grading and leveling

[royboy42]

I'm scraping off an area and want to move the dirt to another area to fill in with a 4ft box blade and a L1500.

When i get to where i want the dirt i'm thinking just bump the TPH up a little and let the ground pull the dirt out of the blade evenly.

Problem is i can't seem to only bump the blade up a hair or two. The pump moans, groans and whines at me and then it comes up way to far before i can stop it and i end up with a pile of dirt left behind not an even stretch of dirt.

Am i going about this the wrong way or do i need more practice or is something on the tractor not working right?

Should i set the stop on the bar closer? I don't even know if that's proper terminology to convey my thoughts.

 

[stuart]

As i recall I had the same problem with the back blade on the 3 point hitch. Seems that is designed to raise and lower implements all the way, not do the kind of finesse you need. The loader controls on mine (after market) appear to have 2 'speeds' or flow rates, allowing the arms to move slowly or quickly, not so with the 3 point.

I have seen leveling done using the loader, moving in reverse. Set to a given height with the bucket pointed straight down (dump position), scrape up a 'load' of dirt, then gradually move it to the 'load' position to distribute it. This seems to be smoother than trying to raise the loader bucket a small amount.

I have been busy with other projects so have not had the chance to try these on my unit. I expect i will be back road building in about a month, will post my results then.

 

[royboy42]

Seems that is designed to raise and lower implements all the way, not do the kind of finesse you need.

That is what i was afeared of. After doing some reading (on adjusting the top link in and out to change how the blade moves over the dirt) and more importantly practicing. I've almost got the desired results. But it still ain't smooth.


Thanks Stuart.

Be sure to let us know how your road building goes.

 

[Wags]

Hope I'm not stating the obvious here but have you adjusted the rockshaft flow rate with the knob on the pump housing just infront of the seat? Turning the knob in one direction increases the lift rate and in the reverse direction it therefore decreases the lift rate down to no lift. This is how it successfully works on my L1500 with a "jab" on the control lever to raise or drop the grader blade an inch or two.

 

[royboy42]

I've adjusted the knob to control how slow it drops, but never noticed how the knob interacts with the raising of the implement.

Unless i'm misreading you. You're saying fast down will yield a slow up and a slow down will give you a fast up?

 

[royboy42]

it's got blades on both sides.

After many hours of practice and figuring the proper adjustment of the top link for the job. (If I wanna dig shorten the top link and if i wanted to smooth lengten it.) I believe i've got the hang of it. Although it would be nice to have a remote for the top link.

 

[Hari.K]

One technique using the bulldozer, or FEL , is to backdrag the blade across the area you want to smooth, with the blade just sitting loosely on the ground.
This knocks the top off of the high spots and deposits them in the holes.
Even eliminates the machine's tracks.

HariK

 

[koppel]

Hi there,

I just bought a B7100 second hand here in Oz and a 4ft box blade for it.

Need to maintain a 140m long gravel driveway that winds and slopes an average of 20 degrees.

Before buying the box blade I searched the web for attachments and came a cross a USA site that had some quite informative videos on implement use.

Their one on box blade use is quite interesting and made me go purchase one. Mind you I choose one that had CURVED replaceable cutting edges.

www.everythingattachments.com for the training vids .. see top RH side on their home page

So now I tried the grading of my drive.

1st time result was woeful as being Cat tractor trained i expected the 3 point linkage to have positive down pressure as well as positive up lift using the hydraulics.

NO stupid tractors dont have hydraulic power down on the 3 point

Sigh..

Ok second attempt was better and I am going to invest or make at least 6 things

1.. A Roll over protection frame.... before I do any more down hill work.

2.. AG or Forestry tires for my B7100, currently has turf tires

3. A damn proper ratched hand brake lever that I can work sitting normally in the seat.. A spare ships anchor was used a few times on the down hill run..

