Front Loader Issues

bmarleyzq8

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Sep 29, 2015
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Sharon
Hello, I'm hoping someone can help me with an issue that I'm having. I've got an LA463 loader on an L2800. Last year when temperatures fell, the control lever for the loader "froze". If I would let the tractor idle for 30-45min, the lever would free up allowing me to operate the loader as it should. Once warmer weather hit, the issue didn't exist. Last night the tractor did this again, I lost all function except the curl up direction. I let the tractor warm up for about 30 min and I gained the loader up and loader down directions but didn't have the curl down. After 30 more min of operating the tractor, I got the curl down back.

I searched all over this forum and found several instances where folks have experienced the same issue and It sounds like there could be moisture in the control body. I assume this is the "box" that the joystick goes into? That having been said, the fix appears to be drilling a hole in a "cap" but I'm not at all sure what cap everyone's is referring to? Could some one point me to the right direction and possibly post a picture or two? Thanks!
 

85Hokie

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Before you start drilling !:);) Let one of these hydraulic gurus chime in, they can tell you exactly what/how to fix it. You are right, you have "water" in the valve body, and when it freezes it does not allow the valve to open/close.
I believe there is a way to disassemble the bottom and clean the spring and valve body.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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It's an issue with water in the detent portion of the valve, I'll elaborate a little later.
 

D2Cat

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Take a look at this thread. http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22447&highlight=loader+valve+won't+work

Look at post #6, second picture. That's the end of the valve that has moisture in it. If you remove it be aware there is a spring and 3 or 4 steel balls about 3/16" in dia. that will come out. Have you work in an area where you can capture them if you get "attacked" by surprise!

Once opened, clean and apply some lithium grease on those steel balls (they are what make your float function work).
 

lugbolt

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Take a look at this thread. http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22447&highlight=loader+valve+won't+work

Look at post #6, second picture. That's the end of the valve that has moisture in it. If you remove it be aware there is a spring and 3 or 4 steel balls about 3/16" in dia. that will come out. Have you work in an area where you can capture them if you get "attacked" by surprise!

Once opened, clean and apply some lithium grease on those steel balls (they are what make your float function work).

X2, but I don't remember the curl function of the valve having the detent. That may just be my memory, or lack of it, "working".
 

bmarleyzq8

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Sep 29, 2015
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Sharon
I would imagine if its not too much trouble it would make sense to take both apart and get the ice out as I've experienced issues with both controls. That having been said, I looked at a diagram online and it appears as though there is potentially more small peices than just the steel balls and spring that will come out, do you know if that would be the case with my loader?
 

bmarleyzq8

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Sep 29, 2015
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Sharon
It's my intention to remove these caps tonight to clean up the spring and bearings, my thoughts are that if like to drill a drain hole in each cap but fear that there would be pressurized hydro fluid in these? But based on what everyone has said that shouldn't be the case, I just want to be sure befor doing so? Also they run down hill at a diagonal, I know the holes would be best located at the very lowest point but I can see how I would ever assure that since the caps screw on and that location will change each time it's installed. Is there any reason I can't just drill in the center of the ends? Thanks again
 

D2Cat

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The cap on the valve body you remove is a cover for the end of the spool. The hydraulic oil (and pressure) is not there. O-rings keep the oil/pressure in the valve body. You will find hardware items that get moisture and eventually rust/dirt which causes the grief under the covers.
 

Tooljunkie

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Been there done that.
Socket head capscrews if i recall. Make sure you sweep floor before attacking as those litte balls like to run and hide when you drop them. There will only be balls on the one side. Drain water, dry it out and clean up rust.
A light lubing and a small hole on lowest part of cover.
Wont hurt to bag control when not in use, will keep future water out.

A heat gun on hyd control will thaw it quickly.
 
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bmarleyzq8

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Sharon
Well after tearing it down and removing the water, all seems good. It's been in the 40s today so there was no ice. The small balls stayed put in the "walls" of the cap while the springs stayed attached to the spools. So all and all it was fairly simple. The insides of the caps had a black colored water but very little to no rust was in either. I never knew that the curl side had a detent but it was apparent that it does as everything was identical in both caps? After re assembling the up/down function works flawless but the curl side works with the exception of the detent. It never had the "breaking point" like the up/down side until today. The difference is that it won't hold there. Does anyone know if this is correct or if there something I can do to make the curl float as well?
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I never knew that the curl side had a detent but it was apparent that it does as everything was identical in both caps? After re assembling the up/down function works flawless but the curl side works with the exception of the detent. It never had the "breaking point" like the up/down side until today. The difference is that it won't hold there. Does anyone know if this is correct or if there something I can do to make the curl float as well?
It's not a detent, it is a second stage,(they do look about the same) it's called fast dump, it's not supposed to lock in, so it's working fine.
Pull the caps off once a year part of service and spray some WD40 in there to ward off water.