B4200 Electrically Dead

apn73

New member

Equipment
B4200 with RC44-42 belly mower and FEL
Jul 26, 2011
27
0
1
SE VA
Hello All,
I'll just get this fact out of the way right now; I'm an idiot! Now that thats behind us, here's what happened. My wife and I were moving wood in for the winter, using our trusty B4200D to do it. On one of the many trips I jumped on, forgot where I was and just through the thing into gear without depressing the clutch. Of course it stalled and then I tried to restart it and nothing. The starter just bumped a couple of times and that was it, and now nothing electrical on the tractor works. The battery has 12.3 volts of charge, but the glow plugs aren't working, none of the lights and the starter won't even bump any more. Before I waste a lot of hours in the FSM and probing around the tractor with a multi-meter in my hand, do any of you know what the problem may be? It seems like a fuse is blown somewhere along the main feed from the battery. Any help that can be offered will be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Adam.
 

Kubota Newbie

Active member

Equipment
M4500, New Idea Cut-Ditioner, JD 14T Baler, IH "Plow Chief" plows, Oliver Rake
Dec 28, 2010
531
81
28
Mount Vernon, Ohio
The battery should probably show more than 12.3 volts, and besides, checking the static voltage at the battery with everything shut off doesn't usually tell you much.
Clean the battery connections AND the ground connection to the block. Jump it with booster cables to get it running and check your voltage again at the battery. It should be a little over 14 volts with the engine at 2/3 speed. If not, there is a charging system issue. If it is over 14 volts and the battery will still not start the tractor after running long enough to re-charge the battery then remove the battery, charge it overnight with a charger and take it to the nearest auto parts store to have it load tested.
80% chance it is a battery connection or ground strap connection problem. They show up at the most in-opportune times and kubotas seem to be especially sensitive in this area, not sure why that is.
 

apn73

New member

Equipment
B4200 with RC44-42 belly mower and FEL
Jul 26, 2011
27
0
1
SE VA
The battery should probably show more than 12.3 volts, and besides, checking the static voltage at the battery with everything shut off doesn't usually tell you much.
Clean the battery connections AND the ground connection to the block. Jump it with booster cables to get it running and check your voltage again at the battery. It should be a little over 14 volts with the engine at 2/3 speed. If not, there is a charging system issue. If it is over 14 volts and the battery will still not start the tractor after running long enough to re-charge the battery then remove the battery, charge it overnight with a charger and take it to the nearest auto parts store to have it load tested.
80% chance it is a battery connection or ground strap connection problem. They show up at the most in-opportune times and kubotas seem to be especially sensitive in this area, not sure why that is.
You were right, it was the negitive battery terminal. Not the first time that I have been caught by something simple, always over complicating the problem when I should know better. I went through the trouble shooting guide and everything was pointing to the fusible link, except that I didn't eliminate the simple things first. I assumed because the battery and terminals were brand new that they would be fine, grabbed ahold of the negitive terminal and it was sloppy loose. Tightened it up and what do you know, the little 2 cylinder fired. Thank you.
 

Kubota Newbie

Active member

Equipment
M4500, New Idea Cut-Ditioner, JD 14T Baler, IH "Plow Chief" plows, Oliver Rake
Dec 28, 2010
531
81
28
Mount Vernon, Ohio
And the most rewarding part of the story.... NOT having to spend any money on parts a month before Christmas
 

fj40dave

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
B2650, LA534, BH77, TPD35, RCF2060, BB1566, RGA1258
Sep 24, 2009
418
255
63
Yelm, WA
I was told a long time ago to always check the ground on anything electrical if it's acting up.....good advice is timeless!

:D
 

apn73

New member

Equipment
B4200 with RC44-42 belly mower and FEL
Jul 26, 2011
27
0
1
SE VA
View attachment 4409

Look for a single red wire coming off the starter that leads into a white plastic wiring plug. The plug will be situated close to the starter.

Disconnect the plug and you should be able to put the 'female' side of the plug in you hand, free of the tractor.

There will be a single 'loop' of wire on the connector and it's that wire that is considered the fuseable link you seek, grass-hopper.
Sorry to exercise you Vic, and thanks for getting back to me. I stumped the Kubota dealers here locally, the fusible link for a B4200 was not listed in the parts manual and it sounded as though the US distributor were scratching their heads a little.
 

Billzilla

New member
Dec 20, 2013
5
0
0
Gold Coast, Australia
View attachment 4409

Look for a single red wire coming off the starter that leads into a white plastic wiring plug. The plug will be situated close to the starter.

Disconnect the plug and you should be able to put the 'female' side of the plug in you hand, free of the tractor.

