Hooking up implements on dollies?

[BillK01]

Thinking about building some dollies for my FEL, Snow Blower and Back Blade.

My plan is to build them out of 2 x 6's and buy the cheap Harbor Freight furniture dollies and take the casters off for the dollies I'm gonna build (cheaper than buying individual casters).

My question is - how difficult is it to attach the implements when they are on dollies that may roll and shift? Don't want to waste time and money on building only to find out the implements are a pain to mount because they keep rolling around during the process.

I'm assuming I'll have to drive my BX on 2 long 2x6's beforehand to try to get the connections to line up better. Just concerned that the additional height of the casters and 1 more 2x6 messes up the geometry and makes to too difficult to get things lined up. Not as concerned with the back blade since I've got the quick hitch.

Thanks.

 

[bcp]

.

My question is - how difficult is it to attach the implements when they are on dollies that may roll and shift? Don't want to waste time and money on building only to find out the implements are a pain to mount because they keep rolling around during the process.

That's a benefit, not a problem.

When an implement is a little out of alignment, you just roll it into alignment instead of having to move the tractor.

Try it with several individual dollies before dismantling them for parts.

Bruce

 

[SLIMSHADIE]

All my implements are on dollies now, makes it easier to hookup, store, and clean the shop. I bought better dollies at Menards, at least the casters seem more rugged. I think 2x6 may be a little overkill. If I have to use 2 dollies for ex: snowblower, I fill in the space with 3/4" plywood or use 2-1x4 then completey cover the dollies with plywood. I even went a step farther and used 1x2 on top as a backstop to help postion the implement on the dollie. The snowblower was a little high but driving over a 2x6 helped that.

I have some pics in this thread.

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12721

 

[SLIMSHADIE]

Another thread with pics

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21524

 

[captmikem]

I built a dolly for my BH92 (1800 lbs) out of 2x6's with 2 large fixed wheels and 2 large castors I bought at HF. it worked fine except I used lag screws on the two castoring wheels, when I hit a little rock on my shop floor it pulled out the lag screws. So I have replaced them with 5/16 thru bolted carriage bolts. All is well now. and very handy!

M

 

[lordulrich]

The only one I'd be concerned about is the snow blower. I put my blower on a moving dolly, and it made it a bit harder to get the blower locked in place. I ended up picking up the implement not quite secured and pulled the dolly out then set the implement back down. I'll be trying to design a lower profile dolly when I get time.

That said the ability to get the blower into the corner for the summer is worth it. I don't generally take off the blower in the depths of winter, probably no more than 3-4 changes a year so not an frequent problem for me.

For a 3 point implement, it just moves the pins a bit higher, as long as you've got enough lift left to get the implement clear of the dolly you should be OK.

 

[Ron L4760]

I built a dolly for my BH92 (1800 lbs) out of 2x6's with 2 large fixed wheels and 2 large castors I bought at HF. it worked fine except I used lag screws on the two castoring wheels, when I hit a little rock on my shop floor it pulled out the lag screws. So I have replaced them with 5/16 thru bolted carriage bolts. All is well now. and very handy!



M

Can I trouble you for a picture of your BH92 dolly design when you have a moment? Many thanks.


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[imnukensc]

You can buy locking casters if movement becomes a problem.

 

[Cathy Liebchen]

Thinking about building some dollies for my FEL, Snow Blower and Back Blade.

My plan is to build them out of 2 x 6's and buy the cheap Harbor Freight furniture dollies and take the casters off for the dollies I'm gonna build (cheaper than buying individual casters).

My question is - how difficult is it to attach the implements when they are on dollies that may roll and shift? Don't want to waste time and money on building only to find out the implements are a pain to mount because they keep rolling around during the process.

I'm assuming I'll have to drive my BX on 2 long 2x6's beforehand to try to get the connections to line up better. Just concerned that the additional height of the casters and 1 more 2x6 messes up the geometry and makes to too difficult to get things lined up. Not as concerned with the back blade since I've got the quick hitch.

Thanks.

we have a quick hitch, so just use pallets (always available free) and no need for casters since it is so simple to attach and detach

 

[BillK01]

Well I built the back blade dolly today but only had a short amount of time play with it before our company came over for a cookout.

