G6200 Cylinder HEad Cracked

foxden

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Dec 19, 2012
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The 6200 started running hot the other day. After some troubleshooting figured I blew a head gasket, Yep was right. The head has cracked about 5/8 inch long
as is pitted pretty deep on the middle cylinder, i guess it must have been leaking a little before the end of mowing season and with it setting through the winter cause the pitting. New head without valves is $400. Was wondering if y'all would advise to go ahead and do a ring job also. Always ran good and uses no oil. If I decided to ring it can the pan be dropped without removing the engine?
Thanks in advance for amount help/comments.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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The 6200 started running hot the other day. After some troubleshooting figured I blew a head gasket, Yep was right. The head has cracked about 5/8 inch long
as is pitted pretty deep on the middle cylinder, i guess it must have been leaking a little before the end of mowing season and with it setting through the winter cause the pitting. New head without valves is $400. Was wondering if y'all would advise to go ahead and do a ring job also. Always ran good and uses no oil. If I decided to ring it can the pan be dropped without removing the engine?
Thanks in advance for amount help/comments.
If it's pitted too deep, a ring job is not going to do much for you, you'll need to bore or resleeve the cylinder.
Trying to do a piston remove and change with the engine in the tractor is a rough task, lining everything up laying on your back is a real workout!
If you have a fair amount of hours on the original head I would suggest a complete head with new valves.
Old valves in a new head is not a good option, too much wear.
If you do a head from Ebay, Grainfarmer, Kumar or the like, you'll need to have the valves lapped as they won't be set tight when you get them.
 
Last edited:

JeffL

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When I read foxden's post I thought he was referring to the head as pitted. However, blown head gasket/cracked head, sitting over the winter, and gravity could lead to pitting in the cylinder. Maybe the OP will report back with all damage present for clarity. Jeff
 

foxden

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The head is pitted. The cylinder are fine. No pitting or scratches on the walls. Actually they look great. Tractor has about 1200 hours of operating time. Original owner and oil changes are frequent.
Thanks
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Well it doesn't really matter if the head was pitted as it need to be replaced, with 1200 HRS and water have been introduced into the cylinder I would definitely get a complete head and not a bare head! ;)
 
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foxden

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Thanks Wolfman. Other than Kubota any suggestion where to buy a complete head. I sure hate to buy some chinese junk. New head without valves from Kubota is $400.00. I just sent an E-Mail to a friend who handles the parts dept for a Kubota dealer to get a price on new valves and all the gasket I will need.
Do you think I should put new rings in. Cylinder walls and pistons look good and and I did mic them and they are with tolerance.
Thanks
 

lugbolt

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If you didn't have any blowby and good compression pressures, there's no reason to put rings in. If you want, you can, but that means pulling the pistons out, which means removal of the oil pan which might be a bear in the frame. Or just pull the engine from the frame, then disassemble on the bench. Lots easier. Reminds me, I have a D782 out there I need to go play with. It could probably stand pistons, rings, bearings, and bore/hone. I kept it as a spare for my G1900, even though it came out of a G2160 I think it'll go right in.

Edit: it would also be advisable to check the heights of all 3 pistons at TDC on each of their respective cylinders. If the crank was big enough, and allowing coolant to enter the cylinder, there's a possibility of bent rod(s); and measuring the height of each piston will tell you if they are bent. If one's bent, it'll be lower in the cylinder at TDC than specified.