B3000 just died for no apparent reason

[johnjk]

Timing is everything. My son just called and said our B3200 just died and won't restart. First thing I'm gonna check is that 5A OPC fuse when I get home.

 

[johnjk]

Well, I had flashy dash lights and clicking. Fuses all checked good and no issues with any interlocks that I could find. Jumped it from my 4wheeler and it started right up. Voltage at battery while running was 13.4. Voltage right after turning off was 12.1 and within 30 seconds dropped to 10.9. Off to Rural King for a replacement battery. Installed in around 15 minutes and on to the battery tender overnight. I'll check it this evening when I get home

 

[blenderbender]

Well I've been blowing the 5 amp OPC fuse on a regular basis. Mostly after working tractor moderately hard and it usually takes a while to blow.... as in 30 minutes to an hour. This last time it just took a few minutes before it popped again. As stated previously, the seat switch is bypassed. so I can eliminate that as a source I think. I don't have a clue what to look for otherwise. I've been able to live with replacing the fuse maybe once a week but if it continues to get more frequent I know I'll get plenty annoyed. Dare I replace it with a 10 amp fuse? I'm sure I know the correct answer to that question but wondering if anyone else has swam that stream. Thanks.... Gary

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Well I've been blowing the 5 amp OPC fuse on a regular basis. Mostly after working tractor moderately hard and it usually takes a while to blow.... as in 30 minutes to an hour. This last time it just took a few minutes before it popped again. As stated previously, the seat switch is bypassed. so I can eliminate that as a source I think. I don't have a clue what to look for otherwise. I've been able to live with replacing the fuse maybe once a week but if it continues to get more frequent I know I'll get plenty annoyed. Dare I replace it with a 10 amp fuse? I'm sure I know the correct answer to that question but wondering if anyone else has swam that stream. Thanks.... Gary

A stop gap measure is to replace the fuse with a circuit breaker (you can get them where they plug right into where the fuse goes, this will also help you to isolate the issue and repair it.

 

[blenderbender]

A stop gap measure is to replace the fuse with a circuit breaker (you can get them where they plug right into where the fuse goes, this will also help you to isolate the issue and repair it.

Thanks again.... I should have re-read the old thread cause I think you pointed that out long ago and I forgot all about it.

 

[2Huskies]

Changing the fuse to a higher amperage rating does not help much, at least with my tractor. The municipality that owned mine previously must have had the same issue, as the 5 amp OPC fuse had been replaced with a 15 amp. Mine recently went from very infrequently blowing fuses to blowing them within a couple of minutes as well. I went through 9 fuses last Saturday trying to do a little bit of mowing. So I finally drug out the WSM to look up the testing procedures for the OPC circuit as well as the wiring diagram. All of the safety switches checked out except for the two PTO switches. They are supposed to read 0 ohms and infinity, depending on switch position. The 0 ohm reading was fluctuating all over the place, from 1 or 2 ohms to several hundred ohms on both switches. Ordered a couple new ones from Coleman Equipment and installed them yesterday. Tested them before installing and the 0 ohm reading was very stable at 0.2 ohms. Didn't have time yesterday to test it to see if it solved the fuse blowing problem. I plan on testing it out today. If that doesn't fix the problem, my next step will be to replace the OPC controller, but at nearly $200 for a new one, I'm hoping I don't have to!

 

[blenderbender]

Changing the fuse to a higher amperage rating does not help much, at least with my tractor. The municipality that owned mine previously must have had the same issue, as the 5 amp OPC fuse had been replaced with a 15 amp. Mine recently went from very infrequently blowing fuses to blowing them within a couple of minutes as well. I went through 9 fuses last Saturday trying to do a little bit of mowing. So I finally drug out the WSM to look up the testing procedures for the OPC circuit as well as the wiring diagram. All of the safety switches checked out except for the two PTO switches. They are supposed to read 0 ohms and infinity, depending on switch position. The 0 ohm reading was fluctuating all over the place, from 1 or 2 ohms to several hundred ohms on both switches. Ordered a couple new ones from Coleman Equipment and installed them yesterday. Tested them before installing and the 0 ohm reading was very stable at 0.2 ohms. Didn't have time yesterday to test it to see if it solved the fuse blowing problem. I plan on testing it out today. If that doesn't fix the problem, my next step will be to replace the OPC controller, but at nearly $200 for a new one, I'm hoping I don't have to!

Hey, Thanks! This might be very helpful. I'm eager to hear your findings. I'm guessing a WSM means 'workshop manual'? As I have no such thing, any idea where I might find the testing procedures for OPC circuit? I suppose local Kabota dealer might share. Thanks again!

 

[2Huskies]

Yup, WSM is Work Shop Manual. If I had an electronic version, I'd send it to you, but I've got the paper copy.

