L235 Runs away

[farrelmh]

Hello all!,

New to the Forum

I have a 1985 L235 3cyl, once you start it. it will take about 40 secs to reach max revs. and the Fuel stop doesn't work. key doesn't stop it.. only the decompression lever does.. or turning the fuel selection to off, will shut it down after a little bit.. I have taken the stop cover off. and the first level has two springs that is free and clear, the Bigger one behind it doesn't move at all.. is is suppose to ? would rather fix on my own , then take to dealer. Ive read about Crankcase vent being plugged? no idea where that is..

Please help a new Kabota owner!!

Many thanks
Mike

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'll email you a link for a WSM download for that tractor, it should help with repairs.

The breather issue is usually limited to newer emissions based tractors.

Your most likely going to have to pull the Injection pump and have it rebuilt as it sounds like the rack is stuck wide open, this also leads to the problem that removing the injection pump requires you to be able to move the rack.

 

[farrelmh]

I'll email you a link for a WSM download for that tractor, it should help with repairs.

The breather issue is usually limited to newer emissions based tractors.

Your most likely going to have to pull the Injection pump and have it rebuilt as it sounds like the rack is stuck wide open, this also leads to the problem that removing the injection pump requires you to be able to move the rack.

Thanks Sir! ... i hoping not to have to rebuild anything... is there anyway to free that slide ..? i can push with a screw driver to the right but its very hard to do ...

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You could pull the injection pump out and soak it in kerosene and see if that frees it up, but that's a long shot.

 

[farrelmh]

You could pull the injection pump out and soak it in kerosene and see if that frees it up, but that's a long shot.

So, i just found out that the Tank is full of Kero and not diesel... not sure why he didnt run Diesel, anyway. if i do soak it , how will i know if the rack frees up ? is there a way to test it when its out?

many thanks
mike

 

[coachgeo]

Why do you think it is Kero?

If she was run on Kero most her life; then you're going to have to rebuild sooner or later. Probably sooner. Kero burns hotter and has less lubrication qualities than diesel. Kubota counts on the lube qualities of diesel to lubricate the IP.

if it is old fuel rather it be Kero or diesel you need to drain her. Think I've read stale diesel can smell like kero. WVO can smell like it too if its going rank.

Fresh Kero; not the end of the world. Just add some oil (ATF?) to up the lube characteristics. Course in a "new to you" tractor still remove it to remove a variable in the diagnostic trail.




PS- if compression on the engine is good and you give up on this one.. PM me. I may be interested in her for parts to rebuild my L235

 

[farrelmh]

Why do you think it is Kero?

If she was run on Kero most her life; then you're going to have to rebuild sooner or later. Probably sooner. Kero burns hotter and has less lubrication qualities than diesel. Kubota counts on the lube qualities of diesel to lubricate the IP.

if it is old fuel rather it be Kero or diesel you need to drain her. Think I've read stale diesel can smell like kero. WVO can smell like it too if its going rank.

Fresh Kero; not the end of the world. Just add some oil (ATF?) to up the lube characteristics. Course in a "new to you" tractor still remove it to remove a variable in the diagnostic trail.




PS- if compression on the engine is good and you give up on this one.. PM me. I may be interested in her for parts to rebuild my L235

Its def Kero, and i drained some and found alot of water in tank.. im going to drain all of i and fill with fresh diesel. i talked to the guy i got it from and he has ran kero in it for the last 4 years. so does this mean that the IP has to be rebuilt..? and is there a procedure and parts list someone has?... or should i buy a rebuilt one offline for 450? or can i take IP to dealer and see what they can do ... ?

 

[coachgeo]

.... i talked to the guy i got it from and he has ran kero in it for the last 4 years. so does this mean that the IP has to be rebuilt.... ... ?

If he really did run straight Kero sooner than not your going to have to rebuild the head; IP, and potentially the whole engine. see: http://www.bellperformance.com/blog/kerosene-in-diesel-engine

Don't know how old this fella is. Call him back and see if he ran straight kero or if he added anything to help bring the lubricity back up. He may have been a wise old man and been adding lubricant.

Also check to make sure he's not crossing up terms. For example is to him offroad diesel and Kero the same thing? THEY ARE NOT though he may call them the same thing. Offroad diesel is fine and may actually be what he's been using all along.. he just calls it Kero. If he's an old fart lol; get from him name of the place where he use to get his fuel, and which pumps. Then call them to see if it is kero or offroad diesel.

 

[farrelmh]

Call him back and see if he ran straight kero or if he added anything to help bring the lubricity back up.

