L3000DT

Chad2021!

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May 19, 2021
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Colorado
Thanks for the add, new guy looking for 1st tractor. Pretty sure of the color I’m looking for ;)

I’m looking at a used L3000DT with a loader attachment. I’m even not sure if the year yet. Has 800 hours on it.

I have 11 acres in the Rockies, Not bailing hay or anything crazy.

Before I actually go physically see this machine I have a couple questions.

1- anything in that model to specifically take note of to look at and inspect?
2- are additional attachments readily available?
3- is this a decent tractor to add a backhoe to someday and is a backhoe on this tractor worth the $$? Will it actually get some digging done? We are in the Rockies!

getting pretty excited about my 1st tractor!
 

PaulL

Well-known member

Equipment
B2601
Jul 17, 2017
2,204
1,176
113
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In broad terms that machine became (over time) the L2501. http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/004/0/8/4084-kubota-l3000.html. (L3000 is a 1.5L 3 cylinder, L2501 is a 1.6L 3 cylinder). Solid machine.

Yes, you could add a backhoe, but getting a factory backhoe would be hard to find. Putting a new backhoe on it means a 3ph backhoe. You can do it, but they're not generally well regarded. If I really wanted a backhoe I'd probably look at a newer (or entirely new) machine. But I'd ask the question of whether you really need a backhoe at all - what would you be digging that needs a backhoe? You can do a lot with a FEL, the few things you might need a backhoe for you can usually rent an excavator and do a better job of.

In terms of attachments:
1. You have the FEL, that's the hard one
2. Anything that goes on the 3ph is industry standard - most things fit most tractors (within size categories)
3. Things that go on the FEL like forks, grapple etc, probably a bit harder. That'll be a pin on bucket, you can get a pin on quick attach for that size machine, which makes it easy to attach forks. Or just do what I'm doing at the moment and bang the pins out, pin on the forks. Bang the pins out and pin on the bucket. It sucks a lot, but it works, and it's better than not having forks.
4. Mowers you'd get a RFM probably for that machine (says it didn't come with a MMM anyway), so that's just another 3ph attachment, any RFM in the right size will fit.
 

Chad2021!

New member

Equipment
Looking
May 19, 2021
3
0
1
Colorado
In broad terms that machine became (over time) the L2501. http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/004/0/8/4084-kubota-l3000.html. (L3000 is a 1.5L 3 cylinder, L2501 is a 1.6L 3 cylinder). Solid machine.

Yes, you could add a backhoe, but getting a factory backhoe would be hard to find. Putting a new backhoe on it means a 3ph backhoe. You can do it, but they're not generally well regarded. If I really wanted a backhoe I'd probably look at a newer (or entirely new) machine. But I'd ask the question of whether you really need a backhoe at all - what would you be digging that needs a backhoe? You can do a lot with a FEL, the few things you might need a backhoe for you can usually rent an excavator and do a better job of.

In terms of attachments:
1. You have the FEL, that's the hard one
2. Anything that goes on the 3ph is industry standard - most things fit most tractors (within size categories)
3. Things that go on the FEL like forks, grapple etc, probably a bit harder. That'll be a pin on bucket, you can get a pin on quick attach for that size machine, which makes it easy to attach forks. Or just do what I'm doing at the moment and bang the pins out, pin on the forks. Bang the pins out and pin on the bucket. It sucks a lot, but it works, and it's better than not having forks.
4. Mowers you'd get a RFM probably for that machine (says it didn't come with a MMM anyway), so that's just another 3ph attachment, any RFM in the right size will fit.
Paul L,
Thank you for the knowledge! I managed to get some more info on the tractor in question.
It’s a 1995 model.
This tractor has 850 hours on it looks to be in decent shape.

This one is not HST, this is a 8speed.
pros & cons?
After doing some reading this model is a pretty plane Jane down and dirty base model if I reading correctly. That doesn’t bother me in the least, less stuff to go wrong, I think?
 

PaulL

Well-known member

Equipment
B2601
Jul 17, 2017
2,204
1,176
113
NZ
Yup, no HST available in that model according to tractor data. In that vintage tractor you probably wouldn't want HST, although personally I would strongly recommend an HST tractor if you can find one (probably a bit newer machine). Beyond a certain age tractors hold their value, so a bit newer machine probably wouldn't cost a lot more.

8 speed transmission is fine, I assume it's 2 over 4 (so a hi-low, then a 4 speed with reverse). That's also how it has two reverse gears. There's no synchros on that, so you stop to change unless you've practiced rev matching really well.

The big difference between HST and gear transmissions is any type of back and forth work. Gear tractors obviously work - they've been around for a hundred years. But HST is far easier, particularly for a novice user. Remember that a tractor gearbox isn't like a car gearbox, they're quite hard to change. If you're going backwards and forwards then there's quite a lot of work getting in and out of gear. And the clutch will be heavy - so you'll get a leg workout too. Dad's old Massey Ferguson always does a little wheel spin when you let the clutch out (not much clutch slip), and that chews up the lawn.

What are you looking to use the machine for? If you're doing ground engaging work (maintaining your driveway, mowing, plowing) then a gear drive is excellent. If you're mostly doing loader work, general handyman stuff, lift and move things, push things around, make some things flat, you'll probably prefer an HST.
 

PaulL

Well-known member

Equipment
B2601
Jul 17, 2017
2,204
1,176
113
NZ
Looks like you'd pay $5-10K for an L3000DT. You'd pay $6-12K for an L3010HST (if you can find one). This one for example sold with backhoe and loader for under $10K. KUBOTA L3010HST

I think I'd look for an HST if it was me, seems like it's not much more money.
 

