Driveway Grading

Grouse Feathers

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Lovells, Mi
Last year was unusually wet and our driveway never dried out enough for the grading contractor to grade and fill. There were a couple of weeks it got dry enough and then it would rain before I could get the grader here. The driveway got more rutted and potholed all summer and there was standing water nearly all summer.

I bought a BX2370 in December for snow blowing and began to read threads on driveway grading. The only grading I have on my property is the driveway and I don’t need to move a lot of material so I decided for ease of use to buy a grading scraper in the spring.

In April this year we had the typical inch or two of slop in the driveway as the snow melt was trapped on the surface by the frost still in the ground. I had bought a cheap rear blade to help with snow removal and I started using the blade to move the slop around and fill the worse holes. I also started digging pits along the driveway to drain off the water. It was slow going as the fel (with piranha) couldn’t penetrate the frost. I would scrape the surface and come back a couple of days later and scape another couple of inches. I decided I could do better with the leveling with a better rear blade and found a used Land Pride RB1560. The weight and strength of the Land Pride blade made a huge difference in my ability to grade and add some crown to the driveway.
To explain some of the conditions here the soil is defined as glacial till, that’s sand and rock. For driveway and dirt road building they add clay to the glacial till for a mix of about 10% clay. The only gravel we have is on the hill. The hill is 40 feet high and a grade as high as 9 degrees or 16%, and the gravel is stonemix, crushed limestone with the fines. The stonemix packs well and the delivery truck will make several trips over the leveled driveway to pack or some contractors use a road compaction roller. The hill is well drained and the only problem on the hill is erosion during downpours. Gullies will form even in the packed stonemix when the rain is heavy enough.

By April 22 the driveway was dry enough for serious grading; this was amazing based on the driveway conditions the previous year. My wife at this point quit referring to my tractor as a toy.:D While drying up the driveway was still a little rough, but I knew it would be difficult to to impossible to maintain the driveway with a rear blade on a BX so I bought a Land Pride Grading Scraper GS1548. Before the grading scraper the tractor bounced around on the driveway in low gear and I would have to slow down. After grading twice with the grading scraper I can run the tractor, with the GS lifted, on the driveway full speed in high gear and not bounce. With all the dips and bumps out of the driveway it is now easy to use the rear blade for crowning. I just drop the blade to the depth I want and drive the tractor, no need to constantly attend to the 3 point.:D:D
Fast forward to June and last weekend we got between 1” and 2” of rain. The rain stopped Monday night and Tuesday morning the shared roadway which I am just starting to work on had standing water plus the neighbors’ hills had gully erosion. On our driveway there was not a puddle of water and no erosion on the hill. YES SUCCESS!!!:D:D:D
Now I can work on the neighbors’ hills and the shared roadway to get them into shape. If I had only know what was possible I would have bought this tractor 7 years ago when we retired and moved up here. You don’t know what you don’t know.:confused::rolleyes::cool:
 

Bulldog

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Cool story, it's nice to see hard work pay off.

I have a problem spot in part of my driveway about like what you describe. After getting mine in shape I added a speed hump (for lack of better description) at a slight angle to cut the water off to the side. I placed it just above the spot where the water would pick up enough speed to start erosion. Only time I have problems now is if we get several inches of hard rain at once it sometimes will wash over my hump but that's rare.
 
Last edited:

RCW

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Very nice, indeed!! :)

Glad to hear it worked out as intended!:D
 

Grouse Feathers

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I think we will be getting another test tonight, they are predicting 1" to 3" over about 4 hours. That sounds like the kind of rain you have to pull over to the side of the road when driving.
 

cerlawson

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Wow. Some one who is happy with crummy BX three point controls.

With that steep a driveway, you might consider some day paving it with blacktop. I struggled for many years with steep drives and constant repairing of erosion. However, once I paved the driveway all that grief went away. You do need to have the "shoulders" properly sloped or that area will erode.
 

skeets

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I have never had an issue with the 3pt on my BX but maybe that's just me, and I would LOVE to pave my driveway, problem is I would not live long enough to pay it off :rolleyes:
 

Grouse Feathers

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Wow. Some one who is happy with crummy BX three point controls.

With that steep a driveway, you might consider some day paving it with blacktop. I struggled for many years with steep drives and constant repairing of erosion. However, once I paved the driveway all that grief went away. You do need to have the "shoulders" properly sloped or that area will erode.
I don't know about skeets, but I have an advantage when using the BX 3 point control, I have never used anything else for comparison. So again "You don't know what you don't know" and so you are happy with what you got. Last year I had nothing now I have a BX. As long as I don't borrow my friends L I may always be fat dumb and happy with my BX.

