Does anyone know how to remove the cup holder-box on the left side of the BX23S? I can’t access the rear bolt and I can’t get the levers through the narrow slots.
Cup holder-box removal? BX23S
- Thread starter spyghost
- Start date
Are you looking to remove the entire plastic piece? If yes, on my BX, the bolt are under the fender. It's kind of a pain with the rear tire on, but doable. If I remember correctly there are bolts that run up into the handle and then maybe one or two more.
Yeah, removing the whole piece. The problem I see is the very last bolt in the rear. It***8217;s between the tank and fender. Also, the levers...how do those go through the small slots? I have looked everywhere and I can***8217;t find anything that talks/shows it
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Yea, those fasteners are not easy to get at.
The handles can be a bear to get off - I found that between wiggling and some heat from a heat gun or blow dryer, they come right off.
The handles can be a bear to get off - I found that between wiggling and some heat from a heat gun or blow dryer, they come right off.
I’m trying to remove the console. The piece that has the cup holder, storage box and power output. There are 4 bolts. One in the front, two in the sides and one in the rear. I can’t figure out how to access the one in the rear.
Fro65
Member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3301HST, LA525, BH77, LP tiller, LP grader box, LP blade, BX2380
It has been 8 months since I did it but, if I am remembering correctly, I ended up loosening the rear of the fender. Once the fender was loose, I managed to get to that last bolt by lifting up on the fender. Even with this, it still wasn't easy.
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I think that this post means you remove the plastic knobs off of the metal lever, then remove your plastic part over the metal lever.
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cliffboyer
Active member
Equipment
L3301 w/LA525 loader, G5200 mower w/RC48 deck, Kawasaki 610 Mule, DR mower
Cannot comment on cup holder, but the knob handles could be easily removed. Provided they are not glued on.
On my L3301, all those orange & yellow caps have a small hole in the top of them to purge air when installed. Simply hold an air gun over them, and as you blast in the air, pull/wiggle them off. If cold or age-hardened, warm up with hair dryer first to make pliable.
Works like a bald-headed champ!
On my L3301, all those orange & yellow caps have a small hole in the top of them to purge air when installed. Simply hold an air gun over them, and as you blast in the air, pull/wiggle them off. If cold or age-hardened, warm up with hair dryer first to make pliable.
Works like a bald-headed champ!
I'm curious as-to why the need/want to remove the glovebox.
Someone with experience using a 3D Printer could easily design something of better use for the space than what Kubota put there.
Someone with experience using a 3D Printer could easily design something of better use for the space than what Kubota put there.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
I figured it had to be some good reason. Hopefully you got the R&R sorted.
I'm still pining for someone with a 3D printer to make us something better suited that's referred to as a glovebox.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
No, I'm talking custom fit to blend into the same shape like it was a factory option. Someone with the right size 3D printer and programming (I have 3D Design experience. No printer) knowledge could make something fairly easily. Create a mold, inject, and probably make a fortune from the idea. The key is to find someone with interest who has a BX23×× to persue it.
I'll take another look. I didn't see a small hole inline with that small bolt.