how do I drop the oil pan on a 4WD L355SS??

[EdKubotaL355]

Hey guys, do any of you know the easiest way to drop the oil pan on a 1992 4WD L355SS Kubota? I thought it would be fairly easy but when I got under the tractor I realized the front drive axle and its housing runs lengthways under the oil pan.. I read the shop manual and it explains with (minimal) words and lacks photos (for the procedure) in this section. I have attached the exploded view of the two-piece drive axel from the shop manual. Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[007kubotaguy]

Hello
The easiest way to remove the oil pan is remove the drive shaft. Disconnect the electrical wires to the headlights. Disconnect the positive battery cable. Disconnect intake hose from air cleaner and radiator hoses from the radiator. Remove the steering linkage from the front axle. Support the tractor under the transmission. Unbolt the entire front axle assembly from the front of the engine and roll it away. Then the oil pan will be very easy to remove. Good luck.
Lance

 

[rbargeron]

I hadn't followed your posts on this tractor before now. What are the reasons leading you to take the bottom off?

007kubotaguy's info is right - and unfortunately the 1720 loader complicates things a bit further. For a normal split (clutch job) the loader can stay in place, boom raised up and blocked with posts standing on the side rails. Unbolt the chin bar from the rails so it can roll away with the front axle, radiator, etc.

Make sure the support under the clutch housing is strong (stacked timbers?) to take the overhung weight of the engine and raised loader. The front pump can be unbolted with hoses connected. The pump will turn with an electric drill if needed to move the bucket. Disconnect the radiator strut at the firewall. Put wedges in to prevent axle pivoting.

Careful planning and minimal helpers are best for handling heavy parts. Good luck, Dick B

 

[EdKubotaL355]

Thanks guys for the knowledge I see now why the whole front end needs to come off to access the oil pan.

rbargeron I was going to drop the pan to inspect the lower end for noticeable wear since the previous owner ran the tractor for a few years with what he says was a "perforated head gasket" but it turned out to be a cracked head verified by magneflux. He ran the tractor white stacking for quite some time. But now I'm debating to just through a new head on her for this season so I can get some much needed clean up done around our acreage. I'm torn..

 

[D2Cat]

Ed, if you need the tractor for task now, why not get the new head and get the upper end fixed and use it. The lower end can be addressed when you get more time.

Might make sure it has a working oil pressure gauge just to put you at ease. When you get the upper end fixed, and it starts easily, and has good oil pressure, I'd be satisfied to use it.

Double check where you purchase the head. There have been situations reported on the forum of aftermarket heads not working as expected, requiring removal again. Use caution to save time.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Pretty easy to tell if the mains have excessive clearance by the working oil pressure when at operating temperature. Consult the WSM for the pressure reading at rated RPM hot. I'f it's substantially below the stated pressure, the mains are over clearance.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I would put a head on it and run it.

You'll only be out a head gasket if you need to take it down further in the future.

 

[rbargeron]

I would put a head on it and run it. .......

I would too. Run it and see how it meets your needs for size, strength etc. and how it performs - hydraulics, shuttle, steering, gearboxes, front wheel drive. You may find its ok to use as-is.