There will be a single 'loop' of wire on the connector and it's that wire that is considered the fuseable link you seek, grass-hopper.
*bump*

Hi guys I joined the forum just to try to find out a solution to my problem.
Looks like my fuseable link has also just failed, the problem is that I can't find it. A search brought me here, to this thread.
I have a red wire coming off the starter but it just goes into the regular wiring loom, no fuseable link to be found.
The tractor started and ran just fine a couple of days ago but when I went to start it this morning absolutely nothing happened. The battery has 12.7 volts and the terminals are nice & tight.

Any suggestions?
 

Attachments

lsmurphy

Active member

Equipment
B7001
Oct 19, 2012
1,197
5
36
Parrrottsville TN
You have three wires at your starter. One is the battery cable (large), the small wire connected to the same lug as the battery cable is the power supply to the ignition switch, the third is the 'trigger' wire to the solenoid.

Follow the red wire that supplies power to the ignition switch, see if power is delivered to the switch, if not, replace it.

You can use a 'fused link' section in the wire, or you can use a large fuse, or you can use a breaker......but the supply to the switch should be fused.
 

lsmurphy

Active member

Equipment
B7001
Oct 19, 2012
1,197
5
36
Parrrottsville TN
Also........check your GROUNDS!


People neglect ground wires.

Replace your battery cables, both of them.

Move your ground cable closer to the starter and NOT the frame where it is now located.

Add a ground wire to the dash, directly from the battery.


SOLDER your lugs to your new battery cable.....crimp-ons are JUNK!


Clean ALL of your connections...........remove dash and clean........particularly your regulator connections and ground.






You can spend three hours now and a few dollars to clean it up and make it right......or expect periodic failure.


Choice is yours.
 

Billzilla

New member
Dec 20, 2013
5
0
0
Gold Coast, Australia
You have three wires at your starter. One is the battery cable (large), the small wire connected to the same lug as the battery cable is the power supply to the ignition switch, the third is the 'trigger' wire to the solenoid.

Follow the red wire that supplies power to the ignition switch, see if power is delivered to the switch, if not, replace it.

You can use a 'fused link' section in the wire, or you can use a large fuse, or you can use a breaker......but the supply to the switch should be fused.
Okay thanks for that, seems obvious now. I'm a bit tied up for the next week or so but I'll let you guys know how it goes.




Also........check your GROUNDS!


People neglect ground wires.

Replace your battery cables, both of them.

Move your ground cable closer to the starter and NOT the frame where it is now located.

Add a ground wire to the dash, directly from the battery.


SOLDER your lugs to your new battery cable.....crimp-ons are JUNK!
I have checked the earths, they are all good.
Also a good crimp connector is better than a solder connector - It's why you never see solder joints on cars or aeroplanes as properly done they are far more reliable.
 

lsmurphy

Active member

Equipment
B7001
Oct 19, 2012
1,197
5
36
Parrrottsville TN



For the sake of others............


Everything I suggested I did to my Kubota as soon as I got it, I don't have the problems you do.

Also, I drive only Jeep, Jeep is notorious for their poor electrical systems, my Jeeps run very very well.


Take for what it's worth.
 

lsmurphy

Active member

Equipment
B7001
Oct 19, 2012
1,197
5
36
Parrrottsville TN
Problems?
Apart from having a new clutch plate fitted this is the only time in the last twenty years we've had to put a spanner on it.

Did you or did you not come here complaining of an electrical problem?

Appears you did.

And since you neglected it for twenty years.........you now have to do some maintenance.


I sense you getting smart with me.........

If you don't want to do the work necessary.......


You are not the only one here, others read also, it's time you go through your electrical system.
 

Lil Foot

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
May 19, 2011
7,287
2,240
113
Peoria, AZ
lsmurphy- You do nice work, and it appears we think alike…. your pic of the fuse block could have been taken of the fuse blocks in my Rhino or my golf cart- virtually identical, even down to the protective cap on the power lug threads.
 

Billzilla

New member
Dec 20, 2013
5
0
0
Gold Coast, Australia
Fixed it.
A bit odd - I was having another look at it just then and pulled the rubber cap back that covers the 12v terminal on the starter motor. It felt like there was something hard in it so I peeled it back even more and found a loose wire with a crimped loop on it. Held it onto the 12v terminal, hit the key and it's got power again.
The bit of thread sticking out that the wire had to attach to looks too short to fit a full-height nut, let alone a nylock, so I guess whatever was on there finally came off. No sign of it anyway.
But plenty of thread to undo the remaining nut and put all both wired under it then give it a good tighten-up.

Anyway thanks for the help, I'm off to mow the grass. :)