Have a used (new to me) B7100HST with what I believe is a stuck clutch based on an older thread from 2016. Mid point PTO will not engage without grinding, and tried holding the clutch pedal down and moving the tractor with the HST and it moved. Thinking the next step is to break it apart and repair it. My question is, what parts, fluids, etc. should I have on hand in order to reduce downtime waiting on possible problems. I know it's kind of a vague question, but I'd rather take some stuff back then have to wait who knows how long to get parts. Thanks in advance.
B7100HST Stuck Clutch
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85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
There is an adjustment for the clutch - have you taken up all the slack in the linkage?
There is a WSM available for free too
http://kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/in...df&AutoIndex=ee0a37a1ed6f3fa74ae29ef5f7b51717
http://kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/in...df&AutoIndex=ee0a37a1ed6f3fa74ae29ef5f7b51717
http://kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/in...df&AutoIndex=ee0a37a1ed6f3fa74ae29ef5f7b51717
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Years ago I had a Massey TO with a stuck (pressure plate rusted to the flywheel) clutch and I wasn't about to split that so I found a stout tree, put it in 3rd (no torque multiplier) and proceeded to drive it into the trunk. When it contacted the trunk, I pushed in the clutch pedal and the same time and schazam, the clutch pressure plate broke free. After than, I always put a block of wood under the pedal to keep the clutch disengaged. Lesson learned.
torch
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
To expand on Hokie's comments, you may not have to split the tractor:
Check the lever on the left side of the case and make sure it is firmly affixed to the shaft. Check the clutch release fork for play or wear. You have to get underneath, looking up through the opening behind the bell housing to see it. Excessive wear on the fork will prevent it from fully releasing the clutch.
When I got my tractor, the clutch rod was bent and the lever had been welded to the end of the shaft. Clutch didn't quite want to release fully even after straightening the rod and adjusting it to the maximum throw possible.
When I removed it, I found the lever was not square to the shifter fork, so it was not rotating the shaft far enough when the pedal was depressed. I had to reposition it a few degrees and re-weld it.
Not the best picture, but may help visualize what I am trying to describe:
Check the lever on the left side of the case and make sure it is firmly affixed to the shaft. Check the clutch release fork for play or wear. You have to get underneath, looking up through the opening behind the bell housing to see it. Excessive wear on the fork will prevent it from fully releasing the clutch.
When I got my tractor, the clutch rod was bent and the lever had been welded to the end of the shaft. Clutch didn't quite want to release fully even after straightening the rod and adjusting it to the maximum throw possible.
When I removed it, I found the lever was not square to the shifter fork, so it was not rotating the shaft far enough when the pedal was depressed. I had to reposition it a few degrees and re-weld it.
Not the best picture, but may help visualize what I am trying to describe:
85Hokie I adjusted the linkage as much as I think was correct. If I push down on the clutch pedal like I'm trying to bottom it out, I get a lot of grinding noise. I don't know if that makes sense.
I think I understand what you're saying. It will probably make more sense when I'm actually staring at the tractor.To expand on Hokie's comments, you may not have to split the tractor:
Check the lever on the left side of the case and make sure it is firmly affixed to the shaft. Check the clutch release fork for play or wear. You have to get underneath, looking up through the opening behind the bell housing to see it. Excessive wear on the fork will prevent it from fully releasing the clutch.
When I got my tractor, the clutch rod was bent and the lever had been welded to the end of the shaft. Clutch didn't quite want to release fully even after straightening the rod and adjusting it to the maximum throw possible.
When I removed it, I found the lever was not square to the shifter fork, so it was not rotating the shaft far enough when the pedal was depressed. I had to reposition it a few degrees and re-weld it.
Not the best picture, but may help visualize what I am trying to describe:
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Just break down and split the tractor, be prepared to put in a clutch plate , pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing.
I have a Gear Drive 6100 that I just replaced all those same parts on, prices were very reasonable and it only took us about an hour to split the tractor in half! Good luck.
Whether you buy from your local dealer or online dealer, only use Kubota parts on your clutch parts. Unless you need practice separating a tractor, it nice to know when you're done...you're done! And when you're in there replace it all
North Idaho Wolfman
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Your choice, OEM is a little more money but it will last and 100% worth it!
You can get OEM parts from a local dealer or online at Coleman Equipment or Messicks.
Or you can Go on eBay or Amazon and Get aftermarket parts.
torch
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
That sounds like the throwout bearing is shot. In that case, you will have to split the tractor. To be on the safe side and fully refresh the clutch, then add 10 litres of hydraulic fluid (UDT / UDT2 compatible, not plain hydraulic fluid), an HST filter and filter screen o-rings to Wolfman's list.
If cash is more important than time, you can split it, inspect the pressure plate, friction plate (and even flywheel) and replace only what is worn. (I would replace the pilot bushing regardless) My Kubota dealer was able to get the parts from the warehouse overnight when I did mine a few weeks ago. I ordered the parts over the phone with a CC number, picked them up the next day. Cost was a little under CDN$500 after taxes for the hard parts.
Check with your own dealer for a better estimate on delivery times to minimize down-time. Because you have an HST, you can get away without a clutch while waiting for parts, although it's a bit harder on the starter motor because you will be spinning the HST pump while cranking.
If you need to use a PTO powered attachment (eg: snowblower) while waiting, don't grind the gears trying to engage the PTO. Rather, start the tractor with PTO disengaged, let the engine warm up, make sure the PTO powered attachment is not engaged with anything (eg: raise the 3ph), shut off the engine, engage the PTO lever and restart the engine. It is that much harder again on the starter motor, so this is just a temporary measure until your parts arrive.