electric connections and light-bulb/lamp bases to protect against corrosion.
It will lubricate the gasket making it easier to install (Do NOT over-tighten because it will be easier to twist). Follow the instructions of the filter/OEM... usually something like hand-tight then one-half turn ... or a specified torque such as 18 INCH-pounds. (Spin on filters do NOT need to be fitted very tight at all to perform properly.)
The silicone grease will make it a snap to remove the filter next time.
They issue this instruction so as to lubricate the gasket so during installation it wont grab and twist or deform. (Most people think it is for the purpose of improving the sealing against leaks but that is INcorrect.)
The oil/grease/etc will coke and harden so as to make some filters virtually IMPOSSIBLE to remove after awhile. It can be so badly cooked as to virtually WELD the gasket and filter in-place and drive you nuts trying to remove it.
A MUCH BETTER method (and one we use in aviation) is to use silicone grease (such as Dow-Corning DC4) instead. This product is often used also to lubricate electric connections and light-bulb/lamp bases to protect against corrosion.
It will lubricate the gasket making it easier to install (Do NOT over-tighten because it will be easier to twist). Follow the instructions of the filter/OEM... usually something like hand-tight then one-half turn ... or a specified torque such as 18 INCH-pounds. (Spin on filters do NOT need to be fitted very tight at all to perform properly.)
The silicone grease will make it a snap to remove the filter next time.
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