There are a total of 5 safety switches shown on the OPC circuit, as well as the key switch, stop solenoid relay, stop solenoid, battery and starter motor. The wiring diagram also shows a controller relay, but the OPC system circuit diagram does not. There are the 2 seat switches, 2 PTO switches and the HST pedal switch.

Basically, the testing procedure is to disconnect the switch wiring from the switches and test the resistance of each switch. The WSM says that all of these switches should measure either 0 ohms of resistance or infinity, depending on whether the switch is pushed or not. Depending on the resolution of your ohmmeter, the switch will not actually read 0. Mine reads 0.1-0.2, which is normal, as there is always a small amount of internal resistance in this type of switch. If they read anything else, they are defective and should be replaced. I was able to check the HST pedal switch and the seat switches while they were in the tractor, but I had to remove both PTO switches from the tractor to be able to accurately test them.

The 12v out from the 5 amp fuse runs through all of the safety switches and into the OPC controller. After studying the wiring diagram further, it appears as though the controller relay could be a possible cause, as well, even though the OPC system circuit diagram doesn't show it. The controller relay coil side is fed by a 10 amp fuse from the fuse box. When the coil is energized, the switch closes and sends 12v from the 5 amp OPC circuit through to the OPC controller.

If the PTO switches don't fix the issue, I will test the controller relay before buying the new OPC controller. The test for the relay would be to energize the coil side and test resistance across the switch side. Resistance should be 0 ohms. If not, replacement of the relay would be in order.

 

[blenderbender]

Yup, WSM is Work Shop Manual. If I had an electronic version, I'd send it to you, but I've got the paper copy.

There are a total of 5 safety switches shown on the OPC circuit, as well as the key switch, stop solenoid relay, stop solenoid, battery and starter motor. The wiring diagram also shows a controller relay, but the OPC system circuit diagram does not. There are the 2 seat switches, 2 PTO switches and the HST pedal switch.

Basically, the testing procedure is to disconnect the switch wiring from the switches and test the resistance of each switch. The WSM says that all of these switches should measure either 0 ohms of resistance or infinity, depending on whether the switch is pushed or not. Depending on the resolution of your ohmmeter, the switch will not actually read 0. Mine reads 0.1-0.2, which is normal, as there is always a small amount of internal resistance in this type of switch. If they read anything else, they are defective and should be replaced. I was able to check the HST pedal switch and the seat switches while they were in the tractor, but I had to remove both PTO switches from the tractor to be able to accurately test them.

The 12v out from the 5 amp fuse runs through all of the safety switches and into the OPC controller. After studying the wiring diagram further, it appears as though the controller relay could be a possible cause, as well, even though the OPC system circuit diagram doesn't show it. The controller relay coil side is fed by a 10 amp fuse from the fuse box. When the coil is energized, the switch closes and sends 12v from the 5 amp OPC circuit through to the OPC controller.

If the PTO switches don't fix the issue, I will test the controller relay before buying the new OPC controller. The test for the relay would be to energize the coil side and test resistance across the switch side. Resistance should be 0 ohms. If not, replacement of the relay would be in order.

Thanks for all that info.... should be helpful.... will wait for the next fuse to blow before following up.

 

[Blkvoodoo]

Ive been experiencing this same recently on my B2400, no "brain" per se but looking at WSM it s the 5a fuse that powers the injection pump run solenoid.
I found the back cover of the solenoid pushed out, maneuvered the wires around. Replaced the 5a fuse and it runs....for awhile then blows again.

First time after it happened i was waiting on payday to order new solenoid, but ended up in the hospital that week (gallbladder 2.5 weeks ago)

Forgot all about it til last weekend when i went to mow again and had to replace the fuse to get it to stay running. mowed for about 45min and it blew again. then started raining (again) before i could get out to get another fuse in it.
And again gotta wait for upcoming payday to order the solenoid.....

its rained EVERY.DAY. since last weekend, supposed to rain again tonight.
i did notice the solenoid is abnormally hot after about 15min of run time today, when it blew the fuse again.....

circuit in WSM shows power from starter while cranking the run thru key, in my case the run circuit is 5a that keeps blowing. it'll start and run for a few seconds when attempting to start, then die.

Machines are aggravating !!!

 

[2Huskies]

Amen, Blkvoodoo! And the more computers and electronics they stuff into machines, the more aggravating they seem to get! I'd be happy to take some of your rain, as we have been pretty dry here.

The new PTO switches did not solve my fuse issue. I didn't really hold out a lot of hope that they would, but they didn't test within specifications so it was something to eliminate as a cause. I tested all the relays and the key switch. Everything checks out within the WSM specifications, so unless there's an intermittent short in one of the 3 switches I didn't replace or in the wiring for one of the switches, I'm pretty much down to replacing the OPC controller. I'll do a little more poking around with the wiring, but will most likely end up ordering a new OPC controller tomorrow.

