L295DT cut off & wont restart

Tgore76

Member

Equipment
Kubota L295dt
Aug 6, 2021
43
3
8
North Carolina
Several months ago - my L295DT sputtered out and wouldn’t restart while I was brush hogging. There was lots of gunk/sediment in tank and clogging fuel.
a friend help me remove tank, clean (including valve). We reinstalled, new filter, line, bled, got it to start!!

Today, I went to property. Tractor is parked in covered shelter, at slight incline (nose up). I started the tractor and left it at a medium idle while I tinkered with some other stuff. After about 10 minutes it stalled out!!?

I checked the fuel tank and it wasn’t empty but since it looked near the bottom I added two or 3 gallons of diesel. I checked the bleeder valve on the fuel filter and further up the line and fuel came out both. It is turning over fine and chugs a few times but it will not run😞

pretty clear it’s not getting fuel. wondering if anybody has any ideas how to start troubleshooting… I don’t have gauges and compression kits and all the tools that a real mechanic has!

- Todd
 

Russell King

Well-known member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
4,735
1,022
113
Austin, Texas
Okay you may have a rusted out fuel tank and clogged lines.

Was the tank full when you left it and was low when you went back? How long was it sitting for since you cleaned the tank?

See this thread on my L185 and the similar problem I had

I would suggest you try to get a tank from 007kubotaguy since he probably has some. I repaired mine but would have replaced it if I knew about him having tanks to sell.

To get it running you will have to bleed it at the injectors after getting fuel to the bleed valve on the injection pump (by gravity feed). That may be what you have done but not idea what “further up the line “ means.

If you don’t know how to bleed it this is a good way:
1) make sure that fuel tank is near full and that fuel is running freely to the injection pump.
2) set throttle to high motor RPM speed
3) there should be a bleed valve on the injection pump, open it and let the air and fuel drain until there is no more air. Tighten the valve back up.
4) crack the injection lines to the injector at the injector (not near the pump)
5) if there is a decompression knob pull it out
6) crank the engine in short bursts 30 seconds and then wait about a minute to let the starter cool off
7) watch the injector pipe and notice if any air bubbles are coming out. When you don’t see any more bubbles then tighten up the nut on the line.
8) repeat for all injectors until all are tightened back
9) try to start the tractor but don’t burn out your starter.
10) repeat steps 4 to 9 until tractor is starting.
 
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Tgore76

Member

Equipment
Kubota L295dt
Aug 6, 2021
43
3
8
North Carolina
Okay you may have a rusted out fuel tank and clogged lines.

Was the tank full when you left it and was low when you went back? How long was it sitting for since you cleaned the tank?

See this thread on my L185 and the similar problem I had

I would suggest you try to get a tank from 007kubotaguy since he probably has some. I repaired mine but would have replaced it if I knew about him having tanks to sell.

To get it running you will have to bleed it at the injectors after getting fuel to the bleed valve on the injection pump (by gravity feed). That may be what you have done but not idea what “further up the line “ means.

If you don’t know how to bleed it this is a good way:
1) make sure that fuel tank is near full and that fuel is running freely to the injection pump.
2) set throttle to high motor RPM speed
3) there should be a bleed valve on the injection pump, open it and let the air and fuel drain until there is no more air. Tighten the valve back up.
4) crack the injection lines to the injector at the injector (not near the pump)
5) if there is a decompression knob pull it out
6) crank the engine in short bursts 30 seconds and then wait about a minute to let the starter cool off
7) watch the injector pipe and notice if any air bubbles are coming out. When you don’t see any more bubbles then tighten up the nut on the line.
8) repeat for all injectors until all are tightened back
9) try to start the tractor but don’t burn out your starter.
10) repeat steps 4 to 9 until tractor is starting.
Ummm….probably been sitting for a month or so since I cleaned/replaced. I don’t see rust in tank? I’m thinking that even though I could see some fuel in the bottom of the tank, perhaps dry at valve since parked on an angle and got air in lines?
I don’t see any fuel stains or in dirt? After I put tank on (pain in the butt) I am getting leaking when on side-to-side incline and over 1/2 tank - I’m guessing at weld. Wondering if easier to coat or replace in future (hoping to get by keeping less than 1/2 full till I have another reason to take dash/firewall apart again).
 

Russell King

Well-known member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
4,735
1,022
113
Austin, Texas
Then try to bleed it and see if you can get it running again is the suggestion.
 
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Mark_BX25D

Well-known member

Equipment
Bx25D
Jul 19, 2020
1,611
1,141
113
Virginia
Do you have two filters? I don't know your model, but some do. The second one gets overlooked.
 

Dave_eng

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
5,144
941
113
Williamstown Ontario Canada
I think only one…but I’ll check!
Check with forum member 007kubotaguy. He is often parting out the older L series machinesand may have a good tank..
Use the envelope symbol at the top right of most pages to start the conversation which is private.
This is where you can use email addresses because the physhers cannot see them.
Dave