L3240 Broke

[Hook]

A stick got under my L3240 and broke the switch shown in the picture. The tractor now surges when I shift into forward (GST) and I had to back it to the house. The switch is located on the left side and there was a bolt-on cover which I removed. What does the switch do, how hard is it to fix, cost, etc.? Need help. Thanks in advance.

 

[hodge]

I love Kubota, and hate to nitpick, but why would they not protect something vulnerable like that?

 

[Stumpy]

Hummm. Looks like a pressure sensor or switch to me. I can't find any of the transmission sensors in the parts diagrams so I've got no idea other than that. Show those pics to your dealer and they should be able to get the part for you. Splice it into the existing wiring and you should be good to go.

 

[Hook]

Thanks. I hope that is all that is wrong. I could not see any other damage.

 

[birddogger]

Clearly a pressure switch and that is the GST valve body it is screwed into. Probably should fix it up.
You know that is broken, if it doesn't cure the problem totally; it isn't wasted money.

 

[pmhowe]

This page from the service manual doesn't provide a lot of information, but may help.

PMH

 

[Hook]

Thanks for the help. I ordered the part from a local dealer. It should get here Monday. I will keep you updated.

 

[Hook]

I was able to cobble the broken GST sensor back together and the tractor ran fine. I ordered the replacement from a local dealer and it hasn't arrived yet. I corresponded with Vic and he told me how to get the damaged sensor out. His advice was right on. Now for the next problem. You will notice in the pictures that the gray two prong electrical connector that sits atop the sensor is damaged also. The dealer could not find a replacement for that part and said it was part of the $1100 wiring harness. I asked him to contact Kubota to see if the electrical connector could be purchased. I have not heard back from him as yet. The old connector is damaged but not destroyed and I can make it work temporarily. I am skeptical about finding a connector through the dealer. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks for your help.

Hook

 

[Stubbyie]

Very few wiring harness connectors are entirely unique. Most all are somewhat standard within the industry.

Easiest might be to track down a salvage tractor parts dealer and see if they'll snip the harness and send you a foot or two that plugs into the sensor-switch. When you talk with the parts yard stipulate you want the cutoff harness part to be LONG. I've had lazy yard guys cut the wiring off plugs so short it / they couldn't be spliced.

Next, poke around automotive wiriing harness manufacturers websites. Try Mouser Electronics and Allied Electronics for hundreds of strange connectors. I'll bet they've got what you need.

Some connectors will cross to others used in the automotive industry. Spend time poking around auto salvage yards. There's still a few around. Keep a pair of cutters in your pocket and get permission to cut what you need if you find it.

In any case may need to carefully measure or have in custody your new replacement part to confirm fitment to connector.

You may be able to create a jumper harness by using crimp or solder connectors to fit your sensor-switch. Depending on price compared to $1100 harness you could try soldering wires directly to terminals. Unknown how heat might affect the unit but I've had success standing device in pan of water and using large hot iron for very quick soldering. In either case weather-proofing might require a large glob of RTV and / or heat shrink tube.

Please post back how you resolve this problem so we can all learn.

 

[Stubbyie]

Went back and looked at initial photos again after reading you were able to cobble the wiring together. After you replace the sensor if all that is broken is the harness connector you can try "splinting" the connector.

Here's what I've done, initially as a 'git'by' but it's held up for several years. Plug it all together. Coat liberally with hi-temp RTV (pure silicone, not 'copper' (actually iron oxide) type). Wrap a layer of fiberglass (note nonconductive) window screen material around it like a bandage. Apply more RTV. Let set. Apply more RTV and netting in layers. Finally I used a short piece of split-loom (spiral wrap okay too) and cable ties to make a nice tight neat little tube-shaped bundle. Looks kind of like an elongated spark plug boot.

 

[Russell King]

Here are some websites that have electrical connectors. Usually you can find some name embossed on the connectors that will help you find the type to look for. Good luck!
http://www.haywireinc.com/index.cfm
http://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/catalog/Wiring-Terminals-and-Connectors
http://www.theelectricaldepot.com/
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/waytek/catalog224/#/32

Plastic type superglue may be your friend to start repairs with and then reinforce it per previous post.

 

[Hook]

Thanks to all who responded and offered suggestions. I put the new sensor on this morning an it was an easy fix. The gray female connector that sits atop the sensor was only slightly damaged and clicked back into place and appears to be a snug fit. I am going to waterproof the connector with the RTV Silicone as suggested. The sensor was $85. I learned a long time ago that it is not a good idea to push tree limbs (especially water oak) with a rubber tire tractor. I did it any way. I think I got out cheap. Thanks again.

 

[Russell King]

Looking at your picture you may want to use some teflon tape on the sensor inder the lead connector before you start with RTV fix. That may allow the lead connector to be removed from the sensor if you ever needed to.