Not sure why but I can't seem to lower the back blade onto to dolly and lower the quick hitch enough to finalize it. When I drop the blade onto the dolly all is fine until the kickstand hits the stop pin. At that point the whole dolly tilts toward the tractor and I cannot drop the hitch low enough to pull away. It's like because of the dolly tilt something is binding that's preventing the hitch from lowering any further.

I'm hoping this was just because I was in sort of a rush to get it done before I had to fire up the grill and I just need some practice.

Any ideas what I was doing wrong?

 

[captmikem]

Can I trouble you for a picture of your BH92 dolly design when you have a moment? Many thanks.


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Happy to Ron, I am in Florida at the moment but when I return to Washington I will snap a couple of photos and send them on.

M

 

[sheepfarmer]

Well I built the back blade dolly today but only had a short amount of time play with it before our company came over for a cookout.

Not sure why but I can't seem to lower the back blade onto to dolly and lower the quick hitch enough to finalize it. When I drop the blade onto the dolly all is fine until the kickstand hits the stop pin. At that point the whole dolly tilts toward the tractor and I cannot drop the hitch low enough to pull away. It's like because of the dolly tilt something is binding that's preventing the hitch from lowering any further.

I'm hoping this was just because I was in sort of a rush to get it done before I had to fire up the grill and I just need some practice.

Any ideas what I was doing wrong?

I am not sure I am visualizing your set up correctly, but for my back blade I use 3 of the small square dollies, two under the blade and the 3d under the stand. For a landscape rake which I switch back and forth between the L tractor and a B tractor, it requires some fiddling with both the top link and the height of the stand. But I am using a Quick Hitch.

 

[Missouribound]

My plan is to build them out of 2 x 6's and buy the cheap Harbor Freight furniture dollies and take the casters off for the dollies I'm gonna build

That is the smartest way to buy casters, assuming they are a size you can use.
I just bought 4 of those dollies to use as vehicle movers for my B2320.
In the winter I keep it in the garage and I expect the dollies to be perfect to roll it away in the corner until it's needed in spring. In fact if the dollies work out well, which I expect they will I plan on buying several more for implement moving as you are doing. I have a storage shed I can't quite get into (elevated) and the dollies will make winter storage for the box blade, FEL and other implements much easier.

 

[SLIMSHADIE]

Well I built the back blade dolly today but only had a short amount of time play with it before our company came over for a cookout.

Not sure why but I can't seem to lower the back blade onto to dolly and lower the quick hitch enough to finalize it. When I drop the blade onto the dolly all is fine until the kickstand hits the stop pin. At that point the whole dolly tilts toward the tractor and I cannot drop the hitch low enough to pull away. It's like because of the dolly tilt something is binding that's preventing the hitch from lowering any further.

I'm hoping this was just because I was in sort of a rush to get it done before I had to fire up the grill and I just need some practice.

Any ideas what I was doing wrong?

Adjust your top link, too long or too short. Your setting it down on a higher elavation. My boxblade does the same thing.

 

[BillK01]

Adjust your top link, too long or too short. Your setting it down on a higher elavation. My boxblade does the same thing.

So every time I go to either put it on or take it off I'll have to screw the top link in or out to make sure the quick hitch is sitting level vertically in relation to the blade on the dolly? Then once it's attached readjust so the quick hitch and blade is level vertically (or just the quick hitch if I removed the blade).

 

[bcp]

Always pay attention to spelling. Otherwise it doesn't work very well.

Bruce

 

[conropl]

Always pay attention to spelling. Otherwise it doesn't work very well.

Bruce

That's funny.[emoji106] [emoji2]

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[Ron L4760]

Happy to Ron, I am in Florida at the moment but when I return to Washington I will snap a couple of photos and send them on.



M

10-4. Thanks My Man


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[BillK01]

Adjust your top link, too long or too short. Your setting it down on a higher elavation. My boxblade does the same thing.

That did it! Thanks for the info.

 

[SLIMSHADIE]

Bill I use my rear blade only for the snow. So who knows where my 3pt is set after the summer, when I drag it out and hook it up, I do a quick level check on concrete barely off the ground. First a side to side check, then rotate blade 90 degrees for front and back check (toplink). Dialed in and ready to plow some snow.

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