L175 Clutch/Transmission issue

[prevostna]

The reverse on my L175 tractor would no longer stay in gear. It would jump out as soon as the clutch was released. I thought I could correct the problem by removing some free play by adjusting the Pedal Link.

I tightened the pedal link and when I went to re attach it to the Clutch Link(the flat bar that hangs down from the transmission housing that connects to the clutch link), the clutch link had moved towards the rear of the tractor and would not fall back into place. I removed the Clutch Access Plate just under the fuel filter and noticed that Hub had rotated some. I spun it maybe 5 degrees with my finger and the clutch link fell back into place. So I put the Pedal and Clutch Link back together.

When I cranked the tractor, the PTO is now automatically engaged and the gears are no longer correct

I think i have opened up a total can of worms on MAD MAX (my lil L175)

 

[prevostna]

Thanks Vic. I'll give that a look. My cousin was suppose to drag Mad Max home from the camp yesterday but left it cause his wife was on him to get home. I'll have to check it out when I go up Friday morning.

Bow Season opens October 1st in MS.

thanks

 

[prevostna]

I got Mad Max home and removed the top plate on the transmission that houses the Gear and PTO stick Shifts. I couldn't really tell if the forks were bent so I removed the bottom part of the plate and lifted the entire mechanism out with the forks. The forks are fine.

It appears that the end of the PTO stick had jumped out of the round hole that it sits down inside the tranny case. While I can take all of the gears and slide them up and down their rails, I can't do this with the PTO gear. Is that normal?

Also, is there a trick to putting the forks back into their proper position? It seems that I need to pull the pins out of the rails to allow for free play in order to get the forks back into the slots on the gears. Is that case?

thanks

 

[prevostna]

after serveral trial and error attempts, I got the the forks back on the rails. What you need is called a Pin Knock. I bought a nice set from Lowes for $12. This allows you to knock the pins out forks and rails with out doing any damage.

With the pins removed, you can now slide the forks up the rails and proceed to remove the rails. With the rails removed, you can now put the forks on their proper gear in the gear case and simply slide the rail back through the hole in each fork.

You do have to pay some attention on lining up the forks on the rails in order to have the push springs for the left and right forks line up in the middle (neutral).

It seems my problem deals with the PTO fork. The PTO Gear shift has a small rod that attaches to the Fork down in the transfer case. there is a spring a ball bearing and pin that goes between the end of the fork and the bottom of the gear shift.

I have order the parts for a whopping $5. Hope to be back in business soon.

 

[Monte]

I've got this same problem with my L1500DT where you need to hold the gear stick up in reverse otherwise as soon as you release the clutch it will pop out. I want to work out how to fix it between now and when even holding the stick in reverse won't work but to be honest I don't know where to start. Can anyone recommend a manual or even a few pictures for troubleshooting this problem. From searching the forum it seems to be a fairly common issue but with a few different possible causes.

 

[LRP]

monte, list, reverse gear problem seems to be common on the l1500/l175.
there is a thread reverse gear that talks about changeing it without spliting
the tractor in half. as for puting the shifting forks plate back in is only a 1 min
jpb. look up my reverse gear lock. i will try to dig up my pics on how to put the shiftforks back in real easy.
Louis

 

[Monte]

Thanks LRP, I found your reverse lock pics. I might make something like that up while I'm working out how to do the rest as it would keep me going for a while I think. I'd love to see the pics of how to put the shifting forks back in. There was also a post suggesting that bending the fork is another option.

 

[LRP]

Monte, i would not recomend bending the fork. when the reverse gear
is engaged, it is barely engageing the gears on both ends. this first pic
is what i started with. a aluminum horseshoe to keep the forward gears
spaced just right. the hook tool was for pushing and pulling the forks,
wrong, this is best described as rolling the dice. on to plkan B. i still used the gear spacer
tool, took the shifter lever cover of the shifting fork plate. this was a peice
of cake to put the shifting forks in the forward gears, next the reverse gear
fork , now the plate was of to one side because the one plunger had
moved out to far, (white arrow in the pic). i squeezed the plunger in
with some chanel lock pliers and i was then able to center the plate. u then drop the pto levers onto there sockets. after u do it once, it would take less than a minute. notice the aluminum horse shoe tool is still in place in the second pic. notice the dedent springs are in place, don,t turn that shifter
fork plate upsidedown or u will loose the springs and balls garunteed.

 

[brown10]

Greetings, I'm new to the forum and I know this discussion was a while back. I'm going to attempt the reverse gear change through the clutch housing inspection area as described elsewhere on the forum. I have removed the top plate and identified the gear. The teeth are ground down on the back exactly as described.The shifter forks seem to be the biggest challenge. Are these photos sitll available or is their any new info on how best to accomplish this. I'll post some pictures of my L175 soon. It has less than 1,300 hours on it and is a great little tractor. It pulls better and seems to have a stronger lift than my old 8N. Thanks for the help. - jerry

 

[prevostna]

Jerry, I no longer have my L175. Gave it to a friend as I bought a B7510. I'll search for some photos that I had taken. I can tell you that putting the forks on, while seems challenging at first, it gets easier w/ multiple tries

Be sure that you knock the ends out on the top plate for each rail. This will allow you to totally remove the rail. In order to put all the gears back in nuetral, all you should have to do is move the High Low gear to the middle. Now you can set your forks back on the gears then set your top plate on. Once you have completed that you can now slide each rail back through the top plate and through the fork.

 

[brown10]

Thanks for the help. I managed to get the old gear off and the new gear on the shaft yesterday evening through the top. I haven't started trying to but the plate back on yet. I am having a heck of a time getting the little retention plate in the clutch inspection housing back on the shaft, in place, and the two srews started. I gave up some time close to bed time. Everything keeps falling into the bottom of the bell housing. My fingers are too short.

 

[brown10]

It's done! Man, don't wanna do that again. Shifting forks were a piece of cake compared to getting that plate in that shaft groove and those two bolts started.

 

[brown10]

Here's what the bad one looks like. I'm sure this happens due to operator error, but it doen't look like much of this gear makes connection when in reverse. Works good now though. - jerry