I am hoping the crown on the hill will control the erosion. I am not adverse to blacktop, but the cost of building a base in the sand would be expensive. Sloping the shoulders to control erosion might also be difficult when all you have to work with is sand.
 

lakebota

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Sand should never be used for base under asphalt that is flexible as sand will not distribute wheel loads. 6" of graded base rock is required.
An alternative to paving is cement treated base rock, or base rock with asphaltic penetration treatment (a slow cure emulsified asphalt) distributed over and allowed to penetrate and cure (break) sand can be distributed over the penetrating teatment. The problem with either is ravelling. That can be limited by putting a seal-coat (chip seal) over either after they are cured out.
As a side note, even though there is some clay in the rock surfacing on your road you can benefit by working in some portland cement (straight) into the "slop" by distributing, shallow scarifying to "work in" the cement to a depth of 4 to 6 and then final shape and compact the resultant "mix".
Once cured this resultant lean mix (aim for 4 sacks of cement per cubic yard or 10 sacks of cement for every 50' of 10' road tilled into a depth of 6" of graded rock) of material will help tie the surface together and also distribute wheel loads.
I've seen (dry) lean mix delivered in transfers or belly-dumps, graded out to a depth of 6" and then watered and rolled.
 

Daren Todd

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sand - clay :confused:
sand - clay :confused:
you are *ucked either way :eek:
It's actually scary to see what they use for road base in certain areas. In Florida, they just dig a bunch of 5 acre ponds in an area where they are building a development. All the material out of the ponds gets spread onto the job site to get the land above the water table. They use a formula with a certain amount of moisture mixed with the sand for compaction and base. Then where the roads are gonna be they do haul in some gravel for road base, but not much. Course when they build a house, they have a crew of mexicans come in, hand dig footers into the sand, plumbers and electricians lay there pipe. Then they pour a slab for the house, right onto the sand. Course then they wonder why there are cracked slabs or walls after 10 years also :rolleyes:
 

85Hokie

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I don't know about skeets, but I have an advantage when using the BX 3 point control, I have never used anything else for comparison. So again "You don't know what you don't know" and so you are happy with what you got. Last year I had nothing now I have a BX. As long as I don't borrow my friends L I may always be fat dumb and happy with my BX.

I am hoping the crown on the hill will control the erosion. I am not adverse to blacktop, but the cost of building a base in the sand would be expensive. Sloping the shoulders to control erosion might also be difficult when all you have to work with is sand.
The bx uses a 1/4" method.....somewhat more fun to manage, many higher tier tractors use position control, in other words - the BX is guess it here and bump it....where position control, place the lever at X and the rear stays....

read up on ol' Harry Ferguson - smmmmmart man - got screwed by little man FORD but he is to thank for the 3 point hydraulic rears.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harry_Ferguson

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-point_hitch
 

skeets

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Now just one cotton picken minute,,,
I may always be fat dumb and happy with my BX.
I kind of resemble that remark,,, well maybe a little more than kind of :D
 

Grouse Feathers

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Lovells, Mi
I agree the materials for country roads and driveways in Crawford County are not optimal, but they are plentiful. We have a lot of dirt roads as most of the county is state forest, national forest, or National Guard base and none of the three pay any taxes. The county grades most of the county dirt roads regularly after a light rain and that is pretty much all the maintenance they do. Now that I am grading our driveway and the shared private roadway (seven residences) they are better maintained than the county roads they connect to. Not much point in upgrading better than the county roads. While the roads can get dusty everyone’s house is along the river at the end of a long personal private driveway, no traffic past your house. Our driveway is a special case; one good neighbor who shares the driveway maintenance costs and one unfriendly neighbor who hasn’t built yet and pays nothing. The problem is the unfriendly neighbor owns almost all the land the driveway crosses, we have a right-of-way easement. He wanted us to prorate the maintenance based on usage, but still refuses to contribute. I have to maintain for my access, but I refuse to upgrade his property totally at my cost.

skeets
Re: Driveway Grading
Now just one cotton picken minute,,,
I may always be fat dumb and happy with my BX.
I kind of resemble that remark,,, well maybe a little more than kind of

I was referring to myself I guess from your respone I hit close to home.:D:D:D
 

skeets

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LMAO,,, I think the fat dumb and happy part goes for a lot of us in here :D
 

Corney

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The bx uses a 1/4" method.....somewhat more fun to manage, many higher tier tractors use position control, in other words - the BX is guess it here and bump it....where position control, place the lever at X and the rear stays....

read up on ol' Harry Ferguson - smmmmmart man - got screwed by little man FORD but he is to thank for the 3 point hydraulic rears.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harry_Ferguson

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-point_hitch
I have one of those Ferguson 3pth set ups on my Ford 8N and I am always amazed that it still works well 64 years after it was built!
 

skeets

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You got that right Larry, now if I could just get rid of the fat part:D