Axle shaft wheel spacing pin hole on axle shaft out of round

[FrankBaggs1]

Hello to all and special thanks to those who shared their knowledge with me when it came to changing the right rear leaking wheel seal on my B2100, especially North Idaho Wolfman. I finally completed the job and no leaks!
This is what's great about this forum having access to those with first hand experience who are so willing to share.....
Greatly appreciated!
My concern now is the pin holes on the axle shaft. As the attached pic shows the oblong pin hole on the shaft is where my wheel was mounted which left the end of the shaft flush with the outside wheel hub when mounted. My question is,
Can I safely mount the wheel further out on the shaft to avoid this hole and use the next pin hole outward thus obtaining a wider rear wheel stance or should I move the wheels back inward??? If I move the wheels further outward on the shaft then the end of the shaft will not be flush with the hub and just not sure if that would be safe. I guess the main question is, how far can the wheels be moved outward safely???
The cost of a new axle shaft at the dealership is astronomical at $515.00 so that's not an option!
Thank you much in advance and any response will be appreciated!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[85Hokie]

Can I safely mount the wheel further out on the shaft to avoid this hole and use the next pin hole outward thus obtaining a wider rear wheel stance or should I move the wheels back inward???

ABSOLUTELY !!! MIGHT BE THE BEST THING TO DO TOO!

If I move the wheels further outward on the shaft then the end of the shaft will not be flush with the hub and just not sure if that would be safe.

THAT LAST HOLE WAS PLACED THERE FOR THAT VERY REASON ! DONT WORRY ABOUT THE FLUSHNESS (I AM ASSUMING THAT IT IS RECESSED....LESS THAN 1/2"?), AS LONG AS THE AXLE IS IN THE HUB AND HOLES LINED UP - YOU ARE FINE

NOTICE THE FIRST HOLE ALSO HAS WEAR TOO.

I guess the main question is, how far can the wheels be moved outward safely???

FARMERS HAD ROWS THEY WISHED TO STAY BETWEEN, THUS THE SETTING OF THE FRONTS AND REARS WIDER OR NARROWER - IN YOUR CASE- WIDER IS THE BEST, UNLESS YOU HAVE NARROW PLACES YOU NEED TO GET THROUGH. A WIDER STANCE WILL BE FELT IN THE SEAT OF YOUR PANTS - IF/WHEN YOU ARE ON ANY HILLSIDE.

CHECK THE TENSION OF THE HUBS ON THE AXLE WHEN RE-APPLYING THEM TOO.

The cost of a new axle shaft at the dealership is astronomical at $515.00 so that's not an option! I WOULD NOT EVEN CONSIDER THIS AS AN OPTION

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Show a picture of the hubs, I have a feeling that you have the old style of hubs.
New hubs will keep that from happening.
The holes are there for a set point only they are not meant to hold the hub in place.
Egging of the holes (and huge wear on the axle shaft behind the egged holes ) tells me the hubs are not tight.

 

[85Hokie]

here is a picture of what I was trying to explain, and as I said - the hubs are possibly loose on the axle to cause that stress.

Notice the axle in the picture is recessed about 3/8" or so, this is in the last hole to the outside of the axle that makes it "flush". The allows the widest stance for the rear. This is a B7100 - a little different than your B2100, but similar.

You have another hole between 2 and 3, the outside hole may place you toooo far out there!

 

[FrankBaggs1]

here is a picture of what I was trying to explain, and as I said - the hubs are possibly loose on the axle to cause that stress.

Notice the axle in the picture is recessed about 3/8" or so, this is in the last hole to the outside of the axle that makes it "flush". The allows the widest stance for the rear. This is a B7100 - a little different than your B2100, but similar.

You have another hole between 2 and 3, the outside hole may place you toooo far out there!

