Probably cannot do cursive....ASk him to put that in writing...and see what he says.
I suggest you foolow the mfr’s recommendations.
Front Axel Oil Change on HST
- Thread starter barncat
- Start date
In the 1980's GM had their best cars using dissimilar metals in the drive chain. It was a residential gutter contractor that pointed out their error. We are all responsible to think for ourselves and I highly regard the thoughts of this forum. These men and women own and operate equipment they paid for with their sweat and blood. They are the foundation of our society when it comes to economics and productivity. They think and they work hard. Best folks to be around, people I can trust. I don't know who created this manual but I can guess he didn't own an L3200 HST 4WD."Originally Posted by barncat View Post
.....mechanic I spoke with recommended I not change the front axle oil until 2000 hours, said it was not necessary in his opinion.
You are a grown man (I presume) so you should know about opinions....
Follow your owners manual for the change interval.
That is an interesting reference. Have you any more details about it?
(The amount of dissimilar metals in any drive-train is fairly voluminous. For example, a transmission has an aluminum housing, steel gears, bronze bushings, and steel bolts... turning a drive-shaft made of an aluminum tube with steel u-joints sitting in a cast-iron yoke.
That’s not just GM either.
THAT’S a very real probability! My grandkids are amazed when they encounter cursive and have a difficult time reading it (if able at all.)Probably cannot do cursive....
When I went to elementary school we learned “printing” in second grade, and in third grade we learned cursive. (We called it “long-hand” back then.)
We couldn’t wait to get into fourth grade because THEN we could use INK PENS! We competed with each other to become the teachers-favorite so we could be in charge of refilling the ink wells.
Then that fun was taken away from us when Schaeffer created “cartridge” fountain pens and we could end up with a blue mouth by chewing on the cartridges until they broke.
The fun was all over when cheap “ball point pens” were introduced. (Did you know that ballpoint pens are mostly made in China? ... but that Chinese mfr’s are not capable of the fine tolerances necessary to mfr’ the ball-and-sockets.... so they import the tips and complete the pens before shipping them out. And did you know that BIC, the world’s largest producer of inexpensive pens was created at the end of the WW2 by a French Baron named Bich? His family still controls the company.)
Now, back to your regular programming.....
Yep that hydraulic fluid is over filled. If you put 1 quart over what the manual lists as the capacity it is most certainly over filled. You will typically not be able to drain the fluid then put exactly the amount listed in the manual into the machine. I think the manuals list the capacity as a dry capacity Even after you drain oil there is still oil in there on the walls of the reservoir and such, and this will take away how much you can actually fill back with. If you overshot the manual by a full quart you are most certainly over filled. You will need to pop the drain plug and let it drain down some.
I will offer this, given i just did this same maintenance last week on my very similar L2501 - the level of the fluid will zip past that little glass gauge window very fast. Once you start to see the oil level at the very bottom of the glass, it takes very little after that point to shoot the level right past the glass. Im talking less than a quart and it will go from barely on the gauge to overshooting it. So you have to really watch that little window once you get a couple quarts in. Also make sure all your hydraulics are retracted. 3pt hitch is all the way down, loader arms are all curled up and down, so you dont have fluid sitting in the cylinders. Last thing I noticed that ill pass on is that it is SUPER important to be on level ground. Ive been surprised how just a very tiny incline or slight unlevel ground will make my gauge look empty sometimes. I had this happen just this weekend when out working.I was sitting on fairly flat ground, no inclines to the eye, and my gauge showed no fluid level at all. I thought wow im a little low now. I drove it back up to the garage and now it was back at halfway up the glass. Its very picky that little sight glass.
I will offer this, given i just did this same maintenance last week on my very similar L2501 - the level of the fluid will zip past that little glass gauge window very fast. Once you start to see the oil level at the very bottom of the glass, it takes very little after that point to shoot the level right past the glass. Im talking less than a quart and it will go from barely on the gauge to overshooting it. So you have to really watch that little window once you get a couple quarts in. Also make sure all your hydraulics are retracted. 3pt hitch is all the way down, loader arms are all curled up and down, so you dont have fluid sitting in the cylinders. Last thing I noticed that ill pass on is that it is SUPER important to be on level ground. Ive been surprised how just a very tiny incline or slight unlevel ground will make my gauge look empty sometimes. I had this happen just this weekend when out working.I was sitting on fairly flat ground, no inclines to the eye, and my gauge showed no fluid level at all. I thought wow im a little low now. I drove it back up to the garage and now it was back at halfway up the glass. Its very picky that little sight glass.
The trick with the sight glass is to know that the background is white. Once you get the fluid halfway up the sight glass, lock in memory the top and bottom colors. This is one of the few things where you just had to have been there to know what is going on.
anyone use a dye in the hydraulic system? I saw something recently that someone used it... Makes seeing the oil level a bit easier for us eye challenged people !!
ahhhh that's what I saw and couldn't find... thanks !!!
just dump it in I guess at any time eh
just dump it in I guess at any time eh
This is as far that I've gotten into the thread (third reply), and yes, sorry, I have to agree...
If this OP is boastful about being an "Engineer", how do you repeatedly incorrectly spell a word that should be part of your basic technical skill set!?
Re: Too Much Hydraulic Fluid
Just did the same to my 2011 L3200 HST on my first changing out of the hydraulic fluid, the amount of oil to use is 6.2 gal, I followed the regular non HST manual and used 7.2 gal. After draining some out I found the correct level for the sight glass.
As other users comment the sight glass is sensitive and it's easy to fill past it. I like my new L3901 much better as it has a dipstick for the hydraulic fluid.
Just did the same to my 2011 L3200 HST on my first changing out of the hydraulic fluid, the amount of oil to use is 6.2 gal, I followed the regular non HST manual and used 7.2 gal. After draining some out I found the correct level for the sight glass.
As other users comment the sight glass is sensitive and it's easy to fill past it. I like my new L3901 much better as it has a dipstick for the hydraulic fluid.
Re: Too Much Hydraulic Fluid
Yes I will always stress this now to new owners. That sight glass is super super sensitive. You will zoom right past it with just 1 quart. You have to put in about 4 gallons then really start watching the glass closely. It helps to have 2 people, one pouring slowly the other watching the glass. Once the fluid level shows up in the very bottom oft he sight glass, just a few ounces more and you will be shot past it.