If he ran straight Kero sooner than not your going to have to rebuild the head; IP, and potentially the whole engine. Search the internet on info about running Kero in a diesel engine. (and why you shouldn't)

i called him ... and he said thats the first tank of Kero Ever ran in motor.. and used it 4 times since last winter.. and it was Straight Kero and no additive.

 

[D2Cat]

If you're needing an injector pump or other fuel parts give these folk a call.

I got a new IP for an L305 (just a skosch bigger then yours) delivered to my door for $426 and no core charge.

If/when you remove you IP be sure to notice and save the shims on the mounting lip of the pump. They are required to set the timing. You can get a new pump and put the same shims in place and your engine is timed!!

http://oregonfuelinjection.com/

 

[coachgeo]

ahhhhh. only one tank of kero stretched out over a year..... and still sat long enough to attract water..... well IMHO your probably fine; for at least the need to rebuild anything beyond the Injection Pump.

Search in here for "Stuck Rack" and review what others have done/recommended to help you get a better feel for what your up against.

Change out all your fuel filters!!

Have you looked at the oil in the engine?

Have you looked at the coolant?

AKA- any signs of oil in coolant or water/coolant in oil?

 

[Tooljunkie]

Adding something to your fresh diesel to increase lubricity may help, the kero may be all thats causing injector pump to stick.

 

[MagKarl]

It's somewhat difficult to get a real solid answer, but a lot of folks online say kerosene and #1 diesel are either very similar or the same. Kero/#1 is often used in colder climates in the winter. I'd definitely add some lube if it was mine, I use 2 stroke oil in my diesel fuel but sometimes use atf or clean motor oil as well.

 

[farrelmh]

It's somewhat difficult to get a real solid answer, but a lot of folks online say kerosene and #1 diesel are either very similar or the same. Kero/#1 is often used in colder climates in the winter. I'd definitely add some lube if it was mine, I use 2 stroke oil in my diesel fuel but sometimes use atf or clean motor oil as well.

Ill try and drain everything tomorrow an get fresh diesel... but ill have to see how to determine if the rack is stuck or not... oil is clean and coolant looks ok as well.. it was DEF just Kero.. guy is my age ( 32 ) so he told me it was from the local truck stop.. so just water and kero lol... ill search for stuck rack.. but anyone have any ideas how to check it to make sure thats the cause of my run away ?

 

[farrelmh]

If you're needing an injector pump or other fuel parts give these folk a call.

I got a new IP for an L305 (just a skosch bigger then yours) delivered to my door for $426 and no core charge.

If/when you remove you IP be sure to notice and save the shims on the mounting lip of the pump. They are required to set the timing. You can get a new pump and put the same shims in place and your engine is timed!!

http://oregonfuelinjection.com/

Where would i find out what EXACT IP i have ? i dont see any markings on it from top...

 

[farrelmh]

I'll email you a link for a WSM download for that tractor, it should help with repairs.

The breather issue is usually limited to newer emissions based tractors.

Your most likely going to have to pull the Injection pump and have it rebuilt as it sounds like the rack is stuck wide open, this also leads to the problem that removing the injection pump requires you to be able to move the rack.

Any luck finding that WSM.. so i can identify the parts better sir?

 

[Diydave]

Have you tried checking the throttle linkage, to see if something is causing it to bind at WOT???

 

[Daren Todd]

On my l1501, there is a cover on the side of the injection pump. You can access the rod that controls the rack. The rod stuck on mine when my father in law owned it. You can identify it by a spring being attached to it coming from the throttle linkage. I was able to spray some pb blaster onto the rack. And reach the ends of the rod with a flat screw driver. I worked the rod back and forth coating it liberally with the pb blaster. After I had the rod moving freely using the throttle, I changed the oil to remove the pb blaster No more issues with the throttle after that

 

[farrelmh]

On my l1501, there is a cover on the side of the injection pump. You can access the rod that controls the rack. The rod stuck on mine when my father in law owned it. You can identify it by a spring being attached to it coming from the throttle linkage. I was able to spray some pb blaster onto the rack. And reach the ends of the rod with a flat screw driver. I worked the rod back and forth coating it liberally with the pb blaster. After I had the rod moving freely using the throttle, I changed the oil to remove the pb blaster No more issues with the throttle after that

Are you referring to the STOP cover? when i remove that there are two levers in the back.. thats it.. one has 2 springs on it. ( front one ) ... the Rear one has a knob on it that looks like the Fuel stop lever hits... that is the one that doesnt like to move... is that the rack ? or do i have to remove the throttle top cover.. ?

 

[Daren Todd]

Can you post pictures please. I couldn't tell you if your in the right spot with out a visual


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