Well thanks 85 Howie that's good to know and I sure appreciate that info. Thanks to you also NI wolfman.
So I now I'm thinking I might have a bad hub on the right wheel I'm working on . As you stated Wolfman it's looking like I have the old style hub on the right wheel (first pic) and the left wheel hub diffinately looks different and newer (second) pic! Those hubs aren't cheap iether.
AsI recall I believe that I was once quoted a price of $210.00 for a new hub at the dealership!!!
Oh well, can't afford to replace that just yet so I'll move it outward and try to snug it up the best I can at the specified tork.
Once again, thank you much!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[FrankBaggs1]

Well thanks 85 Howie that's good to know and I sure appreciate that info. Thanks to you also NI wolfman.
So I now I'm thinking I might have a bad hub on the right wheel I'm working on . As you stated Wolfman it's looking like I have the old style hub on the right wheel (first pic) and the left wheel hub diffinately looks different and newer (second) pic! Those hubs aren't cheap iether.
AsI recall I believe that I was once quoted a price of $210.00 for a new hub at the dealership!!!
Oh well, can't afford to replace that just yet so I'll move it outward and try to snug it up the best I can at the specified tork.
Once again, thank you much!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Thanks 85 Hokie (not Howie)
Damn spell check !

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Those are new style hubs, just different from one to the other.
You pulled the bolt out didn't you?
Not the little pin but the bigger bolt that goes through the lock?
Also pull the lock out and clean all around and grease it, as the lock needs to move freely to make it work properly.
And you can get new hubs for cheaper:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/H6640-17300...%3Ae5d5ae5c15e0aa12ab1fa67bfffcc504%7Ciid%3A1

 

[FrankBaggs1]

Those are new style hubs, just different from one to the other.
You pulled the bolt out didn't you?
Not the little pin but the bigger bolt that goes through the lock?
Also pull the lock out and clean all around and grease it, as the lock needs to move freely to make it work properly.
And you can get new hubs for cheaper:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/H6640-17300...%3Ae5d5ae5c15e0aa12ab1fa67bfffcc504%7Ciid%3A1

Well thanks Wolfman! So they're both the new style hub therefore I shouldn't need to replace the hub.
Thanks for the link to find them cheaper as well.
Yes, I did pull the bolt out and the pin as well. I realize I didnt have to pull the bolt completely out to remove the wheel but the bolt did have to be loosened to remove the wheel correct??? I never did check my WSM prior to removing the wheel but should have.
Also, you stated that the lock needs to move freely in order to work properly! How does the lock actually work and how does it move freely if I tork the bolt to specs?
Again , thank you

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[85Hokie]

Well thanks Wolfman! So they're both the new style hub therefore I shouldn't need to replace the hub.
Thanks for the link to find them cheaper as well.
Yes, I did pull the bolt out and the pin as well. I realize I didnt have to pull the bolt completely out to remove the wheel but the bolt did have to be loosened to remove the wheel correct??? I never did check my WSM prior to removing the wheel but should have.
Also, you stated that the lock needs to move freely in order to work properly! How does the lock actually work and how does it move freely if I tork the bolt to specs?
Again , thank you

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

The lock binds to the axle, like a friction fit once tight. If for whatever reason, the large pin does not slide well, it will never get "tight" - so, by greasing it up and making sure it slides and binds, it will get tight when you apply the "grunt and half" torque.

I am sure you know the little "pin" is a safety thing, when all else fails, the rim WILL stay on the axle!

Here is picture of what I am describing and basically how it works.

 

[FrankBaggs1]

The lock binds to the axle, like a friction fit once tight. If for whatever reason, the large pin does not slide well, it will never get "tight" - so, by greasing it up and making sure it slides and binds, it will get tight when you apply the "grunt and half" torque.

I am sure you know the little "pin" is a safety thing, when all else fails, the rim WILL stay on the axle!

Here is picture of what I am describing and basically how it works.

Ok..very good now I understand!
Once again, thanks Wolfman for your time and and quick responses.
Very much appreciated!
As I've stated in previous posts,
I've always been mechanically inclined when it came to cars, trucks and smaller lawn and garden tractors .However, this is my first "real" tractor and I've been enjoying the so called learning curve aside from the obvious cost $$$[emoji106]
I love this machine!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Lil Foot]

Wow, that new design is way better than the old style!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Wow, that new design is way better than the old style!