4... Hydraulic top link like

http://www.bareco.com.au/files/hydraul2001/hy22.htm

5.. Hydraulic levelling box links on the 3 point link.

http://www.bareco.com.au/files/hydraul2001/hy22a.htm

6.. 14 wheeler truck Air horns to scare of the neighbours cat that kept wandering across the drive as i approached its sleeping spot in side bushes.



so I keep you guys informed.

season greeting
David

 

[live_roll]

THe only tractors that I know of that do have down pressure on their three point hitches are Belarus. It is actually a nice feature.


Cheers

Roger

 

[Randyj]

3. A damn proper ratched hand brake lever that I can work sitting normally in the seat.. A spare ships anchor was used a few times on the down hill run..




Throw out the anchor, and hold on tight !

 

[handyman]

Koppel just noticed your post. I just bought a box blade for my B7100 hydro and when using it I use low range this lower gear holds me back quite well. I was wandering are you using a lower gear? Forgive me if im misunderstanding.You may want to try the turtle gear if hydro or lower if straight. The lower works good for me on a pretty good incline but if in high range it goes like a bat out of ---. handyman

 

[Eric McCarthy]

I'm sure now in December its a tad to late to talk about this. But for my two cents worth being a landscape contractor, pratice pratice pratice! Also the type of grading box you use make a huge differance. A box with a hinged back blade leaves the finest grade behind. I can grade dirt out as thin as a hand rake with the right kind of box blade. The trick is like I said pratice and raise the box up as you travel forward. I've been doing this for 10plus years and never get the dirt graded out perfectly on the first pass. You'll continue to move it around alot until its all spread out. I personaly move the tractor out of the way from time to time and get off of it and squat down on the ground and look at the area I'm working to see how it looks.

 

[royboy42]

It's never too late in Middle Georgia!

Thanks for the ideas Eric. I've done lots of practicing and come up with the idea that a hydralic top link would be a very helpful addition.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Why do you feel you need a hydralic top link on your tractor? Its a costly purchase and I dont have one on mine. Not saying its not a half bad idea but I'm personaly used to haveing the standard toplink. You just set the top link once and adjust to make sure the box is level to the ground and go. I dont see a real need for a hydralic top link.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Keep in mind also a tractor will not grade out dirt in perfection, nor useing a front end loader will smooth out dirt in perfection either. A tractor it just a bulk work horse to move large amounts of material faster then a shover and wheelbarrow or a hand rake. Of all the yards I've installed to get true perfection on a final grade and detail work the trusty hard rake and shovels are the only way to go. I carry several several rakes and shovles in my truck every time I load up and head out to install yards.

 

[osut362]

i have a hydro top link and side links on my tractor. as far as using the box blade, it sure made it easier. i think the hydro links were the best money i have spent.....al

 

[Eric McCarthy]

They dont make things like they used to anymore. I have an older Woods Gehl grading box that has a hinged back blade and retractabe teeth that I dont have to get off the tractor to drop. I can reach behind the seat yank on a lever and the teeth drop. Poor design on the grading boxes of today is why you all need to adjust the top links. I never have to adjust the top link ever unless Im hooking up to another impliment. Heres what a top quailty grading box looks like, I saw the previous post where someone was looking at the web site and had equipment from United but its all in what you pay for.

http://www.landpride.com/products/prod_bb/prod_mr15.html

 

[royboy42]

Why do you feel you need a hydralic top link on your tractor? Its a costly purchase and I dont have one on mine. Not saying its not a half bad idea but I'm personaly used to haveing the standard toplink. You just set the top link once and adjust to make sure the box is level to the ground and go. I dont see a real need for a hydralic top link.

When i'm digging i like to have the sharpest angle on the blade, short top link, when it comes time to level i run out the top link to tilt the front blade up and push the back one down. Just my personal preference.

 

[traildust]

When i'm digging i like to have the sharpest angle on the blade, short top link, when it comes time to level i run out the top link to tilt the front blade up and push the back one down. Just my personal preference.

I agree with RoyBoy42, there’s nothing like making that box scraper dance to your tune! I have never been without T&T and I couldn’t imagine working my dirt road without it. But I have to believe the tractor drivers that have fixed links can work there own magic.