I don't know if this is proper or not, please delete if not. I have got a BF500 loader on a L2850. I guess it is but the bucket is a different number. What I would like is the dimensions of all the packings and seals in the cylinders. Just trying to save some money instead of buying oem. I know it is a 50mm ID cylinder. If not, I can take one apart and measure them. Thanks.
BF500 loader
- Thread starter Bugfry
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We tried sourcing the seals and guides aftermarket. In most cases, the Kubota kit was the same price. Sometimes not so much depending on what cylinder it was, but most of the time the OE stuff was the same price-occasionally cheaper.
Couple weeks ago I had to try to source the stuff for a loader that was on a M9000. Kubota's kit was ~$45. By time we got the stuff aftermarket, we were into it for $62 MY cost (wholesale).
Couple weeks ago I had to try to source the stuff for a loader that was on a M9000. Kubota's kit was ~$45. By time we got the stuff aftermarket, we were into it for $62 MY cost (wholesale).
North Idaho Wolfman
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I know this is a dead thread, but there isn't much out there on this loader and as a tractor owner/new member I didn't want to start a new thread right away. I just purchased the same setup and have some weeping seals. I'm having trouble seeing how these cylinders disassemble, after watching many youtube videos with spanner wrenches to remove the "glands" there doesn't seem to be anything like that on the BF500 cylinders.
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Clean the grease/dirt off the end and see if you find the eyes of a snap ring. If so, compress the two eyes, remove the ring and pull the ram out. Leave one end mounted until you have it apart and it will be easier to handle.
If no snap ring take another picture showing what IS there, and maybe the backside of the cyl (towards the engine).
If no snap ring take another picture showing what IS there, and maybe the backside of the cyl (towards the engine).
Thanks for jumping in D2Cat, After cleaning it looks like a snap ring of sorts but not flat and no tabs with holes for snap ring pliers, more like wire with a split in it, maybe meant to get behind it with a pick and work it around? It's also possible I'm being overly picky about it and shouldn't worry until it's streaming out.
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RCW
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I think D2Cat has the right idea about a clip of some sort.
This is a parts diagram for one of the boom cylinders from https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/
This is a parts diagram for one of the boom cylinders from https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/
It looks like the style where you need to remove/open the opening to the cylinder and then you take a brass punch and tap the end of that you see inwards. That will release the ring that is setting in a slot. Then pull the entire ram out.
Here's a video showing how to disassemble the cylinder. Start about 2:45 minutes.
My BF350 has the same type of gland. The above is correct, you have to push the gland inwards, remove the cir-clip and then pull the rod out. Mine took a lot of force to get the glands to move inward; when I used a punch I broke/ chipped the gland where the wiper seal goes. I modified a thick wall brass pipe to have move contact on the gland when hitting it. I was hitting it hard with a dead blow sledge hammer to get them to slowly move.
TheOldHokie
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How much is your time worth? My personal opinion is rebuilding old cylinders like those is not cost-effective. Other than the aggravation of fighting with them there is nothing special about them and a brand new cylinder is only $200 and a quick swap.
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2" bore x 18" stroke tang hydraulic cylinder 3500 PSI double-acting. Heavy-duty hydraulics, 2-year warranty, free ground Continental US shipping. Magister tang cylinders manufactured using steel piston and steel threaded gland with wear rings for long life. Welded durable mounting ends, honed...
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Dan
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Well that adds a whole new angle I suppose. Messicks has the Kubota replacement cylinder for $1,095 but being new to tractor ownership is why I came here. Local Kubota dealership has the seal kits for $150 so with that cost differential seemed like a no brainer.
TheOldHokie
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If you go that route make sure you verify all of the measurements. The cylinder I linked was chosen more or less at random.
You need to determine retracted length, stroke, and pin hole sizes of the old cylinders then match that up. The lengths don't have to be an exact match - within an inch or two should be fine. There are also other sources for cylinders.
Dan