BX22 starting problem

[Yvanblo]

First post.

I have a Kubota BX22 that was running great before winter. I store it under a fully enclosed vinyl carport in WA state. Damp, but not getting weather directly on it. I put a battery tender on it as well.

When I tried to start it last week:
1. The glow plug light did not light
2. The sound it normally makes when you turn the key to on, was not there. The sound is sort of a grumbly ticking sound, perhaps a fuel pump.
3. When I cranked it over, it tried to start, but when I let the key return to run, it dies.
4. If I hold the key to start, it will start and keep running
5. All fuses under the dash are good

Any ideas?
Thanks!

 

[Russell King]

There is a solenoid on the fuel system that has probably failed. It is called a stop solenoid and holds open to let tractor run and closes off fuel to stop the tractor running.

The solenoid has two coils in it, one to pull open and one to hold open. The pull open is powered by the key switch in the start position but then the hold is powered in the run position. Since it won’t stay running that indicates the hold coil has failed or some fuse is blown for the hold coil (which I don’t think the fuse exists).

Holding the key in start position keeps the pull open coil active allowing the fuel to flow.

I think you should be able to remove the solenoid and see its operation. Probably just need to replace it.

 

[Yvanblo]

I actually already tried replacing the stop solenoid. It still shut off when I let off on the key. Could the new one be dead?

Would a dead stop solenoid prevent the tractor from making the sound I'm used to hearing when the key is turned to on or to glow plug? I heard a youtuber call it a glow plug timer. It does sound kind of like a timer ticking.

 

[Russell King]

Well then I took a swing and missed.

The fact that the glow plugs and pump are not working may point to some control module or wiring problems.

Have you seen any evidence of rats in the storage area? I think you might want to check for evidence of damage to the tractor wiring under the hood and the dash.

You might want to get a workshop manual to help troubleshoot these problems and see what they might have in common.

 

[Yvanblo]

I appreciate your input! Thank you for responding.

Under the dash seems ok. Dusty, but no damage to wires that I could see. I did take each fuse out and wire brush the leads, and the threw some dielctric grease on there for good measure.

I did notice a plug under the dash that was not connected to anything. It's a 4 wire plug that runs all the way over to the left. I did not see anywhere that it could be connected.

I also repaired a blue wire on the right side of the engine that has a female spade connector hooked to something on the side of the engine. It was broken off, and looked like it had been that way for a while.

Rodent damage is a good call, I'll look over the rest of the tractor and see if there are any broken wires.

Thanks again.

 

[GeoHorn]

Kubota uses relays/solenoids in unexpected places (from my viewpoint) and that may be a failure-prone item in damp-storage due to connector-corrosion. A WSM with electric-schematic might be your best investment. Someone here might have a schematic they can post which may be helpful…the point being that this problem definitely points to “electric” as the issue.

 

[Yvanblo]

I appreciate the input. I'll give the thing a good look and see what I find.

Hopefully there's one that allows the engine to crank and run, but not stay running... Sigh, time to dive in.

 

[DustyRusty]

Check the fuel pump underneath the tractor. It is after the filter underneath, and there is also a filter on the engine. I would replace both filters because they might have gone bad over the winter and are not allowing enough fuel through them. If the fuel pump is working, you will hear it and if you put your fingers on it, you will feel its vibration.

 

[Yvanblo]

Ok, I got it running today. Thank you everyone for your help on this issue!

So the problem was the ignition switch was dirty. I took it apart and the contacts were heavily coated with a black film. I cleaned it off real well, and put it back together, and now my little tractor is running just right. Very please that is was a cheap fix.

I also took apart a bunch of electrical connectors, cleaned them, and then put some dielectric grease in the connection.

The stop solenoid was not bad, so now I have a spare in case it does go bad.

Now to figure out whey my gas gauge isn't working.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Now to figure out whey my gas gauge isn't working.

FUEL GAUGE!

 

[DustyRusty]

Ok, I got it running today. Thank you everyone for your help on this issue!

So the problem was the ignition switch was dirty. I took it apart and the contacts were heavily coated with a black film. I cleaned it off real well, and put it back together, and now my little tractor is running just right. Very please that is was a cheap fix.

I also took apart a bunch of electrical connectors, cleaned them, and then put some dielectric grease in the connection.

The stop solenoid was not bad, so now I have a spare in case it does go bad.

Now to figure out whey my gas gauge isn't working.

dielectric grease is an insulator. I use Vaseline when putting grease onto a contact to keep the corrosion away. On switches, I use a special electrical contact grease. It is called No-Ox-ID. It is available on eBay and Amazon.

Dielectric Grease vs Conductive Grease

.

 

[Yvanblo]

FUEL GAUGE!

...You know what I mean.

 

[Yvanblo]

dielectric grease is an insulator. I use Vaseline when putting grease onto a contact to keep the corrosion away. On switches, I use a special electrical contact grease. It is called No-Ox-ID. It is available on eBay and Amazon.

Dielectric Grease vs Conductive Grease

.

Um, thanks for the tip? I'm not too worried about which is the very best for a given application. I just want the grease to; protect the connection, provide a slight barrier to keep dust out, help maintain a good connection, and keep the connection lubed up so that I can pull them apart easier later on. I think it will be better than nothing. Plus, I don't have any vaseline on hand...

 

[Yvanblo]

Shoot, went to run my machine today, and it didn't start. I tried a few times, and then the timer sound stopped, and the charge lamp and oil pressure lamp didn't turn on when the key was turned on. The glow plug lamp still comes on, and the engine cranks and tries to start like before.

Also noticed that the hazards and turn signals stopped working at the same time.

Could a bad flasher relay cause starting problems? I hope not, as it's a $125 part. But if not, I have no idea what to look at next... especially since it was working yesterday. I started it 4 or 5 times without any issues.

 

[DustyRusty]

If you need a new ignition switch, I have one to sell. The one on my BX22 the key would fall out of and I bought a new one, but never got around to installing it. Still on the shelf.

 

[Yvanblo]

If you need a new ignition switch, I have one to sell. The one on my BX22 the key would fall out of and I bought a new one, but never got around to installing it. Still on the shelf.

I appreciate that, thank you. But as far as I know, the switch is good. I'll let you know if I find out otherwise.

 

[PaulL]

Given the switch was the problem last time, odds are that it's the problem this time too.

Unless the switch wasn't actually the problem last time, and it's just the last thing you touched before it started working. Electrical things are like that.

Seems to me that the run solenoid is still somehow the culprit. Multimeter, work out if it's getting power in the run position. If it's not, trace the wires and work out why.

 

[Yvanblo]

Hmm, well now I have no idea what was going on... I spent some time looking things over, and didn't find much that concerned me. Some dirty connections, etc. but nothing unusual for an older tractor. But then I noticed that when I use the hazards, the flasher module made some odd clicky sounds, and then the tractor would start. Then not start. I messed with the switch a bit, cleaned it up and now it runs fine... I got some gremlins hidden in there somewhere... just waiting to come out again.

The stop solenoid seems fine, and the flasher module seems... ok ish. I guess. The ignition switch tests out just fine, and gets nearly full continuity in each position, which seems normal.

We'll see how long this "fix" will last. If anyone has any other ideas, I'm all ears. For anyone else seeing similar problems, hopefully something I have said will help you.

 

[DustyRusty]

Check your ground cable connections from the battery to the frame to where it goes from there. Also, check the battery terminal connections for corrosion. Clean all electrical terminals well. I believe that it is an intermittent starter issue that is caused by either poor grounds or the cable connections themselves at the battery are faulty.