Eyeballing a blower, will it bolt up to my 1860?

[tcrote5516]

Hey everyone,

I've been going back and forth on 3pt vs front blowers and just came across a new BX5450 blower on craigslist for a fair price. I see it setup on a BX 25 but can't seem to verify that this blower will fit my little BX1860? Do any of you know? Thanks!

 

[Grouse Feathers]

I have a BX 5455 on my BX2370 and with heavy snow it really loads up the engine. With your 13.7 PTO HP versus the my 17.7 PTO HP you will really have to go slooow at times. If it fits for a good price I would go for it as after the first pass you can control the width of cut. The BX54xx series blowers are all gear drive versus the chain drive in the older BX blowers and the housing is heavier duty.

 

[tcrote5516]

Thanks Larry,

I had the same concern with power but I've watched enough videos of BX1860's with the 50" front mount blowers to set my mind at ease. Here's one:

Wet snow: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYjLEizG9tk
Dry Snow: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ukik3XVb4po

So it seems pretty respectable and even if I have to go slow it will still be faster than the multiple passes I need to make with the back blade and the hours spent pushing banks back after multiple storms.

He's asking $2750 (dealer wants $3500) and it's only 1 year old, stored in a heated garage and has never even been mounted.

I'm going to check it out tomorrow and see if I can chew the price down a bit and come home with it. If I do, the next thread will be on how I modify a power window motor and linear actuator to operate the shoot (it's a manual shoot so that's not going to work with my cab).

 

[Grouse Feathers]

If you still need to check the fit, all you would need to take home would be the subframe and the driveshaft. I think the BX1860 is a little shorter than the BX2370 so you might have to shorten the driveshaft.

 

[tcrote5516]

Well I bought it. The owner wasn't kidding, it was still wrapped up on it's shipping crate brand spankin new in the box. I talked him down to $2,400 which is $1,100 cheaper than the dealer wanted so I'm happy with that.

I just got it home and mounted on my 1860. It mounts up as it should but Larry, you are 100% right the driveshaft is 3" too long to fit the 1860. I'm thinking about cutting the shaft, taking out 3" and welding it back up but I'm going to call the dealer first on Monday and see how bad they want to hit me for the cost of the correct driveshaft. If it's reasonable I'll buy it and make the blower easier to sell in the future since it will work for the whole BX series if I ever decide to sell it. I'm also ordering a linear actuator and a power window motor that I can fab up to control the shoot tonight.

I've been through 3 winters with a fel and 5' blade and I'm pretty excited to now have what I think is the best possible snow removal setup. Front blower, 3pt blade and a heated cab! Bring on the snow!

 

[Grouse Feathers]

That is a really good deal and well worth the occasional slow travel for heavy snow.

As the operators manual says after installing the sub frame check the T-bolts at least after the first couple of uses. (Had to replace one T-bolt)
The shear bolt for the 2nd stage fan is just a standard hardware grade 2 bolt for about $.50.
The augers take a special Kubota shear bolt.
The color code on the hydraulic connections for the snowblower is not the same as the fel. Since you only have two connections it should be easy to trace out and mark.

I use my rear blade to pull snow away from the house and garage, and it provides a good counterbalance to the blower on the front.
When blowing snow if your front wheels start pushing and will not steer, take the blower out of float and just bump it up enough to load the front tires. The blower doesn't even need to come off the ground and you will immediately have steering.

 

[1970cs]

OOPS! Don't know how I missed your original post! But as you already found out the mid pto kit was too long. You need a BX2752 $567.00 MSRP

The 18hp series is a 2.5" shorter in length.

I believe that the 1880 maybe the same size, since I heard that the loader fitment fits all 18,23 and 26 hp units.

Pat

 

[Dave_eng]

A thought that may not have any relevance to your too long drive shaft as I dont know the price and availability of the part(s) you need.

There are companies who specialize in making or modifying driveshafts and have the equipment to properly balance them once fabrication is complete.

Major users of this type of service are trucking companies who are shortening or lengthening truck frames. The "hot rod" people also make use of this type of service.

Any machinist can do the work but will lack the balancing equipment. Without proper balancing you can have severe vibration. Been there putting an MGB engine into a small British sedan. The vibration was extreme. Correct indexing of the u joints is also critical

Dave M7040

 

[BAP]

I don't know where in NH you are, but do search for driveshaft shop. Getting your shaft shortened and balanced shouldn't cost too much.

 

[D2Cat]

Around here Inland Truck does a good job with driveshaft work.

 

[tcrote5516]

Thanks guys. Kubota is insane on some of their parts pricing! I could never justify paying $560 for a 3ft driveshaft. I was at the dealer the day before yesterday to pickup all the filters and fluids for a 300hr service. I asked them about the shafts and they said "we have them in stock if you need them, don't worry their cheap". I should have known better but it's just a simple thin wall steel shaft and 2 ujoints. The part can't cost $40 to make. Hell you can buy a replacement steel driveshaft for a duramax pickup new for $110!

Pat, I'm coming up with a difference of 3.25" when measuring it not 2.5". Am I wrong or we're you just giving a rough estimate?

I was going to shorten it myself but looking at how the mid PTO output is surrounded by the HST it's not worth the risk. If it ever failed it would do serious damage not to mention the safety aspect.

We have a couple good driveline shops around so I'm going to call them tomorrow. I don't imagine it would be more than $100 to shorten this shaft and have it balanced.

 

[1970cs]

The reference is for the tractor itself.

Pat

 

[L.C. Gray]

I don't know why y'all put up with all that fluff stuff to start with....

 

[BAP]

Because snow is fun. Plus I would rather deal with cold then hot.

 

[poyjas]

What a hugely SWEET set up, I'm dyin' with envy!! ...just sayin'...

 

[tcrote5516]

So, I dropped the driveshaft off at a well known driveline shop up the street yesterday and they said they could do it no problem. I picked it up today and the grand total came to $38!!!!!!! Seriously, $38 vs Kubota's $560.

I put it on the tractor and it fit like a glove. For anyone with this problem going forward; remove exactly 3" from the longer mid PTO shaft to make it fit a smaller BX frame. This gives you the clearance needed on the telescoping end to click on the HST side but still gives you plenty of surface mating area on the hitch side once clicked in place.

I've only had experience with small walk behind blowers so seeing this run is a scary sight when operating at full tilt....that thing would make quick work of any lawn ornaments, limbs, small animals and the like.

If anyone is interested I put up a new thread in the fabrication section where I'm working on automating the shoot but thank you all for the help getting me to this point where I have a new working front blower for $2,439!

 

[RCW]

Good for you!!

Had a 47" blower on a JD425 for a long time.

I'm not a big fan of the Kubota blowers, especially the shoes, but mine has worked great over 2 bad winters!

Last winter it just sat in the garage.

I think you have the newer model with the MUCH better shoe design.

With new driveway stone, I did some mods to my shoes in another thread. Time will tell........

 

[tcrote5516]

I don't know why y'all put up with all that fluff stuff to start with....

Because once I clear the driveway I get to do this:



Faster than any jetski and you can't beat the scenery!