Yes, my clutch peddle is fully depressed. Now that you mention it, last month I noticed I had to let up and depress the clutch peddle again to engage the starter. Could the Starter Relay be the issue?Are you sure you have the clutch fully depressed? If not, you get what you describe.
Probably not the starter relay, but the clutch switch. They can get dirty. Pull the boot and spray contact cleaner in the plunger.Yes, my clutch peddle is fully depressed. Now that you mention it, last month I noticed I had to let up and depress the clutch peddle again to engage the starter. Could the Starter Relay be the issue?
Thanks, sounds good. just where is the clutch switch located?Probably not the starter relay, but the clutch switch. They can get dirty. Pull the boot and spray contact cleaner in the plunger.
Super. Will tackle first thing this Saturday.
Could not wait till Saturday. Yesterday (Thursday) I removed instrument cowling to access #60. Disconnected #60 from circuit and using ohm meter, confirmed it was normally open and contacts closed when clutch was depressed. So, #60 is not my issue. Not sure how to troubleshoot #20 (Starter Relay), I Isolated #90 (Seat Switch). With my ohm meter I confirmed the switch was normally CLOSED and contacts opened when pressure was applied. Checked it twice to make sure! Seat switch is normally closed and contacts open when pressure is applied. Any recommendations where to go next and or how to trouble shoot #20 Starter relay.Super. Will tackle first thing this Saturday.
I have no error coeds displayed on the dash instrument cluster. have been looking on the internet for a starting circuit schematic, to no avail. of note:Without doing a bunch of research, I would assume that your L3240HST dash is very similar to my L4740HST dash. When I had an issue with power but no crank this past fall I hunted down each line of the starting circuit and matched that up with the required conditions. Jumping each item as necessary, including the PTO, clutch, and seat switches. I did not have to mess with the treadle wiring, as it will beep as it crosses into and out of the acceptable range.
When I was at the clutch switch I noticed that after I put it back onto the bracket the clutch peddle would no longer actuate the switch, and I had to bend the switch bracket ever so slightly. This was determined by having to push the clutch switch in by hand to get continuity.
Through all of this the biggest help was the dash. The operator's manual outlines the errors that should be displayed. Are you not seeing any errors on the dash or perhaps I am incorrect that the 3240 dash is as complex as the 4740?
Thanks for getting back with me. My unit is an L3240 HST with ROPS, purchased new in March 2011. A week prior to not turning over, I had to depress the clutch a couple times (sweet Spot), to get it to turn over? Dash cowling is off. Dash lights up as normal, glow plug LED lights up then goes off as normal. Dealer installed new Kubota battery last May. Will perform 1 through 6 above and advise.Do you know if you have the L3240-1 or L3240-3? HST or Gear and cab or no cab? I have wiring diagrams for all...but if there are no errors being reported by the dash, then I don't know that I could suggest it was an electronic issue.
If you previously had issues with the clutch switch and you have an HST could you:
1. Shift to one of the neutral gears.
2. Remove the dash cowl.
3. Turn key to run. Does the dash light up like normal?
4. Turn key to start and hold it there.
5. Move the treadle back and forth. Do you get beeps as you approach and depart the neutral position?
6. Still holding the key to start, reach over and push the clutch switch all the way in.
If you do not have an HST, I am not going to be much help troublshooting!
Good luck!
OK, performed 1-6 above, Results:Thanks for getting back with me. My unit is an L3240 HST with ROPS, purchased new in March 2011. A week prior to not turning over, I had to depress the clutch a couple times (sweet Spot), to get it to turn over? Dash cowling is off. Dash lights up as normal, glow plug LED lights up then goes off as normal. Dealer installed new Kubota battery last May. Will perform 1 through 6 above and advise.
Thanks for your help.
Question; should the seat switch (#90) contacts be normally closed and open when setting in the seat?OK, performed 1-6 above, Results:
*1 Shifted to N.
*3 Key on, dash lights up and as normal & "N" displayed at left (indicating in Neutral, i assume)
*4 & 5 Key to start, treadle back & forth, yes, beeps as approaching neutral
*6 Key to start, clutch switch pushed all way in- Nothing happened?
What do you recommend next?
Took your advice, downloaded a WSM for $29. After reading and digesting the info, I confirmed the following were functioning properly:Here is the starting conditions table from the L3240-1 WSM.
View attachment 73442
The starting conditions table from the L3240-3 WSM do not include the seat switch, which indicates to me it is not a part of the starting circuit:
View attachment 73444
If you purchased it new in 2011 and it was new stock, it should be a "-3".
Thinking back to some of the other issues I'd have with starting, I think the start/stop solenoids would be my next investigation. Just as you've observed, I too had an issue several years ago where nothing happened when trying to crank. While having the tractor key in the "run" position and by fiddling with the wiring around the stop solenoid I was able to hear it pop/click. The wiring on mine was (and still is) quite crunchy from sitting in the Texas sun/heat.
If you still run into a wall, invest in a WSM. I was able to find my L-series-3 one online for free, but that was 3-4 years ago and a lot of work (wasted time). To find the -1 one I have I just paid the $25.
Good luck!