In the market for a back blade for my B2650. I would like to get a 72" Land Pride with shoes. Question is this a good setup for my tractor or should I go with a 60" blade. This is my first "orange" tractor as I have been using a 9N Ford for 35 years. My son thought it was time for me to have all the modern conveniences.. This will be used mostly for moving snow in northern Illinois. Any ideas would be appreciated.
B2650 Blade
- Thread starter garciajoe
- Start date
Joe, and this is just me, but were I you I would opt for a pusher blade. I k now lost of guys, my self included, have back blades. I use it for weight in the winter when pushing with the front blade and for cleaning up the drive way in the spring. I have use it to move snow, but not really impressed, for me at least, anything over 6 inches of wet snow and its useless,,, but it might be I don't know how to use it right,, just MHO and welcome to the orange
You might be surprised how many uses you can find for a rear blade in addition to moving snow---depending on your local living environment and what you do otherwise on your place and with the machine.
If you do go with a rear blade, get a quality model that is well constructed, not lightweight.
The thing we use is a 72-inch Servis (sp?) by Alamo probably from the '80's that along with the characteristics noted next also has a replaceable cutting edge. All things to consider.
I haven't been in the market for a rear blade in a number of years and haven't paid that much attention to what's available, but...
Ours has three features that make it more useful than 'straight' rear blades:
There is a swivel plate right between the 3-point lift pins that by pulling a vertical pin allows the entire blade boom assembly and blade to swivel something like 60-degrees toward each rear tire.
Then to top that, another swivel plate where the blade itself attaches to the boom allows the blade by itself to completely rotate about a vertical 2-inch center pin.
And further, the blade swivels vertically such that each side of the blade can be raised or lowered.
The angle of attack ('soil engagement') of the blade can be adjusted by changing the top-link setting of the 3-point.
And using the tractor's right-rear lift-arm screw-link adjustment, one side of the blade can be dropped even lower.
Think of it as a poor-man's 6-way that just requires manual setting.
The end result is that the cutting edge of the blade can be oriented just about anywhere you want it to one side or backwards.
Examples: cleaning a ditch can be done by angling the blade way over to one side and canting the blade down to match the ditch angle and angled in such way to throw spoil up onto the road, just like a maintainer. Once set, a slow drive along the road surface and you can clean ditches by the mile before lunch.
Backfilling a trench is dirt-simple by setting the blade angle so the tractor stays out of the spoil line and you just drive along, funneling the material back into the ditch. Faster than back-n-forthing with a hydrostat loader and a nice clean job. And in good soil you can set an angle that you can cut a pretty good shallow trench even though it may take a pass or three.
If you don't have a backhoe you can with this blade described angle one corner down and at such angle you can flip pretty good size rocks out of soft soil. No rear blade is going to engage hardpan without additional weight or ripping first.
Can't help much with an example involving snow. Rarely do we get enough to worry about and if we do we just stay put or engage 4-wheel warp drive to move around.
The only other insight is that every month or so walk your equipment line stored out by the fence with a squirt can of cheap used oil. Squirt everything that moves or swivels or rotates and pins and sleeves and bushings. I once didn't do this and when picked up the blade found it wouldn't angle like I wanted it to. Had to hang a big cresent on the end of the blade and use a cheater to start things moving. Oiling helps.
Please post back with your experiences and decision(s) so we can all learn.
If you do go with a rear blade, get a quality model that is well constructed, not lightweight.
The thing we use is a 72-inch Servis (sp?) by Alamo probably from the '80's that along with the characteristics noted next also has a replaceable cutting edge. All things to consider.
I haven't been in the market for a rear blade in a number of years and haven't paid that much attention to what's available, but...
Ours has three features that make it more useful than 'straight' rear blades:
There is a swivel plate right between the 3-point lift pins that by pulling a vertical pin allows the entire blade boom assembly and blade to swivel something like 60-degrees toward each rear tire.
Then to top that, another swivel plate where the blade itself attaches to the boom allows the blade by itself to completely rotate about a vertical 2-inch center pin.
And further, the blade swivels vertically such that each side of the blade can be raised or lowered.
The angle of attack ('soil engagement') of the blade can be adjusted by changing the top-link setting of the 3-point.
And using the tractor's right-rear lift-arm screw-link adjustment, one side of the blade can be dropped even lower.
Think of it as a poor-man's 6-way that just requires manual setting.
The end result is that the cutting edge of the blade can be oriented just about anywhere you want it to one side or backwards.
Examples: cleaning a ditch can be done by angling the blade way over to one side and canting the blade down to match the ditch angle and angled in such way to throw spoil up onto the road, just like a maintainer. Once set, a slow drive along the road surface and you can clean ditches by the mile before lunch.
Backfilling a trench is dirt-simple by setting the blade angle so the tractor stays out of the spoil line and you just drive along, funneling the material back into the ditch. Faster than back-n-forthing with a hydrostat loader and a nice clean job. And in good soil you can set an angle that you can cut a pretty good shallow trench even though it may take a pass or three.
If you don't have a backhoe you can with this blade described angle one corner down and at such angle you can flip pretty good size rocks out of soft soil. No rear blade is going to engage hardpan without additional weight or ripping first.
Can't help much with an example involving snow. Rarely do we get enough to worry about and if we do we just stay put or engage 4-wheel warp drive to move around.
The only other insight is that every month or so walk your equipment line stored out by the fence with a squirt can of cheap used oil. Squirt everything that moves or swivels or rotates and pins and sleeves and bushings. I once didn't do this and when picked up the blade found it wouldn't angle like I wanted it to. Had to hang a big cresent on the end of the blade and use a cheater to start things moving. Oiling helps.
Please post back with your experiences and decision(s) so we can all learn.
Thanks for the last reply! Very informative
I am not sure if I should buy the 72 inch or 60 inch model...
Thinking of mainly levelling my road however re might use on some trails so I was thinking smaller is better... What do you think?
I am not sure if I should buy the 72 inch or 60 inch model...
Thinking of mainly levelling my road however re might use on some trails so I was thinking smaller is better... What do you think?
If you get up to MI I have a Land Pride RB 1672 for sale. Less than 2 years old with skid shoes.
Bought a larger tractor and need a wider blade to clear tires.
In snow I use the rear blade more than the front snow plow.
It just seems easier to use. Mainly driving forward and with blade angled.
Bought a larger tractor and need a wider blade to clear tires.
In snow I use the rear blade more than the front snow plow.
It just seems easier to use. Mainly driving forward and with blade angled.
That all angle set of features that Stubbyie describes is on the plow I bought. Fabulous. I got that model first because it has big pins to change the positions on those rotating plates. Apparently some cheaper lighter back blades have to be reangled by removing bolts, not my idea of fun in the snow. I don't know if it is supposed to be used this way, but the horses had packed the snow into a thick layer of ice in front of a run in shed and ice melt off the roof was starting to run in to the automatic waterer and the shed. A flat blade did nothing, and in pretractor days required a pick axe to make a trench in the ice. But I thought gee the corner of this blade looks really sharp so I tilted it so the tip dug into the ice and dug several 4 inch deep grooves to channel the water off. Problem solved.
and the shed. A flat blade did nothing, and in pretractor days required a pick axe to make a trench in the ice. But I thought gee the corner of this blade looks really sharp so I tilted it so the tip dug into the ice and dug several 4 inch deep grooves to channel the water off. Problem solved.I'm in near Kansas City and have a b2650. I'm pulling a 60" blade for snow and think it would handle a 72 for snow ok. However, I wouldn't pull a 72 inch in wet dirt or gravel.