Chad2021!

New member

Equipment
Looking
May 19, 2021
3
0
1
Colorado
Looks like you'd pay $5-10K for an L3000DT. You'd pay $6-12K for an L3010HST (if you can find one). This one for example sold with backhoe and loader for under $10K. KUBOTA L3010HST

I think I'd look for an HST if it was me, seems like it's not much more money.
I’m going to probably keep looking for the HST rather than the gear driven.
A loader is a must, I’m on the fence for the back hoe, seems like a lot of $$$. But could be handy for light ditch repair etc... Like you’d said there’s better machines for that type of digging.
I have a little 11 acre place, moving rocks, dead trees overall farm detail. Not cutting and bailing hay or anything too crazy.

On this small of a tractor is 4x4 all that important? I really don’t have anything all that steep. Seems like most want 4x4. Probably won’t be working all that much in the mud and snow. Maybe some snow removal...
 

PaulL

Well-known member

Equipment
B2601
Jul 17, 2017
2,204
1,176
113
NZ
I use my 4WD occasionally. You don't use it on hard ground, it winds up the transmission (there's no centre diff). But there are a few times you really use it:

1. You have a lot of weight on the front end loader, and you were too lazy to ballast properly, so your rear wheels are light. With 4WD you can still drive, with 2WD you find one rear coming off or getting light, and then it just spins

2. A bit of mud or loose - even when the ground is just a bit wet you can easily lose traction

3. Uneven ground. A 2WD tractor is usually actually a 1WD tractor - they have an open diff. One wheel off the ground = no drive. I often have one wheel off the ground over and around bumps. Many machines will have a diff lock lever (usually under your left or right heel) that you step on (don't do this whilst the wheel is spinning, you have to stop first). But that age of machine may not.

4. Braking. Tractors usually only have rear brakes. In order to get any braking from the front wheels, you need the front wheels linked to the rear - i.e. with 4WD you're also braking the front wheels

When I mow the roadside at our place, which is also on a hill, I go into M or L 4WD, it gives me more control. Otherwise, if I'm on a bit of angle into the ditch, and downhill, on a damp day, I run the risk that I get one rear wheel off and now I have no control at all - no drive, no braking. 4WD is much more confidence inspiring. The downhill side of the road goes straight down, so I'd rather not lose control near that - probably wouldn't kill me, but it'd hurt and it'd break the tractor.

Is it essential? No. People have had 2WD gear driven tractors for decades. Still 100x better than a shovel and wheelbarrow. But given the price difference isn't much, what would I buy? An HST 4WD every time. A small tractor needs all the help it can get with traction.

Dad bought a mini-ex for his ditches and track work. Having a bucket with tilt makes a huge difference to put an angle on the track or ditch. A FEL can do a fair bit of ditch work, but for serious work you'd want a mini-ex. The question is whether you have anything in between that a backhoe would help with. Don't get me wrong - I'd love a backhoe. I think it would be awesome to just go out to the shed, put the backhoe on and dig some stuff. But the reality is that I dig holes of that sort maybe twice a year, and one of them wouldn't be suitable for a backhoe for some reason. And I'd have to store the backhoe the rest of the time, plus they aren't cheap.

Even with the mini-ex, I had Dad's old one at the house here before he sold it for nearly a year. I always used to ask him why he had a shovel out when he had an excavator, and he'd tell me reasons why it wasn't suitable. When I had it here at the house I understood. Every time you drive it on your lawn it makes a mess. It digs ditches wider than you need. If you're being careful, you really need to use a spade and take the sod off first, and you don't want to mix the topsoil into the clay. If you're just hammering through 200' of ditch a day every day, they're the right machine. But if you only do it occasionally and you want things looking nice when you're done, sometimes doing it by hand is better. I actually got a chain digger when I trenched in our irrigation system - way faster than a mini ex. I also cut my stormwater, my power, my sewerage, my garden water, all of which weren't where I thought they were (new to us house, but apparently all those services had moved around/been extended over time, so they didn't go in any logical places). I spend quite a bit of time fixing what I wrecked, and it maybe would have been faster in total to do it by hand.

It all comes down to money, time and fun. If you could find an L3010HST with backhoe on it (like that one above) for around $10K, that'd be awesome. But if you find a machine without a backhoe, I'd say you'll have almost as much fun, and do almost as much work.

If it were me, I'd buy without a backhoe (easier to find). Then if you decide you want a backhoe, I'd wait for a machine with one already on it (you already have a tractor, so no hurry), then sell your machine and buy that new one. Maybe have both for a while. Tractors don't lose value, you'll sell yours for what you originally paid, and a tractor with a backhoe already on it will be far more cost effective than trying to add a backhoe to an existing machine. Most of the guys on here have been through a few tractors, and it's not expensive to change them. Fun even. Better still, if you needed a backhoe you might find that you also need a slightly larger machine at the same time, or maybe it needs to be a bit newer, or have a cab, or whatever. The family financial controller is sometimes more understanding when you sneak up on these things.

EDIT: on trees, a grapple or forks at a minimum if you're moving tree trimmings. A grapple is best. You need a 3rd function valve for that, and again they cost a bit to add (circa $1K plus a grapple is around $2-3K). A tractor with a grapple already usually doesn't cost that much more - so buying a machine already set up with what you want would be more cost effective. But unlikely to find grapple and 3rd function in that age machine I think. I don't have a grapple and use forks, and they are far easier to work with than a bucket for branches, small logs etc. The bucket sides kind of tip everything out - they work well for soil/gravel etc, but not for trees.
 
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