Yes it is!
It locks the hub to the axle real tight!

 

[FrankBaggs1]

Yes it is!
It locks the hub to the axle real tight!

Back again Wolfman,
After cleaning the right wheel hub locks and bolt with kerosene and further inspection I'm wondering if this hub is one of the newer ones or possibly not???
The two locks seem to show extreme signs of ware and the threads on the bolt seem to be worn as well. Just wondering if I should replace these locks ( referred to as cotters...on the parts diagram) and the bolt as well? See attached pics

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[85Hokie]

Not sure I would replace the wedges(cotters)....BUT I would replace the BOLTS and NUTS for sure.

The worn spots on the wedges are typical, the threads on the bolts are not - so get a new bolt and nut, and depending on size - get them cheaper somewhere else!

A grade 5 bolt would be excellent there.

All of you wear on the safety pin hole is from that bolt being "stripped" to the point were it cannot hold firm and the pin allowed to rock back and forth.

You have tractor supply around? Or another Ag supply house? Those two sets should cost no more than $5 for a grade 5 or so.

 

[RCW]

You have tractor supply around? Or another Ag supply house? Those two sets should cost no more than $5 for a grade 5 or so.

My though as well. Bet you won't have $3 tied up in a new set.

In fact - I might go grade 8 for $5......

 

[FrankBaggs1]

My though as well. Bet you won't have $3 tied up in a new set.

In fact - I might go grade 8 for $5......

Well thanks fellows...
Great to now.
I actually just got off the phone with the dealer and they said they have the cotters in Stock for $28.00 and the bolt and nut for $10.95 ![emoji107]
$$$$unbelievable!!!
Now when your referring to purchasing both pieces at Tractor Supply do you mean the cotters and the bolt and not for that price or just the bolt? Also, the bolt I pulled is a grade 7 therfore your saying a grade 8 would be stronger????
Thanks much!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[FrankBaggs1]

Well thanks fellows...
Great to now.
I actually just got off the phone with the dealer and they said they have the cotters in Stock for $28.00 and the bolt and nut for $10.95 ![emoji107]
$$$$unbelievable!!!
Now when your referring to purchasing both pieces at Tractor Supply do you mean the cotters and the bolt and not for that price or just the bolt? Also, the bolt I pulled is a grade 7 therfore your saying a grade 8 would be stronger????
Thanks much!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Actually you referred to ....
Sets not pieces???

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[RCW]

TSC sells Grades 2, 5 and 8 bolts by the pound, along with flat and lock washers, and nuts. Think gr. 5 is $2.89 or so/lb., 8 is $3.89 or so.

Throw them all in a plastic bag, and weigh at the register.....

Grade 8 is harder. Bet a set would be ~ $5 all in, at about half-pound each bolt/washer/nut.

Not sure I would replace the cotters, either.

 

[85Hokie]

TSC sells Grades 2, 5 and 8 bolts by the pound, along with flat and lock washers, and nuts. Think gr. 5 is $2.89 or so/lb., 8 is $3.89 or so.

Throw them all in a plastic bag, and weigh at the register.....

Grade 8 is harder. Bet a set would be ~ $5 all in, at about half-pound each bolt/washer/nut.

Exacttttlllllly what I was thinking!!!! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

A grade 5 will never break - and a grade 8 will never break either.....assuming that they ARE graded as the stamp on the head indicates.

 

[FrankBaggs1]

Exacttttlllllly what I was thinking!!!! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

A grade 5 will never break - and a grade 8 will never break either.....assuming that they ARE graded as the stamp on the head indicates.

Wow that is absolutely terrific guys!
You've just saved me a 50 mile trip to the dealer but most importantly $$$ Thank you much!
I actually have a TSC 2 miles up the road![emoji106] [emoji106] [emoji106]
Once again, thanks!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk