Injector Inspection (B7100HST-D)

[Blackjack]

Never pulled off an injector and wanted a gut check on the process from someone who has.

The manual states: With pressure and bleed back lines removed, unscrew injector from its mounting position on cylinder head.

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I'm assuming they mean unscrew the whole assembly at what is part 070 in the diagram, and NOT part 010.
Should I heat the block (run the engine briefly) prior to this to assist in removal?
I have a feeling these have been in there since 1980.
Would you suggest some PB Blaster or WD or penetrating oil to assist in the removal?
Is it worth attempting to clean on my own (as a novice at this), or would you suggest just turning them in for inspection, repair?

Blackjack.

 

[hodge]

You should pull the entire injector.
I would take them to a shop- unless you have the equipment to pop test them and know what you are looking at for the spray pattern, it would be money well spent to have a diesel shop go through them.
I pulled the injectors from my Dodge truck with almost 200,000 miles on them, and had no problem getting them loose. I would go ahead and spray some penetrating oil (probably not too heavy, so that contaminated extra oil doesn't run down into the hole when you pull the injector), let them sit for a few days, then give it a try.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

With what I read in your other post I would highly doubt that it has any injector problems.
Yes pull them from the 070 spot, be carful when removing the 020 nut as not to break the hard line on the bypasses.
You really wont see anything wrong with them and most likely will need to take them to a injector shop to get them tested, cleaned and rebuilt.

 

[Blackjack]

Wolfman...you're probably right...it ain't the injectors.
I just want to know.
The tractor seems too rich on starting, and I have to almost starve the engine (barely open the throttle) to get it to start.

(Of course, the hard start clearly is compounded by low compression with the blow-by -previous post-)....but it starts easier if I keep the throttle almost off....then once it's started I can roll with the throttle.

I was guessing the injectors might be dripping/leaking partially....rather than spraying and not shutting off completely.

Thanks for the rapid responses.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I had that exact same problem with the D750 I pulled out, the lack of compression was making it run very rich.
It and would only start by pulling the shut off starving it of fuel and cranking and then just a tiny bit of throttle till it would fire up then you were fine, well except the cloud of smoke that come out the breather hose.

 

[jerrell]

I haven't worked with kabota injectors but assume they (diesel) are all the same, i looked on another forum and got instruction on how to check the injector, take the injector out and reconnect it to fuel line . crank the engine over until the injector spurts fuel out. CAUTION do not let the injector spray fuel on you hand or body ANYWHERE , the fuel is under pressure and will enter the skin like an medical air injection. use a piece of cardboard held about 1 inch from the bottom of injector and if you have a good circle of spray , the injectors are working properly, if just gusses out, or bad spray pattern. need overhauled or replaced. mine was a yanmar 2 cyl and got the parts at a fraction the cost of new injector.