L245DT won't start

[AshleyBS55]

Ok, folks, here's the background. I had to take my gas tank off to repair my aftermarket power steering unit. (Thanks to everyone who gave advice on that project.) I emptied the old fuel out as it had be sitting for over a year. I covered all the holes to prevent wasps, water, etc. getting in. After I put it back together, I filled it full of fuel, added fuel stabilizer, and a new fuel filter. I bled the fuel filter, fuel pump, and the three injectors on top while trying to start it. A few bubbles still come out of the injectors, but it has run before with less air in the lines. It cranks and sounds like it will turn over any minute, but it doesn't. I've used the decompression knob to spin the motor faster, put the accelerator on fast. I'm not sure where to go. I have never had a problem with the engine or transmission on this tractor, just the crappy job the previous owner did on the power steering unit, which is now fixed.
Any help is greatly appreciated. If anyone can tell me how to post a video here, I've got one so you can here the engine try to start.
Thanks,
Bruce

 

[Daren Todd]

Easiest way i have found for a video is to post it to youtube. Then copy and paste the link here

 

[AshleyBS55]

Thanks, Daren Todd. Video ready @ https://youtu.be/jH51ogKWE6I

 

[coachgeo]

Confused.

In the video and this post you mentioned you bleed the injectors yet you also said you did not loosen the nuts holding the injector lines to the injector.

So how did you bleed the injectors? It is at these nuts that you bleed them.

Is your fuel petcock valve turned on? Would not be first time that's forgotten to be re-opened. BTDT

 

[D2Cat]

Bruce, you didn't take the GAS tank off you took the FUEL tank off... Just a word of caution... you call it a gas tank and eventually you or someone close to you will actually put gas in the tank.

Now to get Nelly Belle going.....loosen the three nuts at the top of the injectors. Push the throttle to full. Turn engine over in short burst of 15/18 seconds. Wait for same amount and repeat this process. It may take 4 or 5 times to get all the air out. Then tighten the nuts. Now set your glow plugs so they heat up, and it should start.

If it does not start you either have a loose connection on the fuel lines somewhere allowing air in, or your glow plugs are not heating up.

Be patient. Don't get in a hurry and overheat your starter.

 

[AshleyBS55]

D2Cat,
Thanks for the correction. I never say "gas", I always say fuel so I have no idea why I typed it, but being correct is important. I usually set the glow plugs before I start, so I'll try it your way tomorrow.

coachgeo,
yes, petcock valve is turned on. In the past when I've bled the injectors, I bled the ones on top, not the ones near the top of the fuel pump.

Thanks again for all your guys' help.

 

[AshleyBS55]

D2Cat,

Is there a way to tell my glow plugs are not heating up?

 

[coachgeo]

coachgeo, .... In the past when I've bled the injectors, I bled the ones on top, not the ones near the top of the fuel pump.....

Yes top ones (Injector line nut) for bleeding. As spoken in the video sounded like you did not loosen top or bottom because bottom was not holding steady. It must be done at the top. Might require a second wrench to hold the bottom tight and only turn the top injector line nut.

 

[D2Cat]

That little round chrome ring with a hole in the center on the left side of your dash (I think) should get a red glow. And if you put you finger down NEAR it, you should feel heat.

You could take a test light and touch the tip of the first glow plug, and with the key switched counter-clockwise should light. In it doesn't you'll have to do more inspection. Perhaps the GP indicator is bad. If it is current won't be getting to the GP's.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

No, you do not need to crack the lines loose at the top of the injection pump, it won't do anything to help get the air out of the system.
You do need to bleed the injection lines at the injectors again, as it still has air trapped in them.
Crack them all loose and start with the front while throttle set to high, decompression knob on, crack it quite a bit, 20 some Revs.
Glow it and try it again.

 

[AshleyBS55]

D2Cat,

Thanks. Followed your instructions and it started right up. Man did I like hearing the sound of that running.
Here's the situation now. When I turn the throttle down, it quits running. It sounds like a slight miss, so while it was running I bled the injectors again. The first and third bled ok, but as soon as I loosened the middle one, the engine stopped.
Any thoughts on how I can get it to idle at a slower speed.

Thanks again. My wife says, "You da man!"

 

[Tooljunkie]

Generally when you loosen an injector line, the engine will change in sound, as its losing fuel to that cylinder. The one that stalls tractor is the only one working. As far as troubleshooting the cause (injectors, pump or compression issue) we can only speculate what your trouble is.
Is decompression linkage returning to its full rest position?
If fuel is coming from each injector nut when you bleed then likely your injector pump is ok.

That leaves plugged injectors or valves need adjusting.
I cant imagine its piston rings if it was running well prior to the project.

 

[AshleyBS55]

New problem. I was letting the engine run and warm up for awhile. Still couldn't slow the engine. I turned the steering wheel a couple of times to check to new hydraulic connections. I looked and suddenly I have a leak near the alternator. (See video on youtube.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDBA6s5fqQ0

Is this going to be a bear to fix?

Man, one thing after another.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

STOP!

Do not run it anymore!

Either:

You are blowing gaskets and possibly seals out because you are building huge amounts of pressure in the crankcase!

Or you have blown the seal out of the hydraulic pump and are filling the motor full of hydraulic fluid.

or you simply have a bad gasket.

Check all fluid levels
Pull the valve cover and clean and clear out in the valve cover vent.
make sure the valves are adjusted properly, as they sound like they are too loose and not relieving compression on the exhaust stroke.

Then it looks like after to get the compression issues worked out you will need to pull the front of the motor apart and replace the gear case gasket.

 

[AshleyBS55]

Thanks, Wolfman. Sounds like another long project. Couple of questions:

1. What would cause the build-up of huge amounts of pressure in the crankcase?
2. What might have caused the seal to blow allowing hydraulic fluid in the engine?
3. Once I get the valve cover off, how difficult is it to adjust the valves?

My learning curve on this tractor has been steep, but I'm gettin' there thanks to your guys' help.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thanks, Wolfman. Sounds like another long project. Couple of questions:

1. What would cause the build-up of huge amounts of pressure in the crankcase?



2. What might have caused the seal to blow allowing hydraulic fluid in the engine?



3. Once I get the valve cover off, how difficult is it to adjust the valves?

#1 Miss adjusted valves, plugged vent in valve cover.

#2 Old age, dead heading the pump, or a malfunctioning relief valve.

#3 Ten min job.
Do you have the WSM?
If not ask me and I'll give you a link to download a copy.

 

[AshleyBS55]

No, I don't have the WSM.
Thanks. I'm hoping it's just a bad gasket as the tractor sat without running for over a year.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

No, I don't have the WSM.
Thanks. I'm hoping it's just a bad gasket as the tractor sat without running for over a year.

Check your PM's for the link for the WSM.

Sorry, but a bad gasket from sitting is highly unlikely.