On my BX2660 the hose fitting that goes into the hydraulic pump as seen from the rear of the tractor is leaking because the nut us loose. I tried to get a flare nut wrench on it and was not successful. I can get an open end wrench on it but I don't want to tighten it that way. Is there a special tool to tighten the nut on this hydraulic hose? I think it is 17MM. Thanks in advance for any suggestions
BX2660 hose from hydraulic pump, how to tighten
- Thread starter lspecht
- Start date
If you're talking about the line that runs from the pump to the back of the tractor to the other side, it may be the line itself cracked. The 50 and 60 series BX's were steel, then they replaced them to a rubber line on the later 60's and 70 series. If it is just the nut that's lose, an open end wrench will tighten it just fine, providing it's not a chinese wrench
I was able to slightly tighten the nut but I really had difficulty getting an open end wrench to the fitting. I wanted to use a flare nut wrench but there was no way to get that to the nut. Here is what I was thinking about when I posted this but I can't find the right size. I think the Kubota fitting is 17MM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Dr-O2-O...hash=item35e8bfb0c3&item=231538143427&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Dr-O2-O...hash=item35e8bfb0c3&item=231538143427&vxp=mtr
Two types of wrenches needed to work on tractor hydraulics:
1. Crowfoot flarenut wrenches driven by ratchet. Craftsman has a set for $80 or so and worth every penney.
2. Angle head 'hydraulic' or 'service' wrench as sold by namebrand mobile tool distributors like SnapOn or Mac or Cornwell (also Martin, Proto, maybe Grainger's WestWard, Blackhawk). Expensive but sometimes nothing else will do the job. Haunt your local tool-oriented pawn shops in BIG cities and might find a bargain.
You can also from large hydraulic hose shop obtain a male x female 1-inch long extension to move the hose you need to access 'out' from the hose bank. Makes all the difference instead of having to remove all the hoses to get to one.
Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn.
1. Crowfoot flarenut wrenches driven by ratchet. Craftsman has a set for $80 or so and worth every penney.
2. Angle head 'hydraulic' or 'service' wrench as sold by namebrand mobile tool distributors like SnapOn or Mac or Cornwell (also Martin, Proto, maybe Grainger's WestWard, Blackhawk). Expensive but sometimes nothing else will do the job. Haunt your local tool-oriented pawn shops in BIG cities and might find a bargain.
You can also from large hydraulic hose shop obtain a male x female 1-inch long extension to move the hose you need to access 'out' from the hose bank. Makes all the difference instead of having to remove all the hoses to get to one.
Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn.
STUBBYIE, right on! the Crowfoot flarenut wrenches worked perfectly. I knew some tool would get in that tight space and work but I just couldn't find what I needed. I was always taught to not use an open end wrench on gas and other lines. THANKS!
Glad you found the crowfoot flarenut wrenches to work for you. Handiest things to have when you really need one---not an everyday 'user' but 'tis better to be prepared.
I too was taught to not use open-end wrenches on high-pressure fittings--or gas lines where tightness was important.
But...take a look at the angle-head open end wrenches in the namebrand catalogs: instead of having a flat across the back opposite the opening, you'll see a hex-shaped area. That allows the wrench to seat down onto a hex fitting much better resulting in 'full' half grip of the fitting (as opposed to crowfoot flarenut having an even greater 5/6 or 80% 'full' wrap on the fitting).
The namebrand tool lines claim that hex-recess at the rear of the head is machine broached instead of forged---if so may contribute to it being precisely shaped to fit that hex fitting.
I invested in a set of Mac angle-heads years ago just for tractor hydraulics. I've used 'em with cheaters and (1) haven't busted one yet and (2) they haven't slipped off the fitting like a 'normal' open end wrench would.
Other than a Bigger Hammer, I couldn't do without these two type wrenches.
Please others post back your thoughts and experieces so we may all continue to learn.
I too was taught to not use open-end wrenches on high-pressure fittings--or gas lines where tightness was important.
But...take a look at the angle-head open end wrenches in the namebrand catalogs: instead of having a flat across the back opposite the opening, you'll see a hex-shaped area. That allows the wrench to seat down onto a hex fitting much better resulting in 'full' half grip of the fitting (as opposed to crowfoot flarenut having an even greater 5/6 or 80% 'full' wrap on the fitting).
The namebrand tool lines claim that hex-recess at the rear of the head is machine broached instead of forged---if so may contribute to it being precisely shaped to fit that hex fitting.
I invested in a set of Mac angle-heads years ago just for tractor hydraulics. I've used 'em with cheaters and (1) haven't busted one yet and (2) they haven't slipped off the fitting like a 'normal' open end wrench would.
Other than a Bigger Hammer, I couldn't do without these two type wrenches.
Please others post back your thoughts and experieces so we may all continue to learn.
Shadow, this is the truth, funny as it is: "...an open end wrench will tighten it just fine, providing it's not a chinese wrench."
Chinese manufacturing has no quality control. I bought a shallow well pump from a well know tool provider that sell 100% foreign "stuff". Threads would not seal the suction pipe at the pump. I used 6 min. JB Weld as a pipe sealant.
The old adage, "You get what you pay for." When you buy Chinese you get more then that----you get a headache to fix what you thought wouldn't need fixed!!
Chinese manufacturing has no quality control. I bought a shallow well pump from a well know tool provider that sell 100% foreign "stuff". Threads would not seal the suction pipe at the pump. I used 6 min. JB Weld as a pipe sealant.
The old adage, "You get what you pay for." When you buy Chinese you get more then that----you get a headache to fix what you thought wouldn't need fixed!!
Racerwannabe
New member
Equipment
B7510 w/LA302 FEL, Titan clamp-on forks & Woods BH75 with custom hydraulic thumb
Resurrecting an older post, but those ratchet driven flarenut wrenches are on sale at Sears for $40, down from $80. Just ordered up a set. Item 00942049000P
I use crowfoot more than flare nut wrenches, way more versatile.
My only flare nut wrench is 5/8"
And an 18mm i had to heat and bend.
Flare nut wrenches are not all equal. That same 18 i had to harden as it would strech as soon as i pulled on it.
My only flare nut wrench is 5/8"
And an 18mm i had to heat and bend.
Flare nut wrenches are not all equal. That same 18 i had to harden as it would strech as soon as i pulled on it.