 

[2Huskies]

So I ordered a replacement OPC controller that arrived today. Installed the controller, buttoned the tractor back up, fired it up and set out to mow. Mowed maybe 2/3 of the way down my 1/2 mile driveway, and the tractor died. Got out, checked the OPC fuse and found it blown, so clearly the controller was not the issue. I replaced the fuse, started it back up, went 5 feet and the fuse blew again. Ran out of 5 amp fuses in the tractor, so I put in a 10 amp to get it back up to the garage. Decided to bypass both the seat switch and the HST pedal switch, as I already replaced the PTO switches. I'm the only one that drives the tractor, so I don't have an issue bypassing a safety temporarily for troubleshooting purposes, as long as it doesn't pose an immediate threat to my own safety. I replaced the 10 amp fuse with another 5 amp, fired the tractor back up and went back to attempt to mow again. I ended up mowing for several hours with absolutely no fuse issues. At this point, my guess on the cause of the problem is that there is an intermittent short to ground inside the HST pedal switch. The resistance checks out fine, but resistance testing wouldn't necessarily show an intermittent short. As the seat switch is plastic, and therefore isolated from ground, I don't think it's likely that one, but I'm going to hook the seat switch back up to eliminate it as a cause. The HST switch is metal and is connected to the metal frame of the tractor, making it much more likely to be the culprit. If it continues to run fine after reconnecting the seat switch, I'll be ordering a replacement HST pedal switch. I'll also likely reinstall the old OPC controller, as there's likely nothing wrong with it. Unfortunately, I can't return the OPC controller, as it's an electrical part.

 

[blenderbender]

Wow.... you certainly are having to run the entire gamut. I am grateful you are sharing your experiences in such detail. It's going to make mine much less painful. I'm guessing mine is going to be the pedal switch also. My brother has same tractor and was plagued with same issue(s). The local Kubota dealer must have jumped through all the same hoops as you but I never heard any specifics as I recall. All I remember is that it went back about three times before it was fixed. Certainly hope the pedal switch finally solves your problems. Thanks again!

 

[Blkvoodoo]

so my own junk is up and running now, received the new solenoid from Messicks yesterday

popped the old one out, the wires where they come together into the case seem to be some what melted. the rear cover had been pushed off somehow.



installed the new solenoid, replaced 5a fuse and started her up. then proceeded to mow 10” high grass on average for the next hour or so. no issues, ran well

i’m not familiar with the B3000 and it’s innner workings, but over time have learned that things are not always what they seem.

hope this helps

 

[radair]

I've been having the same problem while snowblowing this morning. Thanks to you guys I found the blown OPC fuse. The problem I'm having now is I replace the fuse and the tractor starts right up, but as soon as I push on the HST pedal the fuse blows and it dies.

I ran out of 5a fuses so put in a 10a and had the same result. It seems like it's a safety switch so I tried jumping the seat switch with a short piece of wire to no avail. I'm guessing there's another switch associated with the PTO that might be the culprit. There's a Kubota dealer just a couple miles away so I'm going to get more fuses and see if they have any ideas.

 

[Henro]

If the issue is a safety switch, I would suspect the safety switch on the directional pedal as going to ground (and blowing the fuse) when you move the pedal off mid position...

 

[radair]

Thanks Henro, that's what the guy at the dealership said too. It's probably the one on the pedal on the right side of the tranny.

 

[2Huskies]

You are correct, it is the one on the right side. Very likely that this is your issue, but you can test it if you want with an ohmmeter. Just pull the switch off the tractor first, so you can depress the switch plunger by hand. Shouldn't be any continuity between the terminals and the metal casing of the switch in any position of the plunger. I needlessly replaced the $200 OPC controller on my B3000 because I left the HST switch on the tractor and used the pedal when testing the switch. Didn't show as bad until I took it off and tested it by hand.

 

[radair]

Thanks! I crawled under and found the pedal switch and pressed the plunger with my thumb. The spring action felt a little crunchy so I cycled it a bunch of times and tried it again. This time all was working and no blown fuse, yay!

Thanks again for your help! I'm happy it happened right in my dooryard and not out at the road 1/4 mile away.

 

[Henro]

Thanks! I crawled under and found the pedal switch and pressed the plunger with my thumb. The spring action felt a little crunchy so I cycled it a bunch of times and tried it again. This time all was working and no blown fuse, yay!

Thanks again for your help! I'm happy it happened right in my dooryard and not out at the road 1/4 mile away.

Time to order a new switch.

It will very likely fail again just when you do not want it to. Of course, in an emergency you could eliminate the switch, but that may